HELP: Possible to O/C an A7V without multiplier DIPS?


Junior Member
Jul 22, 2000
I have recently bulit a new Duron 650 system to help in my graduate
research. I upgraded from a P100, so model runs that used to take
days can now be finished in hours. Right now the system is running
'stock' with no overclocking, but my Duron 650 is unlocked with all L1
connects intact! So, I want to try to push it higher so I can
decrease my model run times even more! My problem however, is this:
I ain't got no friggin multiplier DIP switched on the mobo! Her are
my other specs:

Case: Modified Antec KS282
PSU: Antec 300W
Mobo: ASUS A7V with onboard sound and NO DIP SWITCHES
CPU: Unlocked Duron 650 w/ GORB cooler
RAM: 2x128MB Mushkin PC-133 (AMD Approved)
Video: Voodoo 3 1000 16MB (I ain't a gamer)
HD1: IBM 15GB ATA-100 on ATA-100
HD2: IBM 13GB ATA-66 on ATA-66
CD-ROM: Toshiba 40x on ATA-66

That is the hardware. Current setup is jumperless with all mods being
done in the BIOS. Since I am lacking the other 6 multipler DIP
switches, what are my chances of being able to overclock? What is the
best way to overclock this setup? How high should I try to push it?

I am new to all of this (a co-worker suggested I post this) so a
detailed reply would be appreciated. I can build computers fine, I
have just never overclocked them!

Thanks in advance for you assistance.



Senior member
Jul 18, 2000
Jessica, Duron OC article has pics, circuit diagrams, and tips on all the various ways to oc Socket A chips, with and without help from devices on the mobo.

Site explains thoroughly, esp if you understand simple DC pullup resistor signalling might choose to install your own dipsw's...but there are other options as well. Have a good read.
John C.

PS:- Xoom is a freebee site that is slow to download, and/or does not d/l pics and diagrams sometimes during busy/daytimes, try at night if you encounter such problems.
Aug 16, 2000
If you purchased the Mobo not too long ago I would RMA it back to who you bought it from and ask that they send you a switched one. I wouldn't go p*ssyfooting around the board if I were you. Maybe if you only had to play with the bridges on the CPU that might be okay, but I'd rather do it the easiest way possible. Who knows maybe Asus will swap it out for you. Try contacting them at the Asus USA site. I've got a A7V ver 1.01 which I purchased only after I called the retailer and he went to the warehouse to make sure they were ver 1.01 with dipswitches. If I had to do it they though I would've bought an ABIT KT7. I just couldn't wait because I purchased a 700 early on with L1 Bridges intact. I'm currently at 900Mhz at 1.8v. I'm going to change the HSF (heasink/fan) from Gold Orb for Chrome Orb\ and adjust my FSB (Front Side Bus)some. Good luck!


Diamond Member
Jul 23, 2000
you just don't have the board to o/c the best you can do is to increase the FSB settings and even that the most stable would be 103 wich would give you 677. If you really want to take advantage of this baby return or sell the board for the 1.01 or 1.02 version, but then again you won't get sound on those versions, you have the 1.00. But even then I would'nt even recommend taking the Gorb off this settup. The risk/benefits are all yours to take.

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