HELP: DIY project stucked (projector, wiring, drywall)

bleuless

Senior member
Jul 25, 2001
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0
76
Hi,

I have run into a problem trying to install my projector, all help and ideas are greatly appreciated.

basically i am trying to hide all my cables behind the drywall, however, i discovered that the projector is actually mounted above my "ceiling". since i have a vaulted ceiling, where the projector is going is actually above the real ceiling line. So when i try to drop the cables down, it is being blocked off by my ceiling "joists". I think that's what they are called, they look like 2 2x4s mounted with 4 inches being vertical.

from the pictures below you can see that there appear to be an existing power outlet that is skinny enough to go between the 2 joist boards. however, i can't fit anything big (my power plug and/or DVI plugs) through the space. the drywall pretty much goes right up to the joist board, so i am out of ideas where can i possibly fit those cables and connectors through.

I need to fit the standard 3 pprongpower connector, DVI connector, through it, so my projector can be on the ceiling and all the wiring will run in the wall down behind my sofa then come out of the wall there.

behind the wall is another room. from the way i have cut the drywall already, i hope you guys can tell that i am a total amateur, any advice with low difficulty would be greatly appreciated.

can this DIY project be saved? or should i cut my losses and put my drywall back.

pic 1
pic 2
pic 3
 

Gand1

Golden Member
Nov 17, 1999
1,026
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76
Looks like you will need to drill holes through the joists. Your only other option is wire moulding.

Though... what's on the other side of the wall??

I hope you ot using the two shelf mounts for a shelf where you want the projector. The kinda look like ass. If your original intention is to make this look good, find a better shelf solution.

A good all around solution for stuff
 
Jun 27, 2005
19,216
1
61
Rent one of these. Use a 2" version of the first bit on the list under the hole hawg (drill). It's called an auger bit. Problem solved.

PS... Hole Hawgs are VERY powerful. Be careful when you use it. If you don't properly brace yourself and it catches... you could break your arm.
 

bleuless

Senior member
Jul 25, 2001
437
0
76
yeah originally it was on the shelf, now its go up on the ceiling, notice the black ceiling mount on pic 1. i am hestitant to drill through the joists, as there is atleast 4 inches if not 6 inches to be drilled, and it might affect framing (we have plenty of earthquake in california)

the other side is my bedroom.
 

Slacker

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
8,623
33
91
Do they make ribbon wire for your application? I have seen wires that run along the seam and get mudded over.

or....... pick one of the following.

1: Cut ~n~ Splice the wires.
2: Drill between the joists to enlarge the existing opening.
3: Call a PRO.
 

bleuless

Senior member
Jul 25, 2001
437
0
76
i've never seen inside a DVI wire... but i do like the cut and splice idea. do you think its reasonable to do it on the DVI cable as well?

also, i checked the opening between the joists, it is actually blocked off by another board it seems... !@#$%
 

LordMorpheus

Diamond Member
Aug 14, 2002
6,871
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0
How are you managing heat issues with the projector. If it can't breathe it will overheat and die in 10 minutes. Make sure you give it enough airflow to keep it cool.
 

Crucial

Diamond Member
Dec 21, 2000
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Originally posted by: bleuless
i've never seen inside a DVI wire... but i do like the cut and splice idea. do you think its reasonable to do it on the DVI cable as well?

also, i checked the opening between the joists, it is actually blocked off by another board it seems... !@#$%

More than likely the top of the wall where the ceiling would have been were it not for the vaulted ceiling. I would just chisel out enough of the 2 side by side boards and drill a hole down through the board underneath. Make sure there isn't a stud right below where you are trying to run the cables.

Good luck patching that textured surface. It's never going to match fully.

edit: after looking at the pics again it looks like the 2 side by side boards are right next to each other. If there is no gap between them I would try and drill right down in between them. I would think a gap would make drilling a pain in the butt. I am not an expert though so who knows.
 

bleuless

Senior member
Jul 25, 2001
437
0
76
some projectors are designed so that its meant to be ceiling mountable, so they blow heat out front. and i am not that worried because they are meant to be ceiling mounted.



 

bleuless

Senior member
Jul 25, 2001
437
0
76
Originally posted by: Crucial
Good luck patching that textured surface. It's never going to match fully.

oh bummer, i never knew that. i'll have to do the whole wall?
 

NumbersGuy

Senior member
Sep 16, 2002
528
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IMNSHO what you have are roof trusses. If I'm not mistaken:

Your pic 1 shows the cable that you have pulled thru the ceiling, coming down on the open wall.

Pic 2 is the top of the wall showing the cable coming down from the ceiling and the top chord of the truss, a 2x4.

Pic 3 shows what may appear as the top of the wall but is really the bottom chord of the truss + an additional piece of 2x to match ("fur" out") the face of the wall.

Comments & suggestions:

1. The top of the wall should be a double 2x4 plate, laid horizontally, three inches tall. If you have steel studs (house is newish, wall is flimsy and rattles easily) it'll be a thin piece of steel (a horizontal steel stud)

2. Since you have already gone to town in the drywall dept, cut another hole, say 6x6, starting 9" below the top of the 2x4s that you see; this should take you below the wall's top plate, and you should see empty space and maybe a stud.

3. If item 2 is correct, cut the drywall betw the two holes to verify item 1 is also correct.

4. If 3 is correct, drill your vertical hole between the two 2x you see in picture 3 - need an 8-9" drill bit, smallest (~3/4" - 1" dia.) you can use and you are home free. Pass a thinner wire and pull the rest as needed.

5. Before reaching the outlet (which I didn't see in the pic) you may run into a bracing 2x4 horizontal between the studs (or two, maybe three). Cut dw & drill again vertically. Get a 90degree drill adapter.

All this is a lot easier before the dw is installed. :roll:

Make sure you have a good/sturdy ceiling mount hanging off the trusses (24" oc) not the drywall (add 2x4s betw the trusses if needed)

Take it nice & easy. PM me if needed. Good luck.

Of course, look at AVSForums here and here :thumbsup: