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Headunit installation help...

S

Spoooon

Lifer
The instructions for my old Alpine headunit say to connect the 12V line directly to the battery using an "extension battery lead (20A)." So, is that just a fancy way of saying I should run a wire to the battery through the firewall?

edit:

So, I'm trying to disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and the damn thing won't come off. I'm not sure how much force I should use. There is corrosion everywhere. I used a cleaning kit and it improved it some, but it still won't budge.

Pic: battery

If I attach the ring terminal to where the arrow is pointing to, will that work?

If not, any suggestions on getting the terminal off?
 
uh, you shouldnt need to run power to your head unit directly from your battery, it should connect to the wires that were in your stock radio.
Pick up a wire converter kit (found at any car audio store for like $10) so you dont have to splice wires!
 
Yeah, I have a wiring kit. The 12V lead from the head unit has a big yellow flag that says "Warning: High current draw. Connect directly to fuse block or battery. Do not connect behind dashboard."

I don't remember it ever being installed with the 12V lead connected directly to the battery. This is the first time I've messed with this thing in about 4 or 5 years, so I can't remember how it was installed before.
 
connect it to the battery with a fuse unless the fuse for your radio lead is 20A (doubtful)

You should be able to look at your fuse box to see what its rated for or possibly owners manual.
 
Is there any way around that? I'm fine with taking the old radio out and putting the new one in so long as I don't have to drill any holes or anything. I can't find any accessible grommets to use. I guess I'll have to look harder. 🙁
 
Originally posted by: Spoooon
I can't find any accessible grommets to use. I guess I'll have to look harder. 🙁
Click to expand...

The throttle cable is a good one.
Or the hoses going to the heater core.

 
Originally posted by: NiKeFiDO
uh, you shouldnt need to run power to your head unit directly from your battery, it should connect to the wires that were in your stock radio.
Pick up a wire converter kit (found at any car audio store for like $10) so you dont have to splice wires!
Click to expand...

qft
 
Originally posted by: captains
Originally posted by: NiKeFiDO
uh, you shouldnt need to run power to your head unit directly from your battery, it should connect to the wires that were in your stock radio.
Pick up a wire converter kit (found at any car audio store for like $10) so you dont have to splice wires!
Click to expand...

qft
Click to expand...

not necessarily true though...some head units do require a true battery lead with an inline fuse due to the ammount of current they draw (usually have an amp inside that provides greater power than a normal hu).

I'd say just get a new battery and cables and replace the whole lot if you want to do the connection up proper 😉
 
You need a new terminal, possibly two. You can pick them up and any local parts store for less than $1. To get it off, try tapping it lightly with a ratchet from the side at these points:
Tap here and here (my red arrows)

Do this light-moderate and it should come off. Don't get too agressive with it and ruin the battery post.

And, like others have said, running it straight off the battery won't hurt it at all. Just make sure you have a fuse on that particular circuit.

-Jason
 
Originally posted by: JasonSix78
Here's how I have mine.

-Jason
Click to expand...

You see that picture there is exactly why he shouldn't buy a clamp-on battery terminal from the parts store. Those things promote corrosion like mad. What you have is a bunch of wiring now exposed to the atmosphere (where you cut and pulled the insulation back). That's going to look like a science experiment in no time.

The best way to repair a battery cable is to either buy an entire cable (yes, sometimes you have to get them from the dealer), or CRIMP on a copper lug (with a special tool that looks like bolt cutters), then apply heatshrink tubing to the connection.

Judging from the picture of his terminal, it really doesn't look all that bad corrosion wise. You can't see where the cable goes into the terminal, but if it's sealed chances are it's in ok condition.

BTW, all he needs to do it use a big screwdriver to pry the two haves apart (the two halves the bolt goes through). Then it will come off.

Actually, all he needs to do is put a ring terminal on the bolt and he wont have to worry about removing the terminal from the battery.



 
Originally posted by: CFster
Originally posted by: JasonSix78
Here's how I have mine.

-Jason
Click to expand...

You see that picture there is exactly why he shouldn't buy a clamp-on battery terminal from the parts store. Those things promote corrosion like mad. What you have is a bunch of wiring now exposed to the atmosphere (where you cut and pulled the insulation back). That's going to look like a science experiment in no time.

The best way to repair a battery cable is to either buy an entire cable (yes, sometimes you have to get them from the dealer), or CRIMP on a copper lug (with a special tool that looks like bolt cutters), then apply heatshrink tubing to the connection.

Judging from the picture of his terminal, it really doesn't look all that bad corrosion wise. You can't see where the cable goes into the terminal, but if it's sealed chances are it's in ok condition.

BTW, all he needs to do it use a big screwdriver to pry the two haves apart (the two halves the bolt goes through). Then it will come off.

Actually, all he needs to do is put a ring terminal on the bolt and he wont have to worry about removing the terminal from the battery.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are correct but I've had it that way for a year and a half and it doesn't seem that corroded to me. The previous, factory terminal broke into two pieces and a) a new power wire is expensive and b) it's a pain to replace. So I used a $1 terminal. Also, the way it was from the factory, the wiring was still exposed.

-Jason
 
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