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how helpful is a electronic diagnosing unit in determing vehicle issues?

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http://www.amazon.com/Black-De...&qid=1252456825&sr=8-1


something like that

I have a 1996 Saturn and a 2002 chevy that I do my own repairs on, but I don't have one of these tools!

Saturn is really bothering me, it has a relatively high idle but I can get it to start and idle after 1st startup if I keep my foot lightly on the gas and keep it at 1000RPM for a few minutes.

After that, I can let my foot off the gas and I'm good to go. Some slight hesitation if I try to floor it but otherwise the power is excellent.

Park car, turn off. Then try to restart, it's IMPOSSIBLE to get it to idle, even if I have my foot on the floor w/ 1000RPM for several minutes. Iknow thats horrible for the engine so I don't do it often.

Anyway, I'm pretty damn sure its a sensor problem but which one baffles me and I want to save time and $ by replacing only whats broken.



Question: Any of you have experiencing using these automotive tools linked above in trying to diagnose sensor problems?
 
SparkyJJO

SparkyJJO

Lifer
Is the check engine light on? You can go to advance auto or autozone and they'll scan it for free.

*EDIT* Timewarp, dumb fusetalk. OP is below.
 
Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Is the check engine light on? You can go to advance auto or autozone and they'll scan it for free.

*EDIT* Timewarp, dumb fusetalk. OP is below.
Click to expand...

no! that's what kills me

No check engine light on.

I suppose it could be a vacuum leak.

So basically these things are useless unless your check engine light is running? Your engine doesn't report minor malfunctions?

I think I sound kind of like an idiot now
 
Well you can still get it scanned. I mean heck, maybe the darn bulb is burned out, it was on my old car 😛

Codes can still be stored without turning on the light as well.

What you issue sounds like though is maybe a throttle position sensor issue, or the idle air control valve is all dirty/sticking. Two things you could check.
 
Have you changed the ECTS to a brass tipped one? The old resin based ones are prone to cracking and can cause a ton of issues. Original fuel filter?
 
Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Well you can still get it scanned. I mean heck, maybe the darn bulb is burned out, it was on my old car 😛

Codes can still be stored without turning on the light as well.

What you issue sounds like though is maybe a throttle position sensor issue, or the idle air control valve is all dirty/sticking. Two things you could check.
Click to expand...


It baffles me, but its not my main ride which is why I'm waiting on taking it to a shop if needed.


I mean, it has the same symptoms as a TPS issue or IAC valve but why would the engine run fine only after having my foot on the gas a little bit, but then be a #@%! to start immediately after it is shut off?

$EDIT

forgot to mention when I try to restart it the 2nd time it EXPLODES greyish gassy smelling stuff out the tailpipe.

Maybe a fuel issue ?
 
Originally posted by: mizzou
Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Is the check engine light on? You can go to advance auto or autozone and they'll scan it for free.

*EDIT* Timewarp, dumb fusetalk. OP is below.
Click to expand...

no! that's what kills me

No check engine light on.

I suppose it could be a vacuum leak.

So basically these things are useless unless your check engine light is running? Your engine doesn't report minor malfunctions?

I think I sound kind of like an idiot now
Click to expand...

The CEL doesn't have to be on to query some other information. However, not all units will let you monitor values.

The unit I use will show you the throttle position, MAF or MAP values, etc. The throttle position alone can help you see if the TPS is busted.

Depending on your car and scan gauge, the following parameters can be queried:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs
 
I think I'm going to change the ECTS sensor and the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold to see if that helps my situation. Will only cost 50 bucks or so total
 
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