HELP.... Spark plug removal tool has gotten stuck in the tube

Oct 9, 1999
15,216
3
81
I was changing the spark plugs on my 2009 tsx..

I got the plug out, i put in the new plug, screwed it hand tightened, then used the ratched to tighen a bit..

now the damn spark plug socket is stuck down the hole... how to remove. I did put masking tape on the tool and the extension rod, but apparently it didnt hold... I can get the extension in but I cant pull the damn thing out without it unlocking.

Do I need a bigger magnet tool to remove it. My smaller magnet tool is too weak to pull out the stuff.
 

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,714
31
91
I was changing the spark plugs on my 2009 tsx..

I got the plug out, i put in the new plug, screwed it hand tightened, then used the ratched to tighen a bit..

now the damn spark plug socket is stuck down the hole... how to remove. I did put masking tape on the tool and the extension rod, but apparently it didnt hold... I can get the extension in but I cant pull the damn thing out without it unlocking.

Do I need a bigger magnet tool to remove it. My smaller magnet tool is too weak to pull out the stuff.

How deep is the hole? Maybe a pair of these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-45-offset-jaws-39537.html
 

AMCRambler

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2001
7,714
31
91
Also try putting your socket extension back on the socket and going the opposite direction. Sometimes they bind on if the nut starts to round off and going the other way a little pops them loose and then you can pull it up. Hopefully you didn't torque it that hard. Aluminum heads are pretty soft and you could eff the threads.
 
Oct 9, 1999
15,216
3
81
I didnt torque it .. just an 1/8 or 1/16th turn past finger tight.. the problem is that the stupid tool got stuck...

I'll have to wait to morning to get anything else, since i dont have any place open at this hour that may sell a long needle nose pliers..

great my brother called.. he has a long needle nose pliers and a bigger magnet tool
 

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,118
613
126
Can't you just remove the plug/tool together? Then tape the socket to the extension and try again. Can you tell I've had the same experience?
 
Oct 9, 1999
15,216
3
81
Nutbucket, thats what I did.. I realized half way to my brothers house that I am able to put the socket extension back into the socket, so what if I loosened it and just pulled the whole thing out put more anti-seize and then reassemble..

Well thats what I did.. the thing came out, i pulled the plug out, adjusted it in the socket, more anti seize and then I put more tape on the socket / extension and put it back in. This time I didnt tighten it as much, finger tight plus a even tiny bit from the ratchet


1 down, 3 more to go
 

Pulsar

Diamond Member
Mar 3, 2003
5,224
306
126
Nutbucket, thats what I did.. I realized half way to my brothers house that I am able to put the socket extension back into the socket, so what if I loosened it and just pulled the whole thing out put more anti-seize and then reassemble..

Well thats what I did.. the thing came out, i pulled the plug out, adjusted it in the socket, more anti seize and then I put more tape on the socket / extension and put it back in. This time I didnt tighten it as much, finger tight plus a even tiny bit from the ratchet


1 down, 3 more to go

Wait. Antiwhat? You're not supposed to use anti-seize on sparkplugs.

NGK recommends:
"Do not use anti-seize. Anti-seize reduces electrical and thermal conductivity between the spark plug and head; and increases the installed torque, which can damage head threads. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, or you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued (dry threads), even though your torque wrench says otherwise.

All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body. The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that do not offer a special metal shell plating. Install spark plugs with a compression gasket finger tight until seated and then turn approximately 1/2 to 2/3 turns. Spark plugs without a compression gasket (taper) should be installed finger tight until seated and then turn 1/16 turns.

Racing Spark Plug Installation:
Do not use anti-seize. To install spark plugs in the engine, first tighten them by fingers, then retighten with the right tightening torques as shown below, using a plug wrench. Either excessive tightness or looseness will cause troubles. Looseness sometimes causes pre-ignition because heat cannot disperse. On the other hand, excessive tightness can damage the threads of both the cylinder head and the spark plug."


Champion recommends:
"Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, if using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head."


Autolite recommends:
"We do not recommend anti-seize. Install 14mm plugs in aluminum cylinder head at 20-30 Nm (15 - 22 foot pounds) with CLEAN and DRY threads. We do not recommend the use of any anti-seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti-seize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If anti-seize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.

Anti-seize on the threads of your spark plugs will slow down the rate of heat transfer from the plug to the head. The worst place to use it is on the tapered seat, which is where the most heat transfer occurs between the spark plug and the cylinder head. Even just a small amount of anti-seize is the equivalent of using a hotter heat range spark plug.

Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing.

NOTE: Spark plugs should be installed with clean and dry threads to avoid over-torquing or stretching the spark plug, which can, and often does, result in engine damage."


Denso recommends:
"Do not use anti-seize. Installation Key Points: (1) The threaded area of the cylinder head must be clean. (2) Using your fingers, screw the spark plug into the cylinder head, and tighten about 1/4-1/2 turn with a plug wrench. (Taper seat plug: about 1/16 turn). (3) Tightening too much may cause distortion of the plug housing, and in extreme cases could cause engine damage. Proper installation of the spark plug is important for life and performance of the spark plug. (4) Installation procedures shown above apply to new spark plugs without lubricating the threads.

Torque Recommendations (dry threads). Whenever possible it is recommended that the spark plug should be installed by using a torque wrench. "

Bosch recommends:
"Do not use anti-seize. Bosch small engine spark plugs are constructed with a nickel chromium ground electrode for consistent performance and prolonged service life; Nickel-plated rolled threads offer complete anti-seize and corrosion protection. Built to withstand extreme operating temperatures and give more power, Bosch Super Start is ideal for all small engine applications."
 

twinrider1

Diamond Member
Sep 28, 2003
4,096
64
91
Wait. Antiwhat? You're not supposed to use anti-seize on sparkplugs.

NGK recommends:
"Do not use anti-seize. Anti-seize reduces electrical and thermal conductivity between the spark plug and head; and increases the installed torque, which can damage head threads. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, or you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued (dry threads), even though your torque wrench says otherwise.

All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body. The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that do not offer a special metal shell plating.

Champion recommends:
"Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound,

Autolite recommends:
"We do not recommend anti-seize.

Denso recommends:
"Do not use anti-seize.

Bosch recommends:
"Do not use anti-seize...."

These instruction brought to you by
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. HeliCoil, for all your rethreading needs. :biggrin:

I really did learn something new today.
 

phucheneh

Diamond Member
Jun 30, 2012
7,306
5
0
OP, is the plug just falling out of your socket? Or is the socket coming off the extension?

...or is the socket stuck in the spark tube? 'Cause that can be bad news...usually means the car has 14mm plugs, and a standard chrome 5/8" socket can get pretty damn jammed up. Pulling the valve cover doesn't do anything; the spark tubes are pressed into the head.

If it's just the socket falling off the extension, get a locking one. The kind with a collar that you pull down to release (if you pull without unlocking, the ball on the square bit of the extension will stay locked in place and won't let it come off).

edit: I've never had a problem with antisieze on plugs. They're just afraid of you putting too much torque on them in an aluminum head. But it shouldn't be needed on quality modern plugs.
 
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Throckmorton

Lifer
Aug 23, 2007
16,829
3
0
Had the same thing happen... I panicked for a few minutes then realized I just had to unscrew the spark plug again. The problem is if the tape covers up the square hole and you can't get the extension back in.
 

Jimzz

Diamond Member
Oct 23, 2012
4,399
190
106
I always use a small amount of antisieze on plugs. I agree don't go overboard just a touch of it and never had a problem. Only time I have seen a problem on plugs are ones that did not use antisieze, esp cheap autolites and other noncoated plugs.
 

Midwayman

Diamond Member
Jan 28, 2000
5,723
325
126
Sounds like you need an extension with a locking ball detent rather than just a spring loaded one. My better ratchets have locking detents and they are pretty much impossible to pull off without pushing the button.