how can i square up an old wooden door?

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mizzou

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Jan 2, 2008
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I have a old wooden door that is bending at the top corner, causing there to be a pretty good air gap between the frame and the door when closed. I could simply place some insulating material there, but I think it will simply push the door even further and further out of square.

What if I take a very long piece of iron/steel that is 1-2" wide and fairly thick....place it along the edges of the door and screw it in, would that possibly bring it back to square, or would it simply bend the metal?

I've read there is pretty much nothing you can do, outside replacement.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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Is the door bowed or out of square? Two different conditions, both repairable. Though the fix on a bowed door is damn ugly.
 

mizzou

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Jan 2, 2008
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Is the door bowed or out of square? Two different conditions, both repairable. Though the fix on a bowed door is damn ugly.

door.jpg



This is a pretty good rough characterization of the problem. The top corner highlighted is the only area where the door is not flush with the frame
The blue is to represent a full glass panel.

I was thinking, a thick and sturdy bar could be screwed into the wooden door, straightening the wood out.

If I could find a nice looking iron bar, it might look fairly original and not look too out of place.
http://www.indital.com/PUNCHED-FLAT...1853-180.htm?gclid=CIPaiPKwkMkCFUo8gQodZBIAuw

I suppose on one end, I could put the door back in square using a turnbuckle, then once it is squared out, drill and screw in iron bars that are perfectly straight. Hopefully the bars would then have enough tension resistance to keep the door squared up after the turnbuckle is removed? I suppose this would work on the edge of the wood as well, if you can get it straight, then screw in a metal plate, theoretically I would suspect the door would move only as much as the metal would allow. Kind of like that extra-security kickplate hardware. Obviously you would have to get the door straightened out first before installing it.

http://www.amazon.com/Safe-Homes-In..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0JZ12NWEPBDGZBWMM9QG
 
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Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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Got it.
You're on the right track already. You need a piece of angle iron or square tube attached to the door to pull it straight. It's not pretty, but it works.
 

mizzou

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Jan 2, 2008
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Thanks.

I think I'm going to just buy a stainless steel/aluminum or whatever flat bar and drill the holes myself. I can't believe how expensive some of these door reinforcement kits are!

That should pull it in. It's only sticking out about 1/6-1/8" right now
 

Humpy

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Mar 3, 2011
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Have you confirmed that the door stile is bowed? Either the top or bottom rail being bowed or twisted, or the jamb legs set out of plane, can cause the same issue of the door not meeting the stop evenly.

If it is the stile that is bowed then flat bar probably won't be rigid enough. Angle or square tube might be. There are also some less barbaric options such as the Hafele Planofit Door Straightening System or other truss rod system.

If the problem is really the air gap letting in cold air then adjusting the door stop, jamb, or hinges, or adding a surface mount door seal, might better solve the issue.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
21,747
6,175
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Have you confirmed that the door stile is bowed? Either the top or bottom rail being bowed or twisted, or the jamb legs set out of plane, can cause the same issue of the door not meeting the stop evenly.

If it is the stile that is bowed then flat bar probably won't be rigid enough. Angle or square tube might be. There are also some less barbaric options such as the Hafele Planofit Door Straightening System or other truss rod system.

If the problem is really the air gap letting in cold air then adjusting the door stop, jamb, or hinges, or adding a surface mount door seal, might better solve the issue.

I've never used a truss rod setup, looks like a nifty idea. The only down side is that it that you need a fair sized channel in the door face for it. Not so easy if it's a stain grade door.

I've trimmed a 1/4" off the edge of a door and screwed a piece of flat stock to it. It works well, and looks pretty good, but it's beyond what an average homeowner can do. It also sucks if you ever need to plane down the door a bit.
 
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