Help me find a capacitor please :)

[xSeongminx]

Bump for some help.

 

[rise]

what help? i thought the card was in someone elses hands now?

imo, you should've sent it into sapphire and played dumb. thats BS that they won't cover that, unless of course you were negligent.

i messed up an evga card by snapping off a cap or resistor (i dunno, i just know it snapped ) and they took it back no problem.

anyway, good luck. and be specific as to the help you want now. i thought you sent it to someone.

 

[xSeongminx]

Sorry for not updating. I gave it to someone at my school that I met through guru3d.com. He couldn't fix it, so he suggested that I find a similar capacitor to solder on instead.

 

[xSeongminx]

Also, Sapphire said that they wouldn't take back physically damaged cards (I have the email still...). I didn't break it, it broke in USPS hand's...

 

[imported_ST]

it is a mid cap...tantulum, probably decoupling for power. i'd say on the order of 226uF. pretty common...just take it to your neighborhood electronics goodie shop. i wouldn't stress too much, should work fine. most deisgners add in bulk caps around Vcc to lessen ripple noise...

 

[Born2bwire]

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...l?Detail?Ref=105466&Row=400503&Site=US

Originally posted by: xSeongminx
Well, I had someone look over the card and try to reapply the capacitor to the board but it was just too small, and since the legs had been broken, there was no way to solder or fix the capacitor to it's origional state. However, he did do a test using a multimeter and everything checked out, so all we need is a capacitor with the following rating...

+226C
53 1HL

http://www.angelfire.com/blog/test206/video_card/

Thanks in advance, and the person who finds it will recieve a little "gift" in the form of paypal.

That looks and sounds like a AVX made TAJ series 22uF surface mount resistor. The 226C denotes 22uF with a "C" size case. The 22 denotes 22 as the coefficient and the 6 denotes the multiplier(and thus 22uF). The 53 should be the voltage rating but doesn't make sense. It would make sense if it was 63, meaning 6.3V. Anyway, here's the datasheet for the cap, http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/AVX/Web%20Data/TAJ%20Standard%20Tantalum.pdf, and here's a link to a 25V version at digikey http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...l?Detail?Ref=109132&Row=400503&Site=US. If you're sure that it says 53, then I would get the 25V version just to be sure (though I'm sure the required voltage rating is probably 6.3 V, still it doesn't hurt to get the larger voltage if unsure and it won't really cost any different, though you will want to get more than one). Digikey only has the C sized versions in 20V or 25V, but they do make the 6.3V version in size C.

Just to clarify though. SMD parts are leadless. These caps only have a strip of metal along the side and bottom. You have to heat this strip of metal and the pad to melt the solder and create the joint. Personally, I prefer to use solder paste for this. Kester makes a decent one. Just put it into a syringe and keep it in your refridgerator (the cold helps it to flow easier but don't eat it) and you can easily squirt a little of the solder onto a pad, place the part ONTOP of the solder and make a very good solder joint that way. The ease of application of the solder and the ability to have the solder flow beneath the pads as well along the side makes it my preference.


EDIT: You could probably try to put on a discrete capacitor in an axial or radial package that has leads. But the size and weight of the cap would be a problem. The main problem is that the strength of the solder bond is what holds the part to the pads and a full size cap would probably be too heavy for this. Plus the leads coupled with the close space of the pads would make it prone to shorting.

Also, when you solder it on, be mindful of the polarity of the cap. The board has the positive side silkscreened for you (the +), Make sure that the side of the cap with the band is on the + side as with the other capacitors.

EDIT EDIT: Heh, you could probably e-mail Sapphire and ask what capacitor they used for part C39 on the board just to be sure.

 

[xSeongminx]

Wow, that is great info Born and ST, but Born, if you look at my link with the pics, it clearly says 53, which is very odd. I'll just stick with the 25V since it is better to be safe than sorry, and so I was just wondering as to which 25V capacitor to use. When I searched on digikey, I got 4 hits for 25V's. Please denote which one I should use by the 8 digits in front of each entry.


478-1729-1-ND TAJD226K025R CAP TANTALUM 22UF 25V 10% SMD AVX Corporation 22µF 25V ±10% TAJ 7343-31 (EIA) Cut Tape (CT) General Purpose 125°C

478-1729-2-ND TAJD226K025R CAP TANTALUM 22UF 25V 10% SMD AVX Corporation 22µF 25V ±10% TAJ 7343-31 (EIA) Tape & Reel (TR) General Purpose 125°C

478-1712-1-ND TAJC226K025R CAP TANTALUM 22UF 25V 10% SMD AVX Corporation 22µF 25V ±10% TAJ 6032-28 (EIA) Cut Tape (CT) General Purpose 125°C

478-1712-2-ND TAJC226K025R CAP TANTALUM 22UF 25V 10% SMD AVX Corporation 22µF 25V ±10% TAJ 6032-28 (EIA) Tape & Reel (TR) General Purpose 125°C


Btw, what is Cut Tape and Tape & Reel? Thanks and LMK.

EDIT: So do I need a solder to heat up the Kester Solder Paste or do I just apply the paste and stick the capacitor on it? Sorry for the newb questions, I don't know jack about capacitors/soldering xP.

 

[Born2bwire]

Whoops, never realized that the search expires. The part number I had referenced is:
478-1712-1-ND, or the TAJC226K025R Cut tape. The difference between cut tape and tape and reel is the packaging and the minimum amounts that you can order. For TR, you're usually looking at a minimum order of a few hundred units while CT can be for single or groups of 5, 10, etc. In this case, you can buy a single cap for $1.05. If possible, I would make certain of the package size. The C package is 6mm long and 3.2 mm wide. On the first page of the datasheet above you can find the dimensions of the different packages. I'm spoiled as I have access to calipers but you may be able to use a ruler to at least double check that it is size C and not A or B by the length. And from the width you could probably see that it is not D, E, or V. It would probably not be economically feasible for you to order the solder paste. First, it's $42 a tube from Digi-key. And second, they have to ship at least by two day air to ensure the integrity of the product. If you were to use it, yes you would need a soldering iron (plus you would want to get your own syringe to dispense the solder). The paste is not so much a glue, it has the consistency of a paste. It's mostly just flux, the advantage is that you can easily apply it to a SMD pad (or go across multiple small pads for dense IC's) and just heat up the pads. The flux will evaporate and the solder will flow right on to the pad. The ease at which the solder will flow onto the nearest pad makes it less prone to solder bridges than with solid solder, plus it allows you to free up a hand the otherwise would be holding the wire of solder. You can do just as well with solid solder, but I would recommend you find some with a small diameter to make it easier. If you are using the solid solder wire, place and hold the part down on the board (use a good set of tweezers) and place the tip of the iron so that it makes contact both with the pad on the board and with the pad on the side of the cap. Then bring the solder wire in to melt and create the joint. If I have to do this I usually use the hand with the tweezers to hold the solder as well. A magnifying glass would also be very helpful to make sure that you have the part positioned and soldered correctly. In the lab, we actually have a video camera hooked up to a TV with a macro lense on it as our SMD station.

Two caps, handling, and shipping will probably run you around $12-$15. If your buddy has experience soldering, you may want to try and get him to attach the part for you. SMD is not like doing discrete components, but it certainly helps if you have had some experience. Ideally you would want access to a SMD station that has a device to magnify your work area. This is doable with solid core solder and by the naked eye. I've had to do repairs to my Creative Nomad Zen while on vacation.

 

[xSeongminx]

Btw, what difference does it make if I use the caps that look like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/PHILIPS-CAPACITOR-2...6QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[CKXP]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
I'm pretty sure those are resistors.

Have you tried it? I remember one came off on my 6800GT and never had a problem...

what a coincedence same thing happened to my 6800gt.

 

[Born2bwire]

Originally posted by: xSeongminx
Btw, what difference does it make if I use the caps that look like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/PHILIPS-CAPACITOR-2...6QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

As I stated above, the problem would be mounting it to the card in a secure manner. The axial and radial packages are meant to be mounted with a through-hole where you can achieve a secure joint in and around the lead and hole. If you solder one of these onto a SMD pad, you may run into problems of the part breaking off in the future. First, since it will have to sit away from the card you will get some added leveraging. You will need to trim the leads as short as possible to prevent the leads from being shorted with eachother and to minimize the amount of torque that can occur should the part be bumped.