Help with audio cables please, how much can I do myself?

[simas]

in the earlier thread (https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/help-pick-audio-equipment-for-new-house.2493403/) I have asked forum for help with equipment for the new house. Now, with house being purchased and some basic equipment available (Denon AV-X3300W) I would like to identify proper cables to get connecting X330W to pair of SVS SB12-NSD and Elac Unifi line

- what cables should I be looking for (gauge, type, etc.)? Standard audio cable, some Cat6 variant, etc ?
- any way for me to wire it myself to keep it out of sight for backend speakers ? I.e. speaker wire out of receiver to the wall outlet, from the wall outlet down to the wall outlet on the back wall, from the back wall to back speaker.
- I am very comfortable with making my own Cat5/6 cables and done it before but never worked with audio. Anything different to watch for?
- does monoprice sell any of that? what should I be looking for?
- any other advice or comments?

Thank you !

 

[mdram]

its really simple to do.
you can buy wall plates that accept banana connectors
get some 12ga oxygen free copper
run your wires, and have at it

if the subs are powered they use an rca cable, wall plates usually have this built in also

 

[cmdrdredd]

Speaker wire.
https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-2-C...0679&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=speaker+wire&psc=1

Wall plate with all the connections that you can use near your AVR including HDMI and subwoofer if you need that there. Just use smaller plates near where your speakers are to be hooked up (surrounds and subwoofer).
https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Theater-...r=8-1-spons&keywords=speaker+wall+plate&psc=1


single subwoofer wallplate
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Conne...83570874&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+wall+plate

Banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Pl...8&qid=1483570944&sr=1-4&keywords=banana+plugs

In Wall rated subwoofer cable (longer and shorter lengths available)
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-...0&sr=8-1&keywords=mediabridge+subwoofer+cable

HDMI Premium Certified (HDMI 2.0a/b) cable rated for UltraHD HDR use 18Gbps (different lengths available)
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Ce...571292&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+premium+certified

 

[Mike64]

I agree with mdram re solid copper (or rather 100% Cu, vs CCA), and also about the 12AWG. The short version of my long-winded explanation for preferring 12AWG is that even for shorter runs, it might not be "necessary", but is very possibly/probably at least "somewhat superior", and for a long-term installation, I see no point in skimping as far as that's concerned (or at the very least, it's not a complete waste of money like buying ooh-aah-fancy audio cables). And for long runs, the 12AWG is a must.

As far as terminating the cables, the issues with audio cable termination are a bit different than digital, but in general not really "finicky". At least for long-term installations, soldering would be better than just crimping/wrapping, but a tight crimp will "work" fine, too. And while it'll cost more, I would make sure the wire is rated for in-wall use, though that's a fire-safety issue, not an audio/electrical one.

 

[simas]

thank you all, let me review and come back with any questions.

Also, realized I have no idea of TV to buy, will consider starting new thread.

 

[giantpandaman2]

Probably easier/cheaper just to use monoprice.com itself for all the stuff. There's a code for 25% off your order but you might need to be signed up for the email flyer to use it. You could order the cable precut or just a large spool of speaker wire and cut and go (probably the cheapest). Depending on the plugs you buy, you might need a crimper. (Some plugs are screw on...some are crimp on.)

Key Things:
Get CL rated cable for ANYTHING you run behind a wall.
Digital cables can be cheap. For 4k HDR I'd be sure to get cable that can handle 18 Gbps. Do NOT buy from a brick and mortar store unless you plan on spending 2-3x the amount of money you need to for the convenience.
Never use more than 2 active HDMI cables per run. In other words, if you have an active HDMI cable to say a projector from a receiver...make sure none of your source cables to receiver are active HDMI cables. (They shouldn't be necessary for short runs anyhow.)
You don't have to run all cables through walls...you could just run some under your base boards. This is useful for front speakers or your subwoofer.

 

[simas]

Help me with 'Active HDMI' please - what makes it "active"? I have a number of HDMI cables laying around but never thought of it before...

My set up should be fairly simple - everything goes into AVR and AVR goes into TV. Should the cable between receiver and TV be the active one?

Xbox One -- > Denon AVR
Nvidia Shield TV -> Denon AVR
TDB BR player (if needed ) -> AVR
future PS4 -> AVR

AVR -> TV

Yes, I used monoprice for years and think their cables are well priced - just need to know what to get and how to connect.

 

[cmdrdredd]

Help me with 'Active HDMI' please - what makes it "active"? I have a number of HDMI cables laying around but never thought of it before...

My set up should be fairly simple - everything goes into AVR and AVR goes into TV. Should the cable between receiver and TV be the active one?

Xbox One -- > Denon AVR
Nvidia Shield TV -> Denon AVR
TDB BR player (if needed ) -> AVR
future PS4 -> AVR

AVR -> TV

Yes, I used monoprice for years and think their cables are well priced - just need to know what to get and how to connect.

Active cables are more for long runs. I don't use them since my longest run is 6 feet. I do use premium certified cables though for all my HDR devices and my pc to more or less guarantee 18Gbps capability.

 

[Mike64]

Help me with 'Active HDMI' please - what makes it "active"? I have a number of HDMI cables laying around but never thought of it before...

Amplification (micro-)circuitry, basically. Unless you have a habit of buying seriously overpriced HDMI cables, I'm sure you'd know if any of yours have it, since even bargain-priced active cables are quite a bit more expensive than passive ones...

 

[giantpandaman2]

Yeah, active cables are only necessary for long runs. I wouldn't use them otherwise. For stretches of 50'-100' though, they're necessary. (Most commonly used for receiver to projector runs.)

 

[slashbinslashbash]

To terminate your speaker wires (on both ends) I highly recommend dual banana plugs like these:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2944

They will make it a lot easier to connect the wires to your equipment (most decent equipment has the proper spaced banana plugs nowadays). It's literally plug-in instead of having to fiddle with a bunch of stuff that's all tightly spaced and easily confused and you're on your back facing upwards behind your equipment cabinet trying to balance a flashlight while you're fiddling with these stupid knobs to tighten your speaker wire clamps. Massive PITA. Avoid it by getting the banana plugs.

12ga pure copper is the correct answer for the wires themselves.