Help me decide my watercooling setup.

[atybimf]

My Opty 165 idles around 30-32C and loads around 49C or so. I'm surprised my x1900xt hasn't melted yet after idling around 50-53C and loading in the 80C's. Both are on stock cooling. So, I'm in the market for new cooling. I was thinking about spending $100-$120 for a Scythe Ninja and Nexus fan and a VF900, but at that cost, why not watercool?

This will be my first experience with watercooling. I'd like to keep it reasonably priced ($200 would be ideal, $250 max) but also perform up to my standards. Here's the potential setup as of now:

AquaXtreme 50Z pump
Swiftech MCW6002-64 cpu block
DD Maze4 gpu block
Swiftech MCR-220 rad w/ 2x120mm Yate Loon fans
ClearFlex 60 tubing
Vantec Iceberg copper BGA RAMsinks
6oz. Zerex
some cheap res

total: around $200-$215

Watercooling experts, I need your input!

Edit: I updated the list. This looks like it'll be my final list. Input appreciated.

 

[slsmnaz]

Some good items on there.

Isn't that Hydor pump AC powered? It would need to be directly wired. Stick w/ the 50Z.

The MP-05 is a good choice for a lower $$. Storm is said to be better but I haven't seen any reviews that say how much.

Be sure to order the ramsinks w/ the maze4. I have said this before but I forgot and it delayed my build

Also, use a t-line and it will save you a couple of bucks.

Clearflex is good. I used 7/16 and it was tough to get on the barbs but I know it won't come off.

 

[Snerp]

Go with the Apogee, it's solid. The only people that talk badly about it are people who haven?t owned one and need to justify the extra $40 they spent on their storm I'd go with the Danger Den D5 or the Swiftech MCP-655 (same pump made by Lang). Go with the BIX instead of the BIP...I've been told by many reliable sources (i.e. people who have been watercooling since the dawn of time) there is a flow drop with the BIP, but there will always be someone saying "no that isn't true".

If you want a really cheap solution to a rad, just get a non-A/C Pontiac Bonneville Heatercore for a 67' (I think) from an auto parts shop. Make a shroud for it and strap your fans on it and you're out only $30-40 for temps equal to the BIX II. Look it up at Overclock.net

 

[atybimf]

Originally posted by: slsmnaz
Some good items on there.

Isn't that Hydor pump AC powered? It would need to be directly wired. Stick w/ the 50Z.

The MP-05 is a good choice for a lower $$. Storm is said to be better but I haven't seen any reviews that say how much.

Be sure to order the ramsinks w/ the maze4. I have said this before but I forgot and it delayed my build

Also, use a t-line and it will save you a couple of bucks.

Clearflex is good. I used 7/16 and it was tough to get on the barbs but I know it won't come off.

Yeah, I was a little iffy on the Hydor. Thanks for the reminder on ramsinks!

Originally posted by: Snerp
Go with the Apogee, it's solid. The only people that talk badly about it are people who haven?t owned one and need to justify the extra $40 they spent on their storm I'd go with the Danger Den D5 or the Swiftech MCP-655 (same pump made by Lang). Go with the BIX instead of the BIP...I've been told by many reliable sources (i.e. people who have been watercooling since the dawn of time) there is a flow drop with the BIP, but there will always be someone saying "no that isn't true".

If you want a really cheap solution to a rad, just get a non-A/C Pontiac Bonneville Heatercore for a 67' (I think) from an auto parts shop. Make a shroud for it and strap your fans on it and you're out only $30-40 for temps equal to the BIX II. Look it up at Overclock.net

I'm not too hip on the Bonneville Heatercore, but I'll check into the BIX. I chose the BIP because I am looking for a degree of silence, but I can sacrifice it for better performance as long as the BIX isn't too expensive. I'll check into the Apogee and DD D5.

Thanks guys!

Edit: I can get a BIP II for $37, whereas I can get a BIX II for $57 and price is a big deal with me. I could get the BIX I for $41, but I dunno if a single fan rad will be enough. Any links about the flow problems with the BIP? Because right now it's lookin' pretty good.

 

[atybimf]

Alright, I've come up with a new list:

Swiftech Apogee
DD Maze4
AQX 50Z
BIX w/ high output Panaflo
tubing, res, clamps, ramsinks, etc.

total: around $230-$235

My main issue is whether the BIX will be enough. I figure that with a pump like the 50Z and a high output Panaflo I should be fine, but I'm not sure. Also, I'd really like to get the price closer to $200, but I don't think there is anything else I can sacrifice to get the cost down. About all I could do is get the Hydor L30 instead of the 50Z which would knock off $40, but it's AC and I'm getting mixed responses from people on it.

 

[slsmnaz]

Originally posted by: atybimf
Alright, I've come up with a new list:

Swiftech Apogee
DD Maze4
AQX 50Z
BIX w/ high output Panaflo
tubing, res, clamps, ramsinks, etc.

total: around $230-$235

My main issue is whether the BIX will be enough. I figure that with a pump like the 50Z and a high output Panaflo I should be fine, but I'm not sure. Also, I'd really like to get the price closer to $200, but I don't think there is anything else I can sacrifice to get the cost down. About all I could do is get the Hydor L30 instead of the 50Z which would knock off $40, but it's AC and I'm getting mixed responses from people on it.

Looks like a pretty good set-up. If you're using the dual rad it will be fine and from your total $$ I assume you are. Not sure how a single will handle the CPU and GPU in your loop.

The Hydor is a good pump it's just most people would rather run their pump off their current PSU.

 

[Snerp]

The BIP II will give you better temps than a single BIX. Look into the Ehiem 1250 as a cheap pump. That's what I'm running and I got it for $26 shipped off of ebay.

 

[atybimf]

Here's my list as of now:

Hydor L35
Swiftech Apogee
DD Maze4
BIP II w/ a couple Panaflo's
ramsinks, tubing, clamps, res, etc.

total: around $215-$225

That's more like it .

 

[Kakumba]

As has been said, BIX, not BIP. otherwise digging that loop. BIX II will dissipate around twice as much heat as a BIP II according to their numbers. just remember to use 120X120X38 mm fans on it...

 

[Praxis1452]

BIX is for high flow fans. Otherwise use BIP

 

[atybimf]

So with a 1/2in. setup of a HydorL35, Swiftech Apogee, and DD Maze4, go with the BIP II or BIX II?

 

[TheRyuu]

If you don't mind a little noise, get the BIX(II). If you want a near silent PC, get the BIP3 and stick 3 very quiet Yate Loon's on it.

What about the MCP655 (D5) pump? Too expensive?

 

[atybimf]

Originally posted by: wizboy11
What about the MCP655 (D5) pump? Too expensive?

Yep. I really want to keep the price near $200.

 

[Painman]

Hmm... on the Rad side, you could go with a Swiftech MCR220 dualie and a pair of Yate Loon 120x25 - total of $48 plus shipping at Jab-Tech. Probably a tad cheaper than BIP II plus Panaflos, depends on source but Jab is pretty competititve. If you really want to run 38mm fans though, you might want to stick with BIP. Swifty uses hard to find (in the US) Metric M1.5 screws to mount fans, and they only give you ones for 25mm fans. So you can go on a wild goose chase for M1.5 screws, or (like me) tap the screwholes out for #6/32 screws, if you want to run the Swifty with 38s.

Swifty MCW60 GPU block (NOT the MCW60-B) comes with set of copper ramsinks included, that kit usually runs about 60 bucks. It's basically an Apogee for the GPU, works well, low restriction. Might be $5 or so cheaper than getting separate block and RAMsinks.

Also, check your PMs

 

[Kakumba]

Originally posted by: Praxis1452
BIX is for high flow fans. Otherwise use BIP

like I said, 38mm fans. I dont think there are many low CFM 38mm fans around.....

Also, what coolant? well, additive really. but what are you planning on using?

 

[atybimf]

Originally posted by: Kakumba

Originally posted by: Praxis1452
BIX is for high flow fans. Otherwise use BIP

like I said, 38mm fans. I dont think there are many low CFM 38mm fans around.....

Also, what coolant? well, additive really. but what are you planning on using?

Zerex?

 

[atybimf]

Updated the potential setup in the OP. I'm very happy with it's price and performance. This is most likely the setup I'm going to do. Thanks everyone. If you have any more input, let me know.

 

[atybimf]

 

[soloz2]

hey, looks like you've got a pretty good setup there!

this is what I'm currently running:

Swiftech apogee cpu block
polarflo tt gpu block (maze 4 mounting hardware)
Hydor L35 pump (just got a Swiftech MCP655 today so will be switching)
DD clear single 5/14" bay res
double heater core (modded 77 bonnie) I painted it black
2x tt thunderblade fans
fluid: distilled water w/ 5% zerex and frozencpu blue uv dye

I got the new pump because the Hydor L35 was too loud for my liking. it's a great pump, but just too loud for me.

my cpu loads at about 32-34 degrees and my gpu loads under 40.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: atybimf
My Opty 165 idles around 30-32C and loads around 49C or so. I'm surprised my x1900xt hasn't melted yet after idling around 50-53C and loading in the 80C's. Both are on stock cooling. So, I'm in the market for new cooling. I was thinking about spending $100-$120 for a Scythe Ninja and Nexus fan and a VF900, but at that cost, why not watercool?

This will be my first experience with watercooling. I'd like to keep it reasonably priced ($200 would be ideal, $250 max) but also perform up to my standards. Here's the potential setup as of now:

Hydor L35 pump
Swiftech Apogee cpu block
DD Maze4 gpu block
Swiftech MCR-220 rad w/ 2x120mm Yate Loon fans
ClearFlex 60 tubing
Vantec Iceberg copper BGA RAMsinks

total: around $200

Watercooling experts, I need your input!

Everything looks fine for starters, except the pump. For $25 more you can have a D5 which has a superior performance curve and extended usage characteristics.

 

[Kakumba]

good choice on the Zerex. I still reckon the D5 for the pump. solid choice, or an Eheim 1250. other than that, go ahead and order.

 

[HardWarrior]

Conventional wisdom says that Zerex alone may not work as advertised. Made for water-cooling additives have the distinction of being designed for the task at hand.

 

[nealh]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Conventional wisdom says that Zerex alone may not work as advertised. Made for water-cooling additives have the distinction of being designed for the task at hand.

Hmm..The hardcore water coolers over at xtremesystems seem to think Zerex is a good choice.....what wisdom says this is not a good idea

BTW many advocate no additive and just the use of distilled water

 

[Kakumba]

Check out Xtremesystems.org forums. Zerex ftw over there, and I agree. really, no other additives are worth it. MCT is pretty conductive and doesnt help your temps. every UV/ dye I've seen was crap, not much colour, lost its UV really fast etc. Zerex is good.

Besides, conventional wisdom says keep 2 litres of water out of computer.....

Edit: yarrr, forgot the "R" in litres.

 

[VballCoach]

go here if you want to know how to w/c

http://www.ocforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=71

read the stickies prior to asking questions..lots of info there

procooling.com is also real good