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Help finding a good HT Sub

I am no expert, neither do I own anything like this but this is what almost everyone recommends



Or this

 
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Diy. Parts Express sells kits, woofers, boxes and amps. Or Madisound or Meniscus.
You will get a lot more boom for your buck by diy.
 
marincounty said:
Diy. Parts Express sells kits, woofers, boxes and amps. Or Madisound or Meniscus.
You will get a lot more boom for your buck by diy.
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The PE kits are OUTSTANDING. You cannot possibly go wrong there. At 400 you can pick up a Titanic 10" with 250wat RMS amp. Or go nuts at 900 with the dual 12" 950W RMS job.
 
Cstefan said:
The PE kits are OUTSTANDING. You cannot possibly go wrong there. At 400 you can pick up a Titanic 10" with 250wat RMS amp. Or go nuts at 900 with the dual 12" 950W RMS job.
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I went with:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-15-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7097

for $268.....

Pick whatever amp you want to go with it after that.

I went with (But you only need the NU3000 to run it for $230)
http://www.parts-express.com/behrin...0-watt-four-channel-power-amplifier--248-6800
for $350. Requires a fan mod to make quite which I have not done. Why? My Subs are hooked on this amp. If it's on, my subs are on, I can't hear the fan 95% of the time so really don't care. Otherwise, I just keep it off. It also runs my surrounds on the other 2 channels. I just listen 3.0 if I'm just browsing the internet and turn on the subs/surrounds for music/movies.

That's just what I did though and to tell you that the experience finishing has been great. Far better than what I could have gotten purchasing a $500-600 sub.

I'd say definitely build if you have the time and the money and the equipment to do so. Since I know I'm building every piece of my system after building my subwoofer (and I've followed DIY speaker community for awhile so I've been learning about how great the speakers are and the SEOS speakers), I felt the equipment purchase was well justified considering how little equipment you need to assemble a speaker kit or subwoofer kit.

It's really whether you want to spend the time to do it really. It's not hard, it's extremely easy if you've ever used power tools before so I'd definitely recommend doing it.

It's really how hard you make it depending on the finish. The harder finish you choose the harder it is. If you just throw 2 coats of duratex and call it a day you have a great looking speaker/sub that was easy to build and performs amazingly well compared to the price you pay.

Personally I recommend you start with a 15 inch or 18 inch sub from the dayton ultimax line but that's probably out of your price range.
 
tential said:
Personally I recommend you start with a 15 inch or 18 inch sub from the dayton ultimax line but that's probably out of your price range.
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I wouldn't. Personally (and this is from experience in my car audio days) I would prefer 2x 6" or 8" subs over one big one, even mounted isobaric to save space. It was my experience it produced cleaner sound with less effort.
 
gorb said:
http://www.data-bass.com/myths
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Definitely a myth. I've heard terrible subs and owned a ton of them especially budget small sub's. My 8-10 inch sub's don't even deserve to mentioned in the same sentence...

Op there are a lot of audio myths out there. It's why lots of people recommend directly on avsforum as you'll get less misinformation. I've heard this misinformation from a lot of car audio guys not sure why.
 
tential said:
Definitely a myth. I've heard terrible subs and owned a ton of them especially budget small sub's. My 8-10 inch sub's don't even deserve to mentioned in the same sentence...

Op there are a lot of audio myths out there. It's why lots of people recommend directly on avsforum as you'll get less misinformation. I've heard this misinformation from a lot of car audio guys not sure why.
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It must be true... I read it on the Internet!

Beauty is in the ear of the beholder! 😀 It worked for me, YMMV. And maybe I'm all wet... a lot of the guys running big subs bought cheap ones, and/or cheap amps.... and, granted, this was 20 years ago, too.
 
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Charlie98 said:
It must be true... I read it on the Internet!

Beauty is in the ear of the beholder! 😀 It worked for me, YMMV. And maybe I'm all wet... a lot of the guys running big subs bought cheap ones, and/or cheap amps.... and, granted, this was 20 years ago, too.
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Check some of the measurements of the various subs on the site. The lowest distortion drivers are the bigger ones 🙂
 
Charlie98 said:
It must be true... I read it on the Internet!

Beauty is in the ear of the beholder! 😀 It worked for me, YMMV. And maybe I'm all wet... a lot of the guys running big subs bought cheap ones, and/or cheap amps.... and, granted, this was 20 years ago, too.
Click to expand...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/

You're severely limiting yourself if you're pickingn only 6/8 inch subs in a home theater setting. It's the equivalent of limiting yourself to only 100 hp in a race car.

Car Audio scene has a lot of people trying to make a lot of noise while ignoring audio fidelity (there are audio heads of course but the number of people just trying to get loud bass without articulation is much higher than home theater).

Home theater especially just isn't suited or small subs by the laws of physics.
 
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