HELP - Hard time with new Duron 750 and KK266

[White Widow]

Okay, I just came home with my new Duron750 and KK266, and I am having a hard time with this setup.

I have tried to unlock the Duron about 10 times - first with a normal pencil, then with a mechanical penicl using both 0.5mm and 0.3mm graphite with hardness H and HB. I also used a magnifying glass to be SURE that the separate L1 bridges were not touching. Nevertheless, when I try to change the multiplier in the BIOS, the computer POSTs at 8.5x100 regardless of what I set, expect 7.5 (default) in whic case it works fine.

When I change the FSB, I can go as high as 128, but it won't even POST at 129.

Also, when I change the FSB jumper from 100 to 133, the PC speaker emits this "failure" tone (high-then-low) and immediately displays the following message:

--
Award BootBlock BIOS v1.0

BIOS ROM checksum error
Keyboard Error or no keyboard present

Detecting floppy A media
INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER
--

There is NO POST or anything, just straight to that screen. WTF??

What else should I do? How much graphite needs to be on the L1's?

Any advice would be really appreciated. I am DYING to unlock this bad boy.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[arod324]

You don't have enough voltage going to it right now. Try that first. If not, try to redo the bridges....

 

[White Widow]

Are you saying that I need to increase the VCORE to get the unlock working? I have tried upping the core all the way to 1.85 (which is actually 1.92v on this MB) and I get the same effects. This was also how I had the voltage set when I went for 133FSB and got that crazy message.

-Aaron

 

[White Widow]

Another interesting twist. I upped the VCORE to 1.80v and tried to adjust the multipler. Now, at this higher voltage, the system runs a 5.0xFSB no matter what I set in BIOS, even the default of 7.5. Only when I set the multipler to "AUTO" will it run at 7.5x100. Does this indicate my L1's are crossed?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[AirJames]

I went crazy w/ this problem as well. I had the same problem with the Epox 8Kta+ and with an Abit KT7. I only got it to post at overclocked speeds w/ the Epox. At some of the multipliers, it would hang or reset to the default speed. The Abit just didn't change multipliers when I didn't redo the L1 after every heatsink change. I upped the voltage, redid the L1 bridges, setting bios settings to default. Some motherboards are just picky and need A LOT of patience but I mostly found it was my penciling. A conductive pen may solve your problems.

 

[zzzz]

Have you connected the L7 bridges by any chance???

 

[White Widow]

Thanks for the response. I have since re-penciled the L1's a few times, and I'm pretty sure it's just that I'm not getting them connectd quite right. Each time I redo it, I can get certain multipliers at certain VCORE settings, but never all of them. I figure the multiplers I can get eac time somehow correspond to the particular L1's that are done "correctly" and those that are not. I gues I'll have to wait and buy a conductive pen to know for sure.

I went and bought one of those defrose repair kist...bad idea. The stuff is really hard to put on correctly, and requires lots of mixing. Can anyone point me toward a good place to buy a conductive pen?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[White Widow]

A little update -

I seem to be having the same problems with an unlocked Duron 750 on my rev 1.2 KK266 as many others. Once I connected the L7's it will run at 1000MHz (yes!) at 1.85v, but when I try and adjust the multiplier it goes all over the place. When the FSB is set at 100MHz, the board will usually give me a multiplier of 8x or 5x no matter what I set in BIOS. At 133MHz FSB, the board will not POST no matter what multiplier I set - even though it runs fine at AUTOx133FSB=1000. I am using the conductive pen to connect the L1's, so I figure that is not the problem.

Has anyone RMA'ed the board to Iwill yet? Are they responsive? I have heard mixed reviews. It's too bad I ordered this more than 30 days ago from NewEgg, and had it sitting on my shelf until a few days ago.

On the plus side, 1000MHz with the TurkOC BIOS gives some impressive scores. I can run Prim95 all night without a problem, but it will barf after about 10 minutes of the Torture test. I guess I'll just mod the chip for a 7x multiplier and run at 133x7.0=933 for 100% stability. Hopefully, Iwill can get this right...

-Aaron

 

[Superdoopercooper]

White widow... check this thread for KK266 v1.2 RMA info. (it is a thread with a link to overclockers.com)

 

[hoihtah]

white widow...

my friend seems to be having the same problem as you...
and i'd appreciate it if you could point out some tips.

first, you said that you're using conductive pen. what kind and where(if online) did you get it? my friend and i did it with a mechanical pencil and it seems to have unlocked his duron 800, but we're wondering if conductive pen will help it post at 133fsb.

second, TurkOC BIOS ... where did you get that?
thanx a bunch

 

[White Widow]

Ok - first of all, Iwill is recalling many of the Rev 1.2 boards. You can read about it here. If the multiplier is working, however, then his board is probably fine. To get to 133MHz, you MUST "pencil" or otherwsie connect the L7 bridges so the chip willd efault to 1.85v. Otherwise, even if you set 1.85v in the BIOS, the motherboard will FIRST try to post at defualt voltage, then up it to whatever you specified in BIOS after. This is what worked for me. If th pencil works, then you don't need a conductive pen, unless you want to make a more permanent conenction. I got mine a Radio Shack online. Search for "CircuitWriter" on the site. Use a toothpic or needle to apply it.

As for the TurcOC BIOS, go here.

-Aaron

 

[cookj]

I had to cross the L7,and now my 800 duron`s stable at 1000,I havent tried any higher yet.7.5*133

 

[hovenas]

I tried to apply Conductive ink with a sewing needle, but it didn't work out well, so I took a pencil, sharpened it and applied FAT lines (looked horrible) of conductive ink, crossing over the points completly, but not crossing the different bridges. That really did it for me.

 

[Pers]

white widow..was the problem the pencil or ur mobo??

 

[White Widow]

The problem was definately the motherboard. I got my replacement from Iwill today and everything works great. To think, I re-penciled that chip like 20 times...oh well. I even bought a conductive pen, thinking the graphite might be the problem. The pen works great, though, and I'll never have to "redo" it like those who pencil.

I would recommend this board to anyone. Users on a budget might look at the Epox too, since it is by far the cheapest of the Kt133a boards; retail's for around $115.

-Aaron