How do I clean this stuff of this heatsink? UPDATED: cpu fan now spins all the time???

[BehindEnemyLines]

Here are the two pictures that might help you all. Please copy and paste them into the address bar of a new browser window instead. A direct click on the links may not work.

http://geocities.com/kxn84/heatsink_above_view.jpg
http://geocities.com/kxn84/heatsink_angled_view.jpg

It's a laptop heatsink that previously had thermal pad and then some unknown thermal grease used. I tried using isopropyl alcohol (>99%) with Q-Tip, but all it does is removing the thermal grease and some black stuff. Eventually, the black residue disappears (almost) except for those leftover.

Any chemical I can use to clean this heatsink? I'm uncertain of the metal it uses - probably aluminium. Lapping might be possible but that might be extremely difficult. The bottom and top edges are raised up. The surface itself where the cpu core touches is smooth without visible scratches.

IMPORTANT: The cpu is a mobile Athlon 4 1.2GHz. Its die is significantly larger than a desktop Athlon XP.

 

[thetman]

Use xylene based products (Goof Off, some carburetor cleaners and many brake cleaners.) or mineral spiritsm.

 

[akira34]

I've found denatured alcohol does wonders for cleaning up heatsinks and such. It dries clean, leaving nothing behind, so it's safe. Mineral spirits will need to be cleaned up after since they do leave a residue.

 

[farmercal]

Fingernail polish remover will normally take anything off of anything

 

[akira34]

Originally posted by: farmercal
Fingernail polish remover will normally take anything off of anything

Problem with that is that you'll need to use a cleaner to get off the residue left from that cleaner. Denatured alc evap's clean.

 

[Davegod]

if it was copper i'd point you to brasso, which goes half way to lapping while you're at it.
dunno if it can be used on aluminium, and definately wouldnt use it unless instructions say its ok.

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

I don't think it's copper, and really have no idea the metal type.

I tried using 100% acetone, but it didn't help a bit. All of those imprints and stains are still there. I also have a bottom of fuel injector and carburator treatment with jet feul (says on the label). It also contains petroleum disstillates. Can I use that?

How about using fine sandpapers with these grits:
800, 1000, 40 micron (yellow), 25 micron (green), 20 micron (blue), 15 micron (peach), 10 micron (light green), and 10,000 grits. This from Easy PC Kits Heat Sink Lapping Kit Premium. I'm not sure how to apply the process since the area surrounding the center is rough.

How can I lap the inside square without touching those bumps and raised edges?

 

[akira34]

I'd try brake cleaner before sandpaper or the injector cleaner... Use a nylon brush with it (won't mark the surface of the heatsink)...

 

[Arsynic]

90% isoprobyl does it for me.

 

[TroubledTimeLord]

100% isopropyl alcohol would be recommended, or Goof-off (2 things recommended by the Arctic Silver website). Here is the link to that:



removal instructions (and installation)

I use 90+% and it works great. Hope that helps!

 

[akira34]

You'll be amazed at what brake cleaner (automotive parts store kind) will remove. With the nylon brush, I'd be surprised if it didn't clean it off. Of course, you'll need to do it in a well ventilated place or you'll pass out from the fumes (if you use too much or snort too much). Don't smoke near it either (can you say "hairless" I think you can). I've used it to clean some really nasty stuff off items before. Use alcohol after to get rid of any residue and you'll be fine...

 

[xbassman]

Originally posted by: akira34
I've found denatured alcohol does wonders for cleaning up heatsinks and such. It dries clean, leaving nothing behind, so it's safe. Mineral spirits will need to be cleaned up after since they do leave a residue.

This stuff works great!
<$4.00 for a quart @ Home Depot.

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

Okay, denatured alcohol and brake cleaner didn't help at all. All of those thing you see in the pictures are still there.

I'm considering lapping lightly with a high grit sandpaper, but I really have never done it before. So probably just put on so AS5 and be done with it. Any suggestion how I might go about lapping it?

 

[xbassman]

Originally posted by: BehindEnemyLines
Okay, denatured alcohol and brake cleaner didn't help at all. All of those thing you see in the pictures are still there.

I'm considering lapping lightly with a high grit sandpaper, but I really have never done it before. So probably just put on so AS5 and be done with it. Any suggestion how I might go about lapping it?

If the cleaners didnt' help lapping may be your only alternative.

you need a flat smooth work surface. (I use a glass top to a end table I have 12" round)
I would start with about 400grit wet/sand paper. Work the surface until the contamination is gone and the surface is smooth. Then go to 600 or 800 grit for a few minutes, then 1000-1200 grit. If I have 2000 grit around (I'm out right now) I will use that. Then you can use a polish to give the sink a mirror finish.

All that's left is to apply thermal compound and install.
The hardest part will be the first part removing the gunk.

Actually I had to do this to an old K6 heatsink that I had lying around before I installed it on a video card for one of my TA crunch boxes.

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

Unlike the normal desktop heatsink where the base is already flat, this one has bumps and raised edges with different height (top and bottom from pictures). So sanding it is difficult, since you can't really hold it flat against a piece of glass.

 

[xbassman]

Originally posted by: BehindEnemyLines
Unlike the normal desktop heatsink where the base is already flat, this one has bumps and raised edges with different height (top and bottom from pictures). So sanding it is difficult, since you can't really hold it flat against a piece of glass.

OIC! Well....You could either sand it by hand or maybe use someting like a Dremel with a sanding bit.
That may be kinda hard to keep it flat though. You'd probably have to put on the thermal grease a little thicker than normal.

Your pics don't work for me BTW.

Any possibility of replacing the HS?

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

I can replace the thing for about $91 not including shipping from HP. Maybe ebay will work, but it often only have used ones.

xbassman, what do you mean by "Your pics don't work for me BTW."? You've to copy the link into a NEW browser window. Anyone know any good picture (free) hosting site?

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

Okay guys. It's been a while. I put back the heatsink and applied the Arctice Silver 5. I notice it's thicker than the one that I had used (came with a Vantec Areoflow desktop heatsink). I think I applied more of AS5 than I did with the Vantec supplied thermal paste.

Here's the problem (if it is):

Now, the laptop cpu fan seems to spin much more often. It's already spinning the moment I turn the laptop on. It doesn't seem to turn off even though I left it alone for one hour with zero cpu utilization runing at 498MHz (using SpeedSwitchXP v1.4). The air exhausted is cool. The fan spins fast enough so I can hear it and feel it. Normal web browsing w/ IE and listen music result in warm air exhausted (not cool).

I also ran Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic and MemTest86+. Both programs caused the laptop to run very hot especially the area right above the cpu core (covered by the keyboard). The air exhausted is hot enough to make your hand very uncomfortable (feels like burning).

Is it because I put too much paste on it? I remember the fan doesn't spin that often and long (whether at all?) when using Windows Media, web browsing, non-cpu consuming programs, etc. It only runs full-time while playing games.

Should I reapply with a thinner layer or this is a characteristic of AS5? My room temperature is 80 degrees F or about 26.7 degrees Celcisus. Besides the fan spinning, the laptop is stable. I thought the fan only spin when the cpu temp gets above 40C or something like that.