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How can I improve my temps? Prolimatech Megahalem with AC5

Sekkai

Senior member
My stock system, no OC, runs around 40C idle at 1.6 Ghz. Under 100% load with Prime 95, my temps start approaching 60C at 2.8 Ghz.

I am wondering how I can make my system cooler. I feel like these numbers are a bit on the high side. I've currently got an Antec 1200 case (three frontal intake fans, another fan behind my middle-front intake fan to help cool the gfx card, two upper rear exhaust fans, a top 200 mm exhaust fan, and two fans on my Megahalem (which is oriented so the air flows through it vertically) in a push-pull configuration.

I initially had things in just a pull configuration with a fan in the optional side panel, but I found that moving that side fan, instead, to the heatsink made my gfx card cooler somehow, even though the heatsink temp levels didn't seem to change much at all.

Regardless, how do those temps sound so far? I am wondering these numbers are high considering my heatsink and thermal compound.
 
As I type this, my room ambient is 27c & my idle temps on my i7 920 @ 3.8GHz are 43,39,42,39...& that's using a Megahalem w/the supplied TIM. Case is a CM Sniper...200mm front intake, top exhaust, 120mm rear exhaust, 140mm bottom intake & a 120mm side panel fan blowing in.
I've been told not to worry too much about idle...it's all about how it does @ load.
 
60c @ load isn't too bad w/a stock HSF.
What kind of CPU is it? AMD? Intel? Which model?
What's your room ambients?
 
I think I might try removing the heatsink/arctic silver5 and reapplying it. I'm wondering if I used too much?
 
Originally posted by: Tullphan
60c @ load isn't too bad w/a stock HSF.

Its not a stock HSF, its a Prolimatech Megahelm. 60 C at load on stock settings seems high. If it was OCed that'd sound about right, but not for stock.

Reseating is a good place to start. You really only need a drop of TIM BB size or smaller. Its designed to fill in the gaps where the metal of your HSF and processor aren't touching, not as a solid layer between the two.

 
Take off the side door. If the temp goes down a significant amount, you've got an airflow issue.

Also fire up CPU-Z and check what voltage you're running at - since you're not overclocking, I'm assuming the motherboard bios is all auto - it may be pumping out more voltage than you need.
 
Yes, it's all Auto, but none of my overvoltage lights are going off or anything on stock settings/1.6-2.8 Ghz. They do go off if I crank the base clock up from 133 to 150 without changing ANY other settings.

I'll try opening the door to see what goes on. How long should I wait after doing so?


I just took it off, and the tmps are not changing much at idle. Let me try Prime95 real quick.

Alright... temps still going up to like 58-59-60 on full load, 2.8 Ghz. Airflow seems to NOT be the problem here. These temps happen even with the door closed.



Is removing the AC5 with a towel/Qtip sufficient or is isopropyl alcohol like, really, really neccessary?

Do i7 users have better results with the tiny-BB approach or the line as designated by the AC website?
 
Cleaning it with alcohol is really your best bet. However, if you're simply cleaning it to reapply the same thermal material as before, a paper towel should be sufficient. The old thermal material will actually get rubbed into the microscopic valleys in the IHS and could improve temperatures (though unlikely). I had the most luck doing this with AS5, no idea about Arctic Cooling and other pastes.
 
Ah I meant AS5, not AC5. I've been using Arctic Silver 5. A paper towel should be sufficient for this, you say? Wouldn't it rip and leave behind a lot of towel shrapnel?
 
Originally posted by: Sekkai
Ah I meant AS5, not AC5. I've been using Arctic Silver 5. A paper towel should be sufficient for this, you say? Wouldn't it rip and leave behind a lot of towel shrapnel?

You should use alcohol combined with that paper towel and so there won't be any residue left.
 
what kind of paper towel? Just the kind that come in a roll that you clean up spills with? Brawny-type stuff?
 
first off, dont use AS5 with the megahalems, and second of all check your CPU and HSF base for flatness using a razor. my megahalems came slightly rounded outward (so as to apply pressure to the CPU IHS), but because my CPU was also rounded, it acted to increase temps about 2c. pressure modding it didnt make any difference so i lapped it and its fine now. are you bottoming the bolts out on the retention bracket that holds the cooler to the motherboard mounted bars? i found my temps improved a few C when they were bottomed out, and another 2c after a pressure mod AFTER i lapped it (so 4c from pressure mod + lapping). as for your TIM, use something besides AS5. AS5 may be known for its performance, from a time when cooler bases and CPU bases were horribly finished, and contact area was low so viscosity didnt make any difference. in testing with my Megahalems (and a TRUE Black to a lesser extent), i found that some newer pastes (Tuniq TX2, Thermalright CF2 for starters), which had a significantly lower viscosity (they werent as thick) performed significantly better when using a properly prepared mounting surface and high mounting pressure. i use the "rubber glove" method that benchmarkreviews lists in their 80 way thermal paste review (which btw isnt a very good review, though their cooler reviews are great). with this application method, using CF2, i was able to drop my temps 2c from what i could get with AS5.

so, thats 4c from pressure mod + bottomed bolts (vs none + loose bolts), 2c from lapping it, and 2c from a better TIM. this is using push/pull yate loon low speeds @ 12v. load temps are about 65c under load at 1.376vcore @ 4.2GHz with a Q9650, with horizontal airflow (east to west) blowing out the back of the case. i have found that vertical airflow actually hurts my temps, because while convection would in theory assist in cooling, you end up pulling extremely hot air off the back of the graphics card. i was able to lower my temps about 3.5c by using a horizontal mount to limit how much airflow i pulled directly off the graphics card. this was all taken in a HAF932 with the door off, a 140mm yate in place of the stock coolermaster fan, and an additional 120mm low speed yate in the bottom of the case, which is blowing freshly cooled air into the graphics card. the case was devoid of dust during all tests.

ed: load temps with OCCT range from 68c 65c 63c 62c. i dont temperature test with linpack in this configuration unfortunately. due to the low airflow over my cooler, temperatures never normalize, since the low airflow allows heat to slowly build up in the cooler until it reaches TJMax and thermal cycles to prevent failure. i tested with a 90CFM fan in place of the push/pull fans to see if it made a difference, but i never did any extensive temperature tests with this configuration since it took me 3 applications to get the right amount of TIM (to much and it acts as an insulator), and its easier to swap a fan once, once the cooler is in the case, than it is to continually remount it. if i aim a fan blowing 10c air into the case i can get it to level off at 80c 80c 77c 77c without hitting TJMax, but this obviously isnt an effective test method, since even a slight drop in cpu load at these temps due to a backround process drops the measured temps as much as 5-8c instantly (going from 100% load across all 4 cores, to say 97% load, with 3000CFM @ 10c). this is the only way i was able to get the system to last long enough to run linpack on it for an hour to test for ultimate stability lol. i will do testing on this sometime in the future when i have the time and i feel like stripping my comp
 
Interesting... I'll have to look into those pastes.

That was an extremely detailed reply... thank you so much. Unfortunately now I feel like I have to start buying more stuff (I need to somehow remove the AS5 on the heatsink/possibly get some Yate Loons/reorganize the orientation of my heatsink/get new compound).

What do you think of OCZ Freeze?

I also don't know what you mean by bottoming out the bolts, but I tightened everything as hard as I could.

Right now I've got a Slipstream and a Kaze-something push-pulling through my vertically-mounted Megahalem. Thanks for that insight about the vertical orientation, btw. All over Google, people had said the vertical orient was better, but your graphics-card heat argument makes a lot more sense to me. I figure that heat is far worse than the offset from convection.

Also, wow 4.2 Ghz and still sub-70 under load? Jealous 🙁

Will I be able to take off the Megahalem/reapply paste/reorient it/etc without taking out my mobo again?
 
Originally posted by: Sekkai
Interesting... I'll have to look into those pastes.

That was an extremely detailed reply... thank you so much. Unfortunately now I feel like I have to start buying more stuff (I need to somehow remove the AS5 on the heatsink/possibly get some Yate Loons/reorganize the orientation of my heatsink/get new compound).

you are welcome. as for buying better fans, what are you using now, it might be just fine. i got the yates cause they are cheap and quiet, and i was already using all the nexus fans my step dad gave me in my 690

What do you think of OCZ Freeze?

i have heard mixed reviews about it. some places say it is great, others say that AS5 is better. the one thing i do know about it is that it is less viscous than AS5, and it is a very good TIM either way, which puts it in the category of worth a shot. however, if you dont already have any, try tuniq TX-3. im using TX-2 with the best results of everything i tested (AS5, Chillfactor 1 and 2, the goop that came with the megahalems, and TX-2, and TX-3 is an improved formula over it, for a reasonable price

I also don't know what you mean by bottoming out the bolts, but I tightened everything as hard as I could.

this is exactly what i mean. tightening the screws until you cant tighten them any more. make sure you use a PH-2 (phillips head size 2) screwdriver with good grip and a firm press so as to not strip the screw when turning it. some computer kits come with one that is supposed to be PH-2, but it is really about a 1.9, and i have stripped many screws with these off size screwdrivers. if it isnt snug, dont use it, and turn it until it physically stops turning, you wont strip the socket. i used an extended bit with an electric drill to mount mine lmao

Right now I've got a Slipstream and a Kaze-something push-pulling through my vertically-mounted Megahalem. Thanks for that insight about the vertical orientation, btw. All over Google, people had said the vertical orient was better, but your graphics-card heat argument makes a lot more sense to me. I figure that heat is far worse than the offset from convection.

make sure your fans both have roughly the same CFM or it can result in weird results in temperatures depending on the design of the cooler. if the fans are to far apart in CFM it can even result in the fans working against each other. if you must use 2 different speed fans, try to get them as close together as possible in CFM, and put the one with the higher CFM in pull, so as to pull extra air in from places the pushing fan may not be blowing air in from. as the megahalems is split down the center, this leaves a large gap in which a fan in pull could take air in onto the fins, that the fan in push may not achieve on its own. this will also pull air through tight areas in the metal and improve over all performance, though it is preferable in my experience to match your fans

Also, wow 4.2 Ghz and still sub-70 under load? Jealous 🙁

my ambient when i test are around 68f since i test at night with the window open. if i test during the day, heat builds up in my room and my temps skyrocket, giving me funky results. given, the only time they even go this high is when im testing, but its better to get reproducible results in a nonstandard operational environment than to have your temps fly all over in a hot room with constantly rising ambient air temps past 80f. welcome to sunny california

Will I be able to take off the Megahalem/reapply paste/reorient it/etc without taking out my mobo again?

YES, this is one of the many great things about the megahalems mounting bracket, besides being extremely easy to pressure mod, and even easier to install. once the screws are holding the back plate in place, all you need do is remove the cooler retention bar, and move the supporting bars from a left to right orientation for vertical mounting, to a top to bottom orientation, for horizontal mounting.

i think i covered everything. i will check on this when i wake up in 7 hours after a shower, before i go to work 😎
 
I currently have this fan as my pusher:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16835185060

And this as my puller:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16811999122

Although they ended up shipping me a blue LED Kaze-whatever, which I'm not sure is the same.



Regardless, I used to have that LED fan on my side panel with the slipstream on TOP in pull configuration, and the temps were still the same. The only difference now is that, for some reason, my graphics card is cooler when I moved the side fan to the top of the heatsink and the fan that was on the top of the heatsink to the bottom of that heatsink in push.


Do you think it might just be high ambient temps? I live in Texas, but I mean the house is air conditioned -- given the screenie I posted earlier, what do you think?
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9823/hwmon.jpg


It might just be that I applied too much AC5... but I want to try reapplying the paste and putting the heatsink horizontally. Thing is, I've only got two of those fan clip things. Right now, the fan on top of my heatsink is just sitting there clipless, which is fine. But if I orient it sideways, I might be in trouble. Hopefully I can get away with one clip each.
 
you wont be able to, the fan clips apply enough pressure to make the fan want to pop off like on a spring loaded hinge if you dont use 2. the 2 fans themselfs are close enough in CFM that it probably isnt a big deal, and you obviously dont care about noise, so air turbulence isnt an issue. just remember to put the scythe fan in pull. your internal temps at idle seem fine, about the same as mine, though my HDDs are a bit cooler lol. i honestly think you should check the base of your cooler and CPU to see how flat they are. you see how my temps are much hotter on core 1 and 2 vs 3 and 4? thats cause my cpu isnt flat lol. i havent lapped it because im fine with it where it is now as far as temps and stability under most usage, but it was worse before i lapped the cooler. the megahalems is extremely easy to lap to boot. the nickle layer on the surface is extremely thin and can be lapped through with 600 grit paper in a matter of minutes, and you can take down any bump in the middle easily after that since copper is pretty easy to lap once it's exposed. try just remounting the cooler with less of a different TIM first though, you can check the base when you remount it, and decide from your temps after that if it's worth lapping or not.

ed: also one other thing, have you tried just overclocking your cpu to see how high it will go? my temps may not seem much higher than yours despire my significantly higher OC, but im testing with a probably lower ambient than you are over in texas, and my temps really didnt go up a whole lot as i overclocked my cpu. adding extra heat to the mix can help sometimes. when i put on a fresh coat of TIM i run linpack in a 15 minute on off cycle, letting it heat up for 15 minutes, then cool off and idle for another 15, repeating for a few hours. if the TIM wasnt quite even, this will help even it off, and it will also help with curing time if the TIM you used benefits from it.
 
I had my voltages on auto, but when I changed my baseclock to 150 (3.15 ghz), my load temps were approaching 70
 
I've got some alcohol... what's the best way to do this?

Just remove the heatsink, wipe away what I can with a towel, the apply some alcohol and wipe the rest clean? Do I need to wait?
 
Wait you didn't manually set your voltages? That is probably one reason your temps are so high. As for remounting you have the right idea. Try to use a lint free cloth, but if you don't have one just use a duster to blow it off. The alchohol should evaporate almost instantly. Same for the CPU. Then put new TIM on the cooler base and tighten it down. I get off work in 4 hours. If you want I can have a pictorial guide ready tomorrow

ed: woot i broke 1000 posts lol
 
I took off the heatsink, used alcohol to clean everything (99%), reattached heatsink horizontally, made sure it was on there tight, aaaaaaaaand:


Temps are still around 40C. UNGH.

At load 2.8 Ghz, still around 60C. 1.232V core load .944V idle, and now it's saying 8V on the +12V at load, 1.5V idle
 
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