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Hey Nino! Thanks for good tip on Iwill KK266 and L7 bridges..

J

JGB

Junior Member
I just wanted to say that the tips you gave about using rear window defogger repair kit to close the L7 as well as L1 bridges worked for me!

Like a lot of people on this board, I got the IWLL KK266 Rev 1.1 with a Duron 800 and I could not get the Duron to boot past 950 and no way would it go to the 133 FSB setting. I was pretty disappointed with this board. After reading your tip that L7 bridges also need to be closed, I thought about it and your explanaition made a lot of sense.

On my way home from work I picked up the repair kit and applied to L1 and L7 bridges. I slapped the CPU back in set the FSB jumper to 133 and pressed the button. The screen actually came on showing DRAM at 133 CLK and the little Duron showing 1062! What a joy! Unbelievable. I went into the BIOS, TurkOC 277, and maxed every memory setting I could find, lowered the multiplier to 6.5 and rebooted. Worked like a charm. I ran some D3D to check for stability and started cranking the bus speed up. It wasn't until I reached 157 FSB that my Micron -7E showed any instability. I ran Sisoft Sandra FPU memory and was greeted with a score of 732 Mb/sec. Cool, definitely DDR territory here.

I backed off a bit (to 155) for stability and the board is now rock stable and truly fast. No problems with anything so far.

Thanks Nino, you are my FRIEND !!
 
Thanks JGB and NO this wasn't a paid advertisement (JGB..the checks in the mail).

I just wish that more people would listen and think before bitching about crappy products when it IS their fault. I'm sure that there are bad boards but don't condemn a board before you try everything you can first.

Thanks a bunch JGB, you've made it all worth while.

Oh yeah, and those of you who think that using lead is the same IT ISN'T SO GET OFF YOUR CHEAP ASSES AND BY THE RIGHT STUFF
 
TRUEEEE!!!!!!!

I have Soltek SL75KAV and my 750 Duron didn't even POST @ 1G, after I close the L7 I run this baby @ 1G 🙂
Also closing the L7 solve the cold boot problem and I believe this solution apply to all KT133A board.
I read about this in many KT133A site, like the one dedicated to MSI K7Tpro2A.

 
Doesn't matter who had the orig post cuz u guys are helping the entire KK266 community including me. I buzzed thru everyones posts and thot i had a prob too but not so. Lucky me i got a v1.1 so now i gotta go buy some Loctite and i'll be good to go. A BIG WELL DONE to u guys specially Nino. You shud get some sorta kickback from IWILL. Thanks from all of us dummies out here that didnt do our homework.
 
nino, does closing the l7's set the voltage to 1.85 by default at bootup?

I would assume this wouldn't be a problem with the Asus board, since you can set a jumper on the board so that it would boot @ 1.85
 
YES, closing all L7 bridge make default voltage to 1.85 volt.
For Asus mobo with dipswitch maybe you don't need to close L7, but you never know until you try.
For my Soltek mobo, I have no problem with multiplier since the mobo using dip switch.
 
The only problem is that you'll boot up at 1.85 volts and then just tweak DOWN the voltage in your bios if you need to.
You can leave it at 1.85 volts but higher voltages mean higher temps. I always find the lowest voltage that allows me to overclock and that is where I leave it.
 
Good news.
Hey gang, I just got an email from an Iwill rep that told me that there is no design difference between the version 1.1 and 1.2. I guess they added a capacitor to the back of the 1.1 boards after manufacturing and now it is incorporated on the "correct" side of the mobo and that is the only significant difference.

Yeah, yeah other than the fact that the 1.2's had problems too because of an improperly located resistor.

 
Hey JGB,
Take a look at the Iwill KK266 Loser post for news about a newer and better Iwill bios release in the NEAR future.
 
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