Home buying: Tips for getting pre-approved?

Triumph

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,031
14
81
Ok, so I've found plenty of websites explaining WHY one should be pre-approved, but only a few with tips on actually DOING it. For example, should I go and pay to see my own credit score, or just wait until I talk to a lender? I'm afraid that multiple hits will ding the score, plus I'm going to pay them to dig it up, anyway. Any benefits to getting it now?

How about choosing lenders? Pre-approval does not tie you to that lender, but there are a ton of lenders out there and I would like to be able to start actively looking for houses, not just looking for lenders. That can be a full time job!
 

RyanPaulShaffer

Diamond Member
Jul 13, 2005
3,434
1
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Originally posted by: Triumph
Ok, so I've found plenty of websites explaining WHY one should be pre-approved, but only a few with tips on actually DOING it. For example, should I go and pay to see my own credit score, or just wait until I talk to a lender? I'm afraid that multiple hits will ding the score, plus I'm going to pay them to dig it up, anyway. Any benefits to getting it now?

How about choosing lenders? Pre-approval does not tie you to that lender, but there are a ton of lenders out there and I would like to be able to start actively looking for houses, not just looking for lenders. That can be a full time job!

You can get a free annual credit report in most states. Look up your particular state to see if it applies to you.

As for the lender, call around. Ask them to explain rates, fees, etc. I would only go and get pre-approved at one lender after you are sure they are the lender you want to go with. Like you said, multiple hits on your credit score can be a bad thing.
 

RaistlinZ

Diamond Member
Oct 15, 2001
7,470
9
91
Why does looking at one's credit score hurt it? The whole FICO thing a massive joke in my opinion.
 

RyanPaulShaffer

Diamond Member
Jul 13, 2005
3,434
1
0
Originally posted by: RaistlinZ
Why does looking at one's credit score hurt it? The whole FICO thing a massive joke in my opinion.

It doesn't make any sense, but that's just the way it is. If you have too many inquiries into your credit (credit reports, credit card apps, etc.) it hurts your score. What's even dumber is if you close some accounts that you no longer use (say a CC you've had sitting around unused for years), that can also hurt your score as well.

Funny...one would think that someone having less possible debt accounts would be a GOOD thing.

:roll:
 

SuperSix

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
9,872
2
0
Well, you have to find a broker/lender first, then get preapproved. Just because you get preapproved by them, does not lock you into them for the actual mortgage.

I went to Zillow.com, there's a place there to get anonymous mortgage quotes. I ended up going through somone that my realtor suggested. I used the GFE (Good Faith Estimates) from Zillow to make sure I was getting the best deal, and service. Lendtingtree.com maybe?

You should get a report for your knowledge - but you will still have to pay for one once you close.

<--- Closed less that 2 weeks ago.
 

DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
15,299
740
126
getting a pre-approval is not the 1st step, but knowing your credit certainly is. Also knowing your debt to income ratio. B4 you go looking for houses you make sure you have at lease a "Good" credit and enough Debt to income ratio for the amount you want to finance.

Then you start looking for a house, you look until you fell like you are close to something, you find more than 1 house for which you are ready to make an offer. When you feel you can buy withing a month, thats when you go to get a pre-approval or Good faith estimate. You should be ready submit an application within a month of getting a good faith estimate that way it wont effect your credit.

getting a PA or GFE from someone certainly does not tie you with them but it does give you a nice leverage, any other lender you talk to you show them that GFE and that tells them that you are a serious buyer and what APR they have to compete against, GFE will generally have the lowest possible APR based on your credentials so shopping for a loan with GFE in hand is quiet helpful IMO
 

dullard

Elite Member
May 21, 2001
26,130
4,787
126
Multiple checks on your credit report/score do NOT harm your credit score at all if the checks are relatively concentrated. Just get that out of your head, it isn't an issue unless you have banks check repeatedly for many months/years on end (and even then the credit score hit is miniscule).

If you are denied credit for any reason, you are legally able to get your credit score for free. So, knowing your credit score beforehand is of very little value. Either you get the loan you want (and in which case many lenders will happily tell you your scores) or you are denied and get a free report by law (and usually a score if you ask the banker). Either way you probably get your score and either way your knowledge of the score had no impact on the deal. Why pay in advance as it won't affect the outcome?

There honestly is very little difference from lender to lender. Sure, there are differences, but they tend to be small. The reason is that many of these loans are just sold off to other investors with similar sale terms so you are really only comparing the amount the bank/mortage broker skims off the top of the deal. If they all look alike after seeing a few offers, you probably won't gain much from shopping around more. Meaning that you can probably get this all accomplished in a long day's worth of work.

Assuming you are comparing similar products, there are two main things to look at: the interest rate and the bank's fees (a dozen little "gotcha" fees and optionally "points" fees). Those two things are linked. You can pay thousands of dollars in fees to get a lower interest rate (probably good if you stay there for decades). Or, you can get a low or no fee loan for a higher interest rate (probably good if you stay there for the average 5 years). Don't fall victim to a strong sales pitch that highlights one while hiding the other. Of course, avoid any loan with high fees AND high interest rate.

Start at a website like this. Put in your state, your desired loan type, and desired loan size. You'll get a rough estimate on what you'll likely pay. Note: if you have horrible credit, you'll pay more if you can get a loan at all. Then call/visit websites of your local banks/mortgage brokers and see how they compare.

The biggest decision is what TYPE of mortgage (30-year, 20-year, 15-year, fixed vs variable, if it is variable how does it vary, etc). To figure that out, you'll need to know your income and roughly how much you'll want to pay on the house. If you have a low income and want an expensive house, you'll need a 30-year loan if you can get one at all. If you have a high income and want a cheaper house, 20-year may save you a bundle in some cases. Fixed is a good idea since interest rates are pretty low right now. But, if you are a typical first time buyer who stays in the house only 5 years, getting a loan that is fixed for a few years followed by variable in the years you won't be in the house can save you a bundle.

If you happen to want a variable interest rate mortgage (probably a bad idea if you stay there for decades and probably a good idea if you are typical and stay there for 5 years), try starting here. In my limited searches, I've never seen better variable rate mortgages than at that place.
 

Triumph

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,031
14
81
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!
 

dullard

Elite Member
May 21, 2001
26,130
4,787
126
Originally posted by: Triumph
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!
Good, now you know where to start. You need to figure out what all of those confusing terms mean. THEN you can get preapproved. You were skipping this important step. I think most people do skip it, which lead us to this whole banking disaster where people didn't understand what they were signing and can't pay.
 

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
8,345
126
Originally posted by: Triumph
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!

You have to look at the points and closing fees. Ususally the lowball rates are assessing a 1 to 1.5 point fee on there and/or have $4000 closing costs.

A "point" is 1% the value of your house. If you have a $100,000 house, then paying a point costs you $1000. You have to run the math on if points are worth it or not for the time you plan on staying there. With rates as low as they are right now, and if you are only there for 5 years, you'll probably never get your money back on the points.

I'd also look in your local sunday newspaper for what your local banks & Credit Unions are running. For me, my local credit union was competitive with just about anything I could find online. Plus dealing with an office down the road is much more comforting than be redirected to New Dehli after calling an 800 number on the back of statement.
 

Triumph

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,031
14
81
Originally posted by: dullard
Originally posted by: Triumph
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!
Good, now you know where to start. You need to figure out what all of those confusing terms mean. THEN you can get preapproved. You were skipping this important step. I think most people do skip it, which lead us to this whole banking disaster where people didn't understand what they were signing and can't pay.

That's fine, but the APR's are not close, I understand what the terms mean but I don't understand what you mean when you say they're all the same.
 

DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
15,299
740
126
Originally posted by: Triumph
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!

If you have a "Good" credit you should be able to get very close to 4.7, max 5
 

RaistlinZ

Diamond Member
Oct 15, 2001
7,470
9
91
Originally posted by: vi edit
Originally posted by: Triumph
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!

You have to look at the points and closing fees. Ususally the lowball rates are assessing a 1 to 1.5 point fee on there and/or have $4000 closing costs.

A "point" is 1% the value of your house. If you have a $100,000 house, then paying a point costs you $1000. You have to run the math on if points are worth it or not for the time you plan on staying there. With rates as low as they are right now, and if you are only there for 5 years, you'll probably never get your money back on the points.

I'd also look in your local sunday newspaper for what your local banks & Credit Unions are running. For me, my local credit union was competitive with just about anything I could find online. Plus dealing with an office down the road is much more comforting than be redirected to New Dehli after calling an 800 number on the back of statement.


So then why do people have to pay points on closing? Is it only if you have poor credit or something? Why are they penalizing you right off the bat just for buying the house?
 

DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
15,299
740
126
Originally posted by: HardcoreRobot
do not rely on someone else to tell you how much you can afford

Yes, do your own math, only you can tell how much you can afford.
For the bank, including the loan that you are applying for your debt to income ratio should not exceed ~ 35%, thats just a rule of thumb
 

mugs

Lifer
Apr 29, 2003
48,920
46
91
Originally posted by: RaistlinZ

So then why do people have to pay points on closing? Is it only if you have poor credit or something? Why are they penalizing you right off the bat just for buying the house?

You pay points to get a lower interest rate. It's like paying interest up-front. It usually works out in your favor if you stay in the house for a long time (in the ballpark of 7+ years I think)
 

DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
15,299
740
126
Originally posted by: RaistlinZ
Originally posted by: vi edit
Originally posted by: Triumph
Thanks for the link Dullard, but it shows a range of rates from 4.7% to 5.5% for my zip code, that seems fairly broad. Plus the whole points thing, and fees, which confuse all of this greatly. But 4.7% to 5.5% doesn't seem like a small difference!

You have to look at the points and closing fees. Ususally the lowball rates are assessing a 1 to 1.5 point fee on there and/or have $4000 closing costs.

A "point" is 1% the value of your house. If you have a $100,000 house, then paying a point costs you $1000. You have to run the math on if points are worth it or not for the time you plan on staying there. With rates as low as they are right now, and if you are only there for 5 years, you'll probably never get your money back on the points.

I'd also look in your local sunday newspaper for what your local banks & Credit Unions are running. For me, my local credit union was competitive with just about anything I could find online. Plus dealing with an office down the road is much more comforting than be redirected to New Dehli after calling an 800 number on the back of statement.


So then why do people have to pay points on closing? Is it only if you have poor credit or something? Why are they penalizing you right off the bat just for buying the house?

Yes, if you dont qualify for the lowest APR your payment will go up - to keep it down you "buy" apr with points. so you pay more upfront and make lower monthly payments. You have look at the difference in the amortization to figure out/calculate if its good for you or not.
banks try to sneak in points to show that they are giving you lower APR, thats the most common reason for "right off the bat". More like the car sales gimmick - whats you monthly payment going to be...
 

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
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Originally posted by: RaistlinZ

So then why do people have to pay points on closing? Is it only if you have poor credit or something? Why are they penalizing you right off the bat just for buying the house?

Normally a point is something a buyer chooses to do to lower their interest rate. A point would knock it down 1/4% or so. You are basically pre-paying the interest to the bank. It does nothing for reducing the initial principal balance.

I can't say I've ever heard of someone being forced to pay points to be offered a loan. Some places just list points reduced rates so that they show up as the lowest rate offering.
 

spacejamz

Lifer
Mar 31, 2003
10,981
1,701
126
Originally posted by: dullard

If you are denied credit for any reason, you are legally able to get your credit score for free.

I thought that you only got access to your credit report which does not contain a FICO score...or have things changed??



 

DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
15,299
740
126
Originally posted by: spacejamz
Originally posted by: dullard

If you are denied credit for any reason, you are legally able to get your credit score for free.

I thought that you only got access to your credit report which does not contain a FICO score...or have things changed??

Anyone who does you credit check get ALL the info including scores. You are always entitled to get a copy. If you are qualified, they generally don't give it to you upfront but once the deal is closed you can always get it.
In case for mortgage when you apply for a loan you sign a disclosure agreement which has your entire credit summary, you get a copy of it anyways.
 

spacejamz

Lifer
Mar 31, 2003
10,981
1,701
126
Originally posted by: DesiPower
Originally posted by: spacejamz
Originally posted by: dullard

If you are denied credit for any reason, you are legally able to get your credit score for free.

I thought that you only got access to your credit report which does not contain a FICO score...or have things changed??

Anyone who does you credit check get ALL the info including scores. You are always entitled to get a copy. If you are qualified, they generally don't give it to you upfront but once the deal is closed you can always get it.
In case for mortgage when you apply for a loan you sign a disclosure agreement which has your entire credit summary, you get a copy of it anyways.

that really doesn't answer my question...

Dullard stated that you get your credit score if you are denied credit...I am trying to clarify if you get you only get a credit report (with no score) or do you actually get a score now if you are denied credit...
 

mugs

Lifer
Apr 29, 2003
48,920
46
91
Originally posted by: spacejamz
Originally posted by: DesiPower
Originally posted by: spacejamz
Originally posted by: dullard

If you are denied credit for any reason, you are legally able to get your credit score for free.

I thought that you only got access to your credit report which does not contain a FICO score...or have things changed??

Anyone who does you credit check get ALL the info including scores. You are always entitled to get a copy. If you are qualified, they generally don't give it to you upfront but once the deal is closed you can always get it.
In case for mortgage when you apply for a loan you sign a disclosure agreement which has your entire credit summary, you get a copy of it anyways.

that really doesn't answer my question...

Dullard stated that you get your credit score if you are denied credit...I am trying to clarify if you get you only get a credit report (with no score) or do you actually get a score now if you are denied credit...

http://www.experian.com/ask_max/max100108b.html

Doesn't say you get the score, so I'd assume you only get the report.

The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) allows you to get a free credit report if your application is denied. However, you can only get a free report from the credit reporting company that provided the report used by your lender to make its decision.

Your lender should have provided instructions to request your report from Experian or from one of the other national credit reporting companies, depending on which company provided the report.
 

DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
15,299
740
126
Originally posted by: spacejamz
Originally posted by: DesiPower
Originally posted by: spacejamz
Originally posted by: dullard

If you are denied credit for any reason, you are legally able to get your credit score for free.

I thought that you only got access to your credit report which does not contain a FICO score...or have things changed??

Anyone who does you credit check get ALL the info including scores. You are always entitled to get a copy. If you are qualified, they generally don't give it to you upfront but once the deal is closed you can always get it.
In case for mortgage when you apply for a loan you sign a disclosure agreement which has your entire credit summary, you get a copy of it anyways.

that really doesn't answer my question...

Dullard stated that you get your credit score if you are denied credit...I am trying to clarify if you get you only get a credit report (with no score) or do you actually get a score now if you are denied credit...

Its not clear if you are asking or just making a statement, in case its a question - creditors will give you a copy of the report that they receive and this report does have all the scores on them
 

dullard

Elite Member
May 21, 2001
26,130
4,787
126
Originally posted by: Triumph
That's fine, but the APR's are not close, I understand what the terms mean but I don't understand what you mean when you say they're all the same.
Here is a link for your area with a $165,000 mortgage. I included the first three results that I got from the website, otherwise they are in no particular order. I used $165,000 since that was the default for the website. Your particular data may be different.

From what you can see, the "APR" on those three products is vastly different. They range from 4.77 to 5.41. So, like you said, at first glance, they don't look close. But, these three products aren't as different as they look. First of all the APR isn't the interest rate, that is in the column called rate which in reality vary from 4.5% to 5.25%. Still a big difference. But, if you look at the last column, that only affects your monthly payment by $75 ($911 - $836 = $75).

Lets look at the fees.
1) The top product has 2 points (1.000 origination and 1.000 discount). Thus, to borrow $165k, you'll pay 2*$165,000 / 100 = $3300 in point fees for this product. Also, see there is a fee column that list $1883 in other fees. So, to get that product, you'll have to start off paying the bank $5183. That doesn't include the down payment and it doesn't include the other closing costs (which could be a couple thousand dollars).
2) The total fees for the middle product are $2844.
3) The total fees for the bottom product are $2889.

Thus, if we compare #1 to #2. In the top product you have a 4.5% interest rate only if you give the bank $5183 of your cash. In the middle product, you have a 5.25% interest rate only if you give the bank $2844 in cash. The fees for the top product are $2339 higher. You are paying for that lower interest rate with a lot of your money up front (right when the money is probably the most dear to you). It would take 31 months to gain back that $2339 at $75 per month.

But that isn't all of the picture. Since most people don't have 20% down + closing costs + renovation costs + new furniture costs + bank fee costs, they borrow the bank fees by tacking them into the mortgage. So we shouldn't compare a 4.5% loan at $165,000 to a 5.25% loan at $165,000. Instead we should compare a 4.5% loan at ($165,000 + $5183) to a 5.25% loan at ($165,000 + $2844). The loan itself is smaller with the higher interest rate.

In this case, the REAL monthly payments are $862 for the top product and $927 for the bottom product, only a $65 difference not $75 like it orignally looked. But you are also paying interest on that $2339 in extra fees every month. So, it'll really take 76 months for the top product to finally catch up with the middle product (over 6 years). If you sell the house sooner than 76 months, the middle product with a 5.25% interest rate is CHEAPER than the top product with 4.5% interest rate. If you sell the house later than 76 months, the top product is CHEAPER than the middle product. And in most cases, the difference between the two is very small (other than if you sell at the very extremes like right away or 30 years down the line).

Of course, the real winner is option #3 on the bottom. The fees are as low as option #2, but the interest rate is almost as low as option #1. Only if you keep the house for 16+ years will option #1 finally approach being as good as option #3. But even then, in most cases the difference works out to only be an average of a few dollars a month which is quite small compared to the ~$1000/month payments you'll be making.

* Note: I'm ignoring income tax differences which in the case of buying a house at the end of the year are probably quite small (if any).