Help! Cant make a slotket work!

[farns]

The PSU comes on but nothing appears on the monitor.

my mobo GA-6BXC

My old cpu was a p3 450 Katmai which ran stock @ 100fsb and 2.0 V

My replacement is a celly 1.0 gig coppermine which also runs stock @ 100 fsb and runs on only 1.75V

I set the SW1 dip switches to 100fsb so no probs there
I left the SW2 dip switches(clock ratio) at X4.5 which was the default for my p3 450. The highest setting showed in the manual was only X6.5, I tried all permutations of the SW2 dips and it was still dead.

The slotket is an Asus S370-L and I could find no useful stuff about it on the net.
All it has is a sticker on the back for setting its jumpers to cpu voltage.
The range is 1.8 - 2.6 and "cpu default". I moved the jumpers to both default and 1.8 which is nearest to the 1.75V the cpu uses at stock speed.

As far as I can see the only probs could be:

1: The voltage jumpers dont go to 1.75V( doubt thats the problem)

2: When I took the fiddly lil jumpers off I may have put them the wrong way round, even tho they fit on pins perfect.

3: The SW2 dip switches dont allow for a 1gig cpu

4: The cpu is dead


Maybe that URL will help if anyone has used slotkets before, it has the BIOS (somone told me a 1gig coppermine was fine even tho I think the latest BIOS doesnt say that) and manual so u can see what I mean about SW1 and SW2 dip switches.

I switched it off at the wall (the power button on the case didnt work) each time I changed a jumper or a dip switch but I didnt clear CMOS or anything erm dunno if thats relevant)

Thanks for any help!

 

[bacillus]

make sure you've identified J1 & J5 correctly as I seem to recall the manual showed the voltage jumper settings upside down!
also suggest you use the 1.8V option for your board.

 

[zogzog]

CLEAR CMOS !!!

It worked for me (Abit bf6 (BX), slot1 C300A to C633+slotket)
It worked for a friend of mine (Abit bh6 (BX), slot1 C333 to C800+slotket)

The principle (I assume you have the latest bios):
- try to decide which are the most relevant jumper settings on the slotket and install it
- remove the CMOS jumper
- boot once (the computer should boot and display the right frequency)
- shut down
- put the CMOS jumper back
- boot again

If it does not work (that worked for me):
- boot the computer (black screen)
- unplug the CMOS jumper while the computer is on: automatic reboot + miracle !
- ...

 

[farns]

Bacillus, I dont have manual for it, its secondhand( I doubt its dead its from a reputable dealer) but J1->J5 is labelled on the slotket so I got that right. I meant I might have put the jumper the wrong war round on the correct pin, like back to front, dunno if it matters.
Im new to upgrading stuff.

zogzog where would I find the CMOS jumper, what is the thing called/look like its near?

Also this is what someone at SharkeyExtreme said to my Q:

"That board will not run that processor, at least according to the specs. The latest BIOS release posted will support up to 700 MHz. Currently the maximum FSB on the board is 100 and the processor multiplier cannot exceed 6.5 which will give you a 650MHz processor. The latest BIOS upgrade changes the maximum multiplier setting from 6.5 to 7.0 which accommodates a 700 MHz processor (FSB X Multiplier). A 1 Gig processor would require a multiplier setting of 10 which the board obviously does not support and since it does not have the auto detect function of the newer boards it can only be manually set to a maximun of 7.0 with a BIOS upgrade.
A new motherboard would be required to use that processor."

That was #3 on my list of possible causes, do you think the BIOS (I have the latest) or more likley my mobo, allows for 1 gig? I guess there just isnt enough SW2 dip settings to get a 10X multiplier.

 

[bacillus]

the cpu is multiplier locked so will disregard any settings for multiplier values in either bios or jumper settings!

 

[farns]

erm ok so does that mean my 1gig cpu is able to run @1gig on this mobo? If the multiplier settings are irrelevant?
Ok I found the CMOS clearing jumper

 

[zogzog]

The multiplier setting is not an issue.

Your motherboard accepts the celeron 2-666 (10x66) and the celeron 2-700 (10.5x66).

Possible issues left:
Core stepping : If I remember well, a celeron 700 has a cC0 core, yours is a cD0 core. This might be a real issue, though there are not so many differences (a lot less than between cB0 and cC0)
Voltage : my own motherboard was not supposed to run anything below 1.8V. When I plugged a coppermine in it, the minimum felt to 1.35V. Anyway my celeron 2 runs at 1.95V very well. Not a problem.
Multiplier value: bacillus is right, though your bios might complain anyway. In this case, try every dip-switch combination, cause there is a multiplier value that must have been translated to 10x for coppermines.

 

[GregMal]

Didn't ASUS make the 370, 370D, and 370L slotkets?? All PPGA???
Are you sure the 370L can handle FCGA???
Greg

 

[zogzog]

Easy to find out...
Is there a "Coppermine" jumper on your slotket ?

 

[bacillus]

Are you sure the 370L can handle FCGA???

that one is fcpga compitable.

 

[DaveSimmons]

You didn't accidentally buy a 1.0A Tulatin with 256K cache did you?

 

[RanDum72]

Only their 370-DL handles Coppermine (FCPGA) Celerons.

 

[bacillus]

Originally posted by: RanDum72
Only their 370-DL handles Coppermine (FCPGA) Celerons.

actually no, both the s370-L & s370-DL are coppermine compatible.
only the DL version will work for dual cpus.

 

[RanDum72]

actually no, both the s370-L & s370-DL are coppermine compatible.

Yes, you're right. I'm confusing a lot of slotkets lately. My bad Only PPGa Celerons work in duallie mode with the 'L'. Another difference is the voltage range. The L goes down to only 1.8v, while the DL goes down to 1.5v, I believe.

I thinks its a voltage and a stepping issue. I had the same problem with an Intel (Dell) BX mobo, which is based on the older version of its BX boards. My 1ghz Celeron (FCPGA) would not boot at all using a Soltek slotket (which has voltage settings). Tried several other slotkets and the only one that works right off the bat is the Powerleap one (also Tualatin-ready) since it has its own voltage regulator that bypasses the motherboard. Got the first one (ver 1.0) for $25 shipped and the second one is on its way (ver 2.0, $30 shipped). Both I got off Ebay They are slightly more expensive but worth it, IMHO, if you get them at the right price. The asking price off Ebay is $50.