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Help with car subwoofer downgrade

G

grimlykindo

Senior member
current sub: 12" kicker L7 in massive kicker box
current amp: Kenwwod Excelon Monoblock 600W RMS - 1200W Max @ 2ohms

-Want to downgrade to smaller, less "boomy" sub - thinking about a 10" square: Alpine type-s,
Kicker comp VR, Polk Momo - all of these are DVC, but I am open to SVC.

I need some help in deciding on a small downgrade in a subwoofer for my 99 accord V6 sedan. I had a Kicker 12" L7 for a couple years and its just too boomy and bassy - I need more of a SQ sound instead of just LOUD bass. I have a Kenwwod Excelon monoblock amp that runs at 600W RMS at 2ohms or 1200W max. I kinda wanna keep the amp becuase I like all the options and dials on it, but I need a cheaper (<$150) 10" round sub that can fit in a smaller sealed box (<1.5 cubic feet). I still would like to get some decent volume, but I want more punchy and tight bass instead of just SPL loudness like my square.

Any suggestions?
 
An L7 should still be able to SQ...being you want more trunk space.

what do you listen too....what else you have? I'd kick this to sounddomain for the best answers.
 
If you want SQ you'll want to stay away from kicker. They're pretty much all out SPL type subs. Not sure on the Polks but Alpines gives a good amount of both. Other brands I suggest would be Diamond Audio, JL, Image Dynamics, Fi Audio (good reviews but no personal experience).
 
i would look at a sealed box for a sq sub. Infinity and rockford fosgate have some great stuff too. a 10 should be all you need.
 
Originally posted by: thomsbrain
1. Discover volume control.
2. Profit.
Click to expand...

Volume control does not adjust trunk space.

I know Blaupunkt may not be considered "high-end", but my 12" sub from them (only 200Watts, too...which might be too little for your amp) has a very tight/punchy sound to it without being so tight that any other bass doesn't hold through.

For example, take some extremely fast double bass peddling, and I can hear each kick clearly.

It may not have the best SQ (I think it sounds great, though), but it has plenty of kick, and it's not boomy.

Maybe they make a 10" sub? (Too lazy to look)
 
My favorite strategy for bass was always small drivers in the perfectly sized enclosure. You can do amazing things with 6" or 8" drivers if you know how to design and implement the enclosure. Back in the day when I worked in car stereos my buddy and I rebuilt his whole car stereo. We took out the 15" drivers and built a box with a lot of small ones. We basically picked through a box and used what we had. The biggest were some 6". When done the sound was incredible, much better than the larger muddy bass we had before. Tight and accurate bass is much better in my opinion but with todays crap music I do not know if that applies.
 
Yeah I would like to get a 10" infinity kappa, but they are little expensive - I've been eyeing the Alpine type-s 10" DVC 4ohm - I would wire it paralellel to run it at 2 ohms. I can get one for about $75 shipped and could stick it in a .80 - 1.0 square foot sealed box. It would match my amp pretty good and be much better than my 2.9 square foot ported box (it weighs a fricken ton too).

Does anybody have any experiece with these Alpine type-s? I know someone with 2 alpine type-r 12" subs and they are CRAZY loud, but clean sounding - how do these type-s match up?
 
I have two ID-10V3's from Image Dynamics...good SQ and take a small box. I have them in my rear quarter panels behind the stock trim. They take up no interior room.
 
My roommate has a 12 Type s, and it sounds decent, but everything I've read online says to just go with the Type R. I have a 10" Type R I got for like $90. Sounds great. That is what i would recommend.
 
10" Image Dynamics IDQ series in a sealed box of recommended dimension (the product sheet will tell you, but probably between .8 and 1 cu ft with polyesther filling (walmart sells it cheap, get the non acrylic pillow stuffing, 2 bags).
 
The trunk of your car IS a box - and so is your car interior.
You will have to argue with and possibly threaten an install shop to get them to install your subs with no box, but do it. They will tell you it will suck, etc...
My subs slam and they are not the least bit boomy, and I have my entire trunk.
 
Originally posted by: glen
The trunk of your car IS a box - and so is your car interior.
You will have to argue with and possibly threaten an install shop to get them to install your subs with no box, but do it. They will tell you it will suck, etc...
My subs slam and they are not the least bit boomy, and I have my entire trunk.
Click to expand...

Not all subs can run IB, and most aren't designed for it. Enclosures are VERY specifically designed according to the Thiele/Small parameters of the sub. Your subs may work well in this application, but 95% of drivers aren't designed for it.
 
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