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Help me fix the A/C on my car

E

Emveach

Senior member
I have a 1993 Plymouth Acclaim that needs its A/C charged. It used to use R12, so I bought the retrofit kit today. I read the instructions where it says to attach it to the low end pressure side, but I have no idea what side of the unit that is. Can anyone please tell me the correct way to do it, so I don't blow the can up in my face and scar myself for life.
 
They will only go on one way. The low side is between the firewall and the compressor. the high side is usually by the drier.

Be aware 134a is way less efficent than r12. it will not be as cold. The oils are also not compatable. The only real way to do it is to get a few new components.

If you don't have AC now, then you can't make it worse 😛
 
Originally posted by: Emveach
Problem is, I don't know squat about cars, so I can't recognize what is what. Got any diagrams?😀
Click to expand...

no offence, but then you should not be doing this. Attaching it the wrong way (if that is even possible) will make the can blow up.

You should have been given 2 adapters. Those screw on to 2 nipples in an aluminum line that is about 1/2" in diameter. The lines will be coming from inside the car. one should be by or on the dryer, which is about the size of a 20oz mountain dew, usually aluminum, and right by the fire wall. This is the high side.

The low side is on the other half, between the firewall and the compressor. The compressor is one of the things on the belt. It should have 2 lines going into the back of it.

Then all you do is put on the adapters, add the new oil, and connect the can up to the low side with the AC on and engine running. Follow the directions so you put in the right amount of 134a. Probably about 2 lb's would be my guess without looking it up.
 
Sadly, this still doesn't make much sense to me. I couldn't find a silver hose. I have a ball shaped thing with a screw valve on top, and thats the only spot that looks like you could put anything in.

If I can find some batteries for my camera, I'll take a pic of my engine, and you or anyone else, could show me what I'm supposed to be seeing.
 
Originally posted by: Emveach
If I can find some batteries for my camera, I'll take a pic of my engine, and you or anyone else, could show me what I'm supposed to be seeing.
Click to expand...

Sure, take a few.
 
I am a licensed AC mechanic for cars. Do not use that kit. You will contaminate the entire system by doing so. Most shops will not touch your cars air conditioning system if that kit has been used as it will contaminate their equipment (and recycling machines start at $1000 on the cheap side.) As was said previously, if you connect that can to the high side, it can blow up. R-134 high side pressures are higher than R-12s and that little can is not designed to handle 200+PSI. If you wish to have a conversion done so your AC works, take it to a shop and have it professionally done with a compressor and drier replacement along with all of the seals/o-rings and the lines, condensor and evaporator flushed out.

The referigerant oils used with R-12 and R-134 are totally incompatable and can cause problems if not flushed out. Conversions generally cost about the same as fixing a leaky R-12 systems. With an R-12 system, the biggest cost is the refrigerant.
 
Do you have an estimated idea as to what it would cost to have a shop do it? I can always return the kit, I just want A/C back in my car. Living in Ohio during the summer is brutal without it.
 
Do it right . Look around on google and you will find an auto AC site ( I don't have it bookmarked anymore ) . Anyway , I presume your system is empty of R12 which is why you are converting over . You need to get all of the old oil(compressor oil ) of of they system which will require removal of the compressor with draining and flushing and flushing all of the rest of the system and replacing the drier ( R134 requires a different type of oil) . The system should be placed under a 28"-30" vacuum ( you can rent a vacum pump and guages) for a couple of hours then checked for leaks (should hold vacuum ) before refilling .
 
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