hec HP485D 485W ATX12V psu

[evanesce]

what do you think of this hec HP485D 485W ATX12V Power Supply - No Power Cord - OEM from NewEgg?

I'm sort of a value hunter. I've seen so many posts in my years of people warning to get the best PSU money can buy, but I guess I don't really understand the technical difference.

How can a psu like the one I linked above really blow up my whole system? I'm for sure not saying it will, it's just seems like others believe it will almost 100% happen or something.

Ranting I guess..

 

[TemjinGold]

I'm not going to get into whether or not they will blow your computer up. If you are a value hunter, then look at this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371003

On the surface, it looks like yours is "higher wattage." But if you look at the details, you'll note that your PSU has 1 +12V rail of 15amps while this one I linked has two 12V rails: one with 10amps and another with 13. For a modern day PSU, the amps on the +12Vs are a much better measure of a unit's power than the wattage label. Do you see how this unit, although much lower rated can actually put out MORE power (and costs less)? Do you begin to understand why crap PSUs are not the value you might think they are?

One more thing: Here is a REAL 430w PSU. Look at the amps on this one: 32 amps. Your "485w" unit is actually less than HALF of the PSU that this one is in terms of power output (and that's if the HEC can actually output what it claims; quality units generally can output MORE than what they claim.) Your HEC is basically a ~200watt unit labeled as a 485w.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139049

This is not even addressing the much lower efficiency your hec has (75%) or anything else. That corsair often goes on sale for $25 (you can also get the non-modular one on sale for $20.) So if you are cheap, just wait for a sale.

 

[evanesce]

I'm not going to get into whether or not they will blow your computer up. If you are a value hunter, then look at this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371003

On the surface, it looks like yours is "higher wattage." But if you look at the details, you'll note that your PSU has 1 +12V rail of 15amps while this one I linked has two 12V rails: one with 10amps and another with 13. For a modern day PSU, the amps on the +12Vs are a much better measure of a unit's power than the wattage label. Do you see how this unit, although much lower rated can actually put out MORE power (and costs less)? Do you begin to understand why crap PSUs are not the value you might think they are?

One more thing: Here is a REAL 430w PSU. Look at the amps on this one: 32 amps. Your "485w" unit is actually less than HALF of the PSU that this one is in terms of power output (and that's if the HEC can actually output what it claims; quality units generally can output MORE than what they claim.) Your HEC is basically a ~200watt unit labeled as a 485w.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139049

200 watt unit, eh... *not* what I wanted to hear, but alas, this is what happens when I jump before I think. I believe this is going to be my "backup psu", and one answer alone (thank you, btw for the simplistic yet logical answer) will likely convert me to a "higher priced psu" believer ;]

Edit: I just realized I tend to "quote" things a lot, what is up with that LOL... giant "LASER" perhaps?

Edit #2: Is it morally wrong for me to refuse UPS shipment from NewEgg in order to get a full refund? I highly value NewEgg and they are not worthy of being abused.

 

[Torn Mind]

Almost every PSU can turn on a computer so that it is functional initially, but not every PSU does things that you don't see equally well or perform as well as time passes. Poor noise and ripple control could cause some system instability, and some advertised protections might not actually be present in the power supply.

Power factor correction might not affect the consumer, but it does reduce the amount of power the electricity provider has to generate to satisfy demand. It also removes the need for the 120V/240V switch, which btw, the hec you linked to does have.

Do note that you only have a 1-year warranty with that PSU. If something fails out of it, you're either going to buy a new one or if you're willing, try to diagnose and repair what's wrong with it.

Also, when PSUs die, some take out the system with it while others just quietly stop functioning. Lesser quality units are more likely to take out other components.

Someone did analyze the unit a long time ago(before I was a member here or even cared much about computer hardware).
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2150079

Now, if the rig you're servicing is "expendable" in some sort of way, perhaps a lesser quality unit is worth the saved money, but at the same time, you should know that there are slightly better options available. The Cooler Master Elite 460w, which a mediocre unit, is available for 19.99 after rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...irtualParent=1

Usually, the Corsair CX430 has a decent rebate going on and can be had for $30. It is better than the Cooler Master I mentioned.

 

[TemjinGold]

Regarding the moral question, if you are asking, you probably already know the answer.

 

[evanesce]

Regarding the moral question, if you are asking, you probably already know the answer.

Well, i mean... I still want to return it... however, I did contact NewEgg to see what my options are. They told me exactly this...

Receive the package, but DO NOT OPEN it, then contact them again once it's in my possession. They will give me instructions from there.

I'm assuming since I'm not opening it, they have some process for this that is morally acceptable to everyone.

They even advised me to purchase the PSU I felt more confortable with in the meantime.

Gotta LOVE that company. You just gotta!

 

[nightspydk]

There are prolly some really good posts here, but if it's some of my former posts you are concerned about, then you need not be, as long as you stick to the rules.

1/ Get a PSU that is sufficient and that means that you need to check online for any reviews that confirms or not the unit delivers as promised. Get a brand PSU. The capacitors are most important here and with some dilligence you can actually get an idea of the lifespan if you know about them.

2/ You need to take into account that the capacitors get worn so add attleast 10% to your required wattage. That's minimum and has to do with wear of the caps.

3/ Get a unit with the right connectors.

Those are the most important I can think off. Single rail or not is more of a personnal preference and top mounted goes fine in the bottom of the case (vice versa) just as long as the cables fit on a non modular. Best to get the right kind indeed.

My cents.

 

[evanesce]

I actually bought this Antec EARTHWATTS 430W ATX Power Supply EA-430 off Ebay. He took a $10 best offer.

I took into consideration everything said here. How did I do?

 

[nightspydk]

That kind of thrills me mate. Good japanese stuff and excellent choice.
The thing you got japanese caps and everything even tv sets are most dependant on that more than you recon, so you did good my friend you'll see.

Write me if you have a problem.

No personally tho I would never buy a used PSU myself.

//edited

 

[TemjinGold]

I actually bought this Antec EARTHWATTS 430W ATX Power Supply EA-430 off Ebay. He took a $10 best offer.

I took into consideration everything said here. How did I do?

That's a good unit. Problem is, including shipping, you didn't pay much less than a quality unit on sale that's brand new and the biggest problem is you don't have more than a 30-day warranty. That being said, PSUs at this price range are probably not worth the shipping to warranty should they die.

 

[bryanl]

I've seen so many posts in my years of people warning to get the best PSU money can buy, but I guess I don't really understand the technical difference.

A low quality PSU may not shut off soon enough when overloaded and may suffer damage. Worse, immediately before the overload it may regulate incorrectly and send out a damaging voltage surge. Please look at the interior photos shown in reviews published by http://www.jonnyguru.com and http://www.hardwaresecrets.com to see how the best and worst PSUs differ in construction and what the reviewers have to say about it.