Help a noob replace a (possibly) dead mobo

[CptObvious]

(Not a total noob, but I haven't put together a computer in about 10 years, back in the Athlon XP days). I've had a Dell XPS 8300 for a couple of years and last week it wouldn't turn on. The fans would spin for a second and stop, start, stop, etc. I tested by unplugging everything one-by-one and no dice.

I've ordered a replacement PSU (Corsair CX500M) hoping it's just that, but haven't tested it yet (will find out today). In case it's the mobo, I think I need some help picking one out. My requirements is that it be inexpensive as possible but reliable, and compatible as possible with the Dell front panel connector. I don't do any overclocking or gaming, just documents, surfing, and Lightroom.

My current motherboard is a DH67M01 (here: http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/dell-dh67m01-mainboard-specs/), CPU is an i7-2600 and I have 4 sticks of 2GB RAM.

Thanks!

Edit: Also, an unrelated question, if I replace the mobo, will I run into any problems reinstalling an educational license of Windows 7?

 

[BigChickenJim]

I was doing some research to answer your question and ran across this thread over at Tom's Hardware: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/319473-30-replace-mobo-dell. The OP there had almost the exact same setup as you (2600K instead of 2600).

From what I've gleaned, any micro-ATX board *should* (I'd like to double emphasize the SHOULD there) fit your case, but you may run into issues with the pinouts because of the way the front panel connector harness is wired. That could be fixed by rewiring, but that's far beyond my comfort zone. I'll keep hunting and see if I find something a little more specific for you.

Edit: Just saw your question about Windows 7. I believe that if you have a personal license you can reinstall on up to three machines (motherboards). Commercial/government licenses are normally a little more complicated. Did you purchase your OS on your own or was it provided to you by your employer?

Edit #2: It is indeed a micro-ATX board and is apparently manufactured and used only for/by Dell. The cheapest straight replacements I could find in my cursory shop were around $90-100. Considering what you'll be using the computer for (nothing heavy), the fact that you'll have to gut your system to replace the mobo anyway, and the price of a straight one-to-one replacement, I'd suggest that you look at different cases in addition to a new motherboard. It may well work out to be only slightly more expensive than the basic swap, won't really be any more time-consuming given the wiring issues in your current case, and could save you further headaches down the road since I assume you'll be keeping this PC for quite a while given your usage. That's just my two cents, though.

Obviously all of this assumes the new PSU doesn't fix your issue, though I suspect it might.

 

[CptObvious]

dp

 

[CptObvious]

Thanks for the response! The PSU did not fix the issue, so it's time to drop some $$ on a mobo, unfortunately. I'm looking at this Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H at Newegg (if nothing else, because it says "Japanese solid capacitor design" which sounds good). I looked at the front panel connector and it looks like it doesn't match the case (...damn you, Dell). I'm looking at this NZXT Source 210 (Elite?) case from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technolog.../dp/B005869A7K

I just realized my mobo had integrated WLAN too, so I guess that means I have to buy a WLAN card too. What a money pit this is turning out to be!

 

[BigChickenJim]

Ah, the old computer upgrade/repair spiral. I've been there many times myself, much to my wife's chagrin.

I think you're making a good call with the case transplant (40 bones for less hassle both now and later is money well spent), and that case looks good. If you ever start doing heavy editing or gaming you may want to consider a few case fans for that i7, but for your listed usage I think you will be fine without even with the stock CPU cooler.

As for the mobo, Gigabyte has never done me wrong and I have friends who swear by them. The only reason I currently have an MSI board is that Microcenter was running a screaming bundle deal with the FX-6300. Otherwise I'd be on a Gigabyte.

I haven't looked at the specs for that board (at work ), but you'll need to ensure that it has the correct socket for your CPU and that your RAM will be compatible if you want to avoid a REAL money sink. I realize you probably know that, but I just want to throw it out there to be sure.

Good on ya for the upgrade. I think it'll pay off. Dell can stuff their proprietary nonsense.

Edit: Just checked out your new board and it looks great for what you need. The reviews on Newegg are solid (i.e. most of the bad ones involve the typical DOA ranting and a couple of lemon stories). There were several concerning reviews claiming that the BIOS for the board can be a bit sketchy, but that describes nearly every cheap mobo (and a lot of expensive ones) and for your light use I doubt you'll have any issues.

Truth be told, solid capacitors are sort of old news these days, but this board has INDUSTRY LEADING and JAPANESE ones, so they must be extra awesome! Regardless, I guess the marketing worked and you found yourself a shiny new mobo. Win/win in my book. The socket type is all good too, so I'll apologize now for even halfway thinking for half a second that someone with 2,500 posts wouldn't know that.

I've admittedly had some difficulty determining exactly which memory modules you've got with the 8300; it appears that Dell likes to... mix and match to put it gently. I suppose the best way to check would be just to look at them. Chances are that they will be fine on the new board, but it pays to be sure since replacement RAM could close to double your price.

Good Lord that's a huge wall of text. Sorry, man, I got a little carried away...

 

[CptObvious]

Thanks again! I went ahead and ordered the mobo, case, and Wifi adapter along with some thermal grease. I'm really hoping I don't have to buy another copy of Win 7. A part of me feels like I should've just parted everything out, sold them, and just gotten a laptop, but too late now.

 

[BigChickenJim]

I hadn't considered a laptop, but this is definitely the most cost-effective path for you. Decent i7 laptops often run $700-1000 or more and I doubt you'd have gotten anywhere near that with your components. Certainly it would have cost more than $150. Besides, laptops are much harder to repair and upgrade.

You made the right call. Let me know how the transplant goes if you have time.