How do you remove a stuck bolt?

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alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,769
19
81
Originally posted by: 1prophet
Originally posted by: DougK62
So this bolt that I need to remove isn't budging. I have access to both sides of it - the head and the threaded end. You're supposed to just whack the threaded end and it pops out, but this guy is REALLY seized in there. I've been working on it for hours. I drench it in penetrating oil. I heat it with a torch, I cool it, I beat on it some more. What else can I do? Is there some sort of C-clamp device that I can buy to pop this thing out? Really frustrating - I'd like to hear what you all have had success with!

Thanks.


This is usually for ball joints but can remove stuck pins or bolts.

Yeah with splines on it, it's more than likely pressed in....beating on it will just fuk it up.

Use one of these C-clamp devices....you may need to take it off and to a heavy duty press.

Why were you trying to remove it anyway. You said you had the strut off...I am not getting it...if the OP would have just posted the make and model/year we'd be more help.
 

SampSon

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2006
7,160
1
0
Remove the whole knuckle with strut. Beat the living shit out of it.
Or you can bring it to a shop and they can pull it out, beat the living shit out of it and use a pneumatic tool.
 

1prophet

Diamond Member
Aug 17, 2005
5,313
534
126
Originally posted by: alkemyst
Originally posted by: 1prophet
Originally posted by: DougK62
So this bolt that I need to remove isn't budging. I have access to both sides of it - the head and the threaded end. You're supposed to just whack the threaded end and it pops out, but this guy is REALLY seized in there. I've been working on it for hours. I drench it in penetrating oil. I heat it with a torch, I cool it, I beat on it some more. What else can I do? Is there some sort of C-clamp device that I can buy to pop this thing out? Really frustrating - I'd like to hear what you all have had success with!

Thanks.


This is usually for ball joints but can remove stuck pins or bolts.

Yeah with splines on it, it's more than likely pressed in....beating on it will just fuk it up.

Use one of these C-clamp devices....you may need to take it off and to a heavy duty press.

Why were you trying to remove it anyway. You said you had the strut off...I am not getting it...if the OP would have just posted the make and model/year we'd be more help.

If there is room for the tool I linked, it works since it presses not beats on the part, I have done it myself. Need more information on the exact vehicle though.
 

Jugernot

Diamond Member
Oct 12, 1999
6,889
0
0
Originally posted by: OdiN
Originally posted by: DougK62
Originally posted by: boomerang
A lot of responses here from people that have never done the job, don't know what's involved in the job and have never seen anyone else do the job.

You can't drill it out, you can't use an easy out. The strut wraps around the knuckle, with the bolt through both. You can only apply heat to the knuckle in one isolated area. I would NEVER heat a suspension component up to the temperature required to allow this interference fit bolt to be removed.

The only way to get it out is to turn the wheel to the full locked position and wail on them like there's no tomorrow with the biggest sledge you can work in that area.

Then you'd better hope you don't wack the wheel well opening as you swing.

It's an interference fit. It's not corroded in the hole, it's not threaded in, it's pressed in.

Thanks for the clarification, that's exactly what I'm working with and have been trying to convey. The bad part is that this is on the rear of the car, so I can't turn the steering wheel to get better access to it!

What better reason to upsell the customer on QuadraSteer?

When I first bought my quadrasteer silverado, one of the first things I did was put on mudflaps. The back wheels were much easier! :)
 

ManyBeers

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2004
2,519
1
81
For all those saying this is an interference fit, would you please explain how the other three bolts came out with a single pop, as stated by the OP....

"Yeah, I checked out the bolt really well - it's straight. The others all came out with a single pop, this is the only stubborn one. It's definitely not wedged by pressure, and by looking at the exposed parts (head and threads) it isn't deformed at all."

If this was a press fit he would never get a 3/4 diameter bolt out with a"single pop".
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Originally posted by: ManyBeers
For all those saying this is an interference fit, would you please explain how the other three bolts came out with a single pop, as stated by the OP....

"Yeah, I checked out the bolt really well - it's straight. The others all came out with a single pop, this is the only stubborn one. It's definitely not wedged by pressure, and by looking at the exposed parts (head and threads) it isn't deformed at all."

If this was a press fit he would never get a 3/4 diameter bolt out with a"single pop".

Quality control or the lack of it. Chances are that the hole was made by drilling and then swedging the spline. Swedging tools wear out. Drills never cut the same way twice. The bolt could be slightly over-sized or it could have tried to turn either during use or installation and got distorted.

Nothing made by man is perfect.

Dowel pins are probably the most common item that are held to high tolerances. I can remember going through bins of dowel pins to find a couple that were made a couple of ten-thousandths bigger than the rest so they wouldn't fall out after I had reamed their mating holes with a newish reamer and made the holes too large.



 

ManyBeers

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2004
2,519
1
81
Originally posted by: Squisher
Originally posted by: ManyBeers
For all those saying this is an interference fit, would you please explain how the other three bolts came out with a single pop, as stated by the OP....

"Yeah, I checked out the bolt really well - it's straight. The others all came out with a single pop, this is the only stubborn one. It's definitely not wedged by pressure, and by looking at the exposed parts (head and threads) it isn't deformed at all."

If this was a press fit he would never get a 3/4 diameter bolt out with a"single pop".

Quality control or the lack of it. Chances are that the hole was made by drilling and then swedging the spline. Swedging tools wear out. Drills never cut the same way twice. The bolt could be slightly over-sized or it could have tried to turn either during use or installation and got distorted.

Nothing made by man is perfect.

Dowel pins are probably the most common item that are held to high tolerances. I can remember going through bins of dowel pins to find a couple that were made a couple of ten-thousandths bigger than the rest so they wouldn't fall out after I had reamed their mating holes with a newish reamer and made the holes too large.

This is not a press fit situation. He would never have gotten any of the bolts out if it were.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Originally posted by: ManyBeers
This is not a press fit situation. He would never have gotten any of the bolts out if it were.

There are many degrees of press fit.

The easiest requires you to push the item in with your thumb, the worst requires you to heat the hole and put the item into dry ice overnight and use a hydraulic press to push it in.

BTW-good luck getting the latter apart.



 

d33pt

Diamond Member
Jan 12, 2001
5,654
1
81
get some sort of puller to break it free. like a pitman arm puller, or a pickle fork. you'll understand once you see it.
 

SoulAssassin

Diamond Member
Feb 1, 2001
6,135
2
0
Propane won't do it, you need oxy. You can get a kit at Home Depot for 40 dollars, I just did this on Sunday trying to install a steering box skid plate on my Jeep. You have to get the bolt cherry red hot.
 

ManyBeers

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2004
2,519
1
81
Originally posted by: Squisher
Originally posted by: ManyBeers
This is not a press fit situation. He would never have gotten any of the bolts out if it were.

There are many degrees of press fit.

The easiest requires you to push the item in with your thumb, the worst requires you to heat the hole and put the item into dry ice overnight and use a hydraulic press to push it in.

BTW-good luck getting the latter apart.

That's funny because i have never heard of any application of press fitting on an automobile that requires thumb pressure especially a 3/4" diameter bolt. I repeat his situation is not an interference fit.