Home re-construction question

DrPizza

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Getting ready to do some major renovations on the kitchen. The whole job involves removing the basement stairway (and putting a basement entrance on the exterior of the house with bilco doors), adding that area onto the kitchen, eliminating a small window (with a poor view, and always in the shade), and eliminating an opening that looks out into our sunroom. Then, of course, completely gutting the room, right down to the 2x4's, new electric, new water, new cupboards, new appliances, new flooring, new counter, etc.

However, this leaves the room without sunlight. The current location of the window is 6 inches from the corner - retarded. The cupboards in there were custom built as a result, and only have a depth of 6 inches along the one wall. Useless. And, the kitchen is only 9'1" by 9'5". After eliminating the basement stairway and corresponding wall, the new dimensions will be 9'5" x 13'2".


Which leads me to this question: tips or advice on the first stage of my project: framing a wall above the supporting wall to the peak of the roof, (to add more support to the roof so that the outer wall (which is now the inner wall of a sunroom) won't bow out. I'm guessing that the 2x6's may provide a bit of lateral strength; the extra support for the roof should provide the same, or rather prevent the roof from shifting downward and the wall bowing out under a snow load. Then removing the 2x6 ceiling joists, and putting in two skylights (which would give the kitchen sunlight for the first time ever.) Also, as they're 2x6's, should I simply put in the styrofoam baffles (or whatever they're called for ventilation against the roof deck) then 5 1/2 inches of fiberglass insulation? Will it be safe for me to remove the ceiling joists first, then build that wall? If I do it in that order, I'll be able to get some sheets of OSB into the attic area and put down a floor for storage. (Oh, and is recessed lighting that close to the roof okay?)

Here's a picture with a rough (very rough) diagram of stage 1:
DSCN2673.JPG

(I got a smoking deal on the skylights already; they were at a discount warehouse and clearanced twice :) Finished size is 22 1/2 inchs by 45 inches or something like that... should be perfect.
 

bctbct

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Dec 22, 2005
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If you have a permit and plan on inspections you had better ask the city to approve a design since this is a structural issue.

If not and you have insurance, proceed

In theory if you stop the ridge from deflecting the ext. wall should not be able to move.

One thing you may run into is needing bracing at the exterior wall because the soffit on the outside of your house is likely canlievered. Basically the 2X6 ceiling joist sits on top of the ext. wall framing and depending on the pitch of the roof there is likely a gap from the ceiling joist and the rafter. You will have to install blocking and secure this.

If you are talking about extending the height of the main bearing wall down the center of the house up to the rafter, this is how I would do it.

I would install a double plate directly below the ridge. 2X4s 16" centers down to the top plate of the existing bearing wall. This wall (ext. bearing wall) must have a double plate (align the new stud with the existing stud below). The existing wall problem ahs a few doubled up studs, duplicate this on the new wall. Do not build the new wall on top of the existing ceiling joist that will be left in the way.

Verify that any door opening in the existing bearing wall has 2X8 headers installed with trimmers below the header.

You will want to install the styrofoam vents to prevent moisture problems.

All new blocking and walls need to be install prior to removing any ceiling joists.

Use r-19 insulation with a paper vapor barrier attached (faced) r-11 where you have vents. Verify with the manufacturer but I think those should be installed every other void, make sure they open vented to the existing attic apace and not blocked with itch.

Lights should be no problem, sometimes flor. lights will overheat the ballasts if you dont have good clear space around them. Not a fire hazard though as I understand it.

Skylights I would install triple headers on each end to carry the new load. Skylight install sucks btw...hire a roofer.

Probably worth $200-400 to have a engineer confirm your design because your insurance likely will have a shit fit if you bring the roof down.

I think member greenman??? Is a contractor if you want to pm him to chime in. He usually seems on the mark.

GL, you will hate your new kitchen after this project :)

 

DrPizza

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Originally posted by: bctbct
GL, you will hate your new kitchen after this project :)

Thanks for the tips. I realized after I typed that post that even with the ceiling joists in place, I'll still be able to easily get some OSB into the attic area. It'd be so much nicer to be able to use a portion of it for storage. :) Or rather, it'd be so much nicer to use it as storage and not have to tip toe carefully for fear of winding up out of the attic in a hurry.
 

Squisher

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Putting windows high up where that gable vent is now might give you all the light you need without the problems that skylights seem to always have.

 

bctbct

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Dec 22, 2005
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Window in the eave is a good idea. I would still do the skylights though.
 

DrPizza

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........ggggg|ggg
sssssggggg|ggg
sssssggggg|ggg
kkkk|
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dddd|
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g=garage, s=sunroom, k=kitchen, d=dining room. The wall on the right to the kitchen and dining room faces almost due North. The only time any sunlight even hits that corner is very early in the morning (5 to 6am) in the middle of the summer. I have to wash the green moss/mold or whatever it is off the siding in that corner. But, the entire exterior kitchen wall is almost always shaded, thus I'm not wanting to bother with screwing around with the siding to stick in a window on that wall. Plus, that's where the power line from the transformer meets the house. So, that eliminates any thought of a window near the gable vent.

Redoing the roofing over there won't be too big of a deal. I really don't mind the job of putting in the skylights. It might even be a good excuse to get a nice toy - roofing nail gun. Besides, I already bought the skylights :)
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
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Originally posted by: Squisher
Putting windows high up where that gable vent is now might give you all the light you need without the problems that skylights seem to always have.

Those are commonly known as clerestory windows, and I think they are DA BOMB!
you can put regular shades on them to control the light, and as you already pointed out, they are no more leak-prone than any conventional window.
Skylights are a roofing nightmare in the long run. Doc, can you wait on this till October 1?:p
 

bctbct

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Dec 22, 2005
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Originally posted by: DrPizza
........ggggg|ggg
sssssggggg|ggg
sssssggggg|ggg
kkkk|
kkkk|
dddd|
dddd|

g=garage, s=sunroom, k=kitchen, d=dining room. The wall on the right to the kitchen and dining room faces almost due North. The only time any sunlight even hits that corner is very early in the morning (5 to 6am) in the middle of the summer. I have to wash the green moss/mold or whatever it is off the siding in that corner. But, the entire exterior kitchen wall is almost always shaded, thus I'm not wanting to bother with screwing around with the siding to stick in a window on that wall. Plus, that's where the power line from the transformer meets the house. So, that eliminates any thought of a window near the gable vent.

Redoing the roofing over there won't be too big of a deal. I really don't mind the job of putting in the skylights. It might even be a good excuse to get a nice toy - roofing nail gun. Besides, I already bought the skylights :)


Just because you dont have direct lght doesnt mean you wont get light in. I thought it would look nice. I think skylights have improved over the years just pay attention to how they say to flash it.

btw, you wont have to remove all the shingles to impress the wife enough to buy a coil nailer :)
 

DrPizza

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I'm so paranoid about the flashing that I briefly considered getting a sheet of rubber roofing to use as an underlayment, cutting two holes just right to fit over the windows, and extend to the edge of the roof. Then, tarring the heck out of where it meets the skylights just to be super super sure it'll never leak.

I double checked with the wife on the window idea you had bctbct. It's a pretty good idea. Wife kinda liked the idea. It just may be a bit of a pita to get the weatherhead moved where the electrical service comes to the house.
 
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Originally posted by: DrPizza
I'm so paranoid about the flashing that I briefly considered getting a sheet of rubber roofing to use as an underlayment, cutting two holes just right to fit over the windows, and extend to the edge of the roof. Then, tarring the heck out of where it meets the skylights just to be super super sure it'll never leak.

I double checked with the wife on the window idea you had bctbct. It's a pretty good idea. Wife kinda liked the idea. It just may be a bit of a pita to get the weatherhead moved where the electrical service comes to the house.

terrible idea. properly installed flashing will last for a lifetime. tar will only be a temporary solution that will need perpetual maintenance.
 

bctbct

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Dec 22, 2005
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Originally posted by: DrPizza
I'm so paranoid about the flashing that I briefly considered getting a sheet of rubber roofing to use as an underlayment, cutting two holes just right to fit over the windows, and extend to the edge of the roof. Then, tarring the heck out of where it meets the skylights just to be super super sure it'll never leak.

I double checked with the wife on the window idea you had bctbct. It's a pretty good idea. Wife kinda liked the idea. It just may be a bit of a pita to get the weatherhead moved where the electrical service comes to the house.

I am pretty sure that each skylight has a specific flashing kit. Probably void warr. if you use something else.
 

DrPizza

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Note: I had only considered the rubber roofing - as an underlayment for the asphalt shingles. I ended up deciding that it would be overkill.