Have a soldering question

[Geosurface]

This may not be the correct forum, sorry if it isn't.

I am planning on replacing some drifting analog sticks in a couple of XBox 360 controllers, as detailed here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1259816/how-to-fix-xbox-360-controller-stick-drift

They say in that thread there are 12 or 14 solder points that need to be unsoldered, then resoldered with the new stick.

I haven't soldered anything since I was like, 12... 20 years ago.

I was never very good at it.

I just bought a gun and some solder last night, but I'm worried I may not have gotten the right type of solder. They had what looked like conductive solder for electrical work, and non-conductive... I think that's what the difference was.

Any advice on what type I'd need for this, far as I can tell these solder points should just be to hold it in... is there any danger of using the conductive stuff ?

 

[FloatingSpots]

Solder types.
There are solder types for work outside of electronics.
However, inside electronics there are lead free formulations and lead formulations.
Lead free is required for electronics shipped to Europe (and now many other nations).
However, lead free can be a problem to work with, as it behaves and looks different.
You may use lead solder on lead free parts with no issues.
I would suggest a rosin core 60/40 solder.
For reference, please look at
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062715&numProdsPerPage=60

For desoldering, you need a tool or solder wick.
For this job, solder wick should work just fine.
For reference:
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=solder wick&origkw=solder+wick&sr=1

 

[pm]

Floatingspots answer is excellent.

For this work, you want conductive solder.

I'd add that I personally find desoldering to be harder than soldering. Make sure you get solder wick, and I'd recommend watching a couple of youtube videos on both solderings and desoldering and then practicing a bit before you try the real thing.

 

[harrkev]

When you say that you have solder "gun," I hope that you do not have one of those huge 100 watt guns -- the wrong tool for the job. You really need a soldering iron with a power of somewhere around 10 watts or so. You are trying to solder electronics, not plumbing or a car radiator.

**EDIT**
Also, looking that the pictures, desoldering may be easier than you think.

If you are completely replacing a set of pots with a new one, then you don't really care if you destroy the old ones. Take pliers and cut them apart wherever it makes sense. Is MUCH eaiser to desolder if you can move the pins. For example, if you destroy one of the pots so that you have "wires" sticking out on the reverse side, grab the wire on the top of the board with pliers. Use the iron to heat the solder on the bottom. Once the solder melts, you can just pull that one pin out.

Trust me, trying to use desoldering braid on a 14-pin package is not fun at all. Just be very careful when destroying the old pot so that you do not damage the board or anything else. I also find that a solder sucker (looks like a giant syringe) is better for getting solder out of the plated holes once the part is gone.

Good luck.

 

[PottedMeat]

^yeah if you're going to trash the old pot, just cut off the pins on the potentiometer side with some wire cutters. don't be too reckless and pull too hard and destroy the traces.

press the desoldering wick into the joint with the tip of the hot iron and wait for it to be sucked into the wick. with 20/30/40 watt irons this can take some time, especially with large areas of solder. if you're careful you can do this quickly with a 100+watt gun ( i prefer doing it this way but know just the right amount of heat to apply without delaminating the traces) also melting in some regular 60/40 leaded solder into the joint then using the wick can help.

 

[Geosurface]

Thanks guys.

Define "pot" ?

 

[PottedMeat]

Thanks guys.

Define "pot" ?

pot = potentiometer

analog stick = 2 potentiometers ( one for each axis ) and a pushbutton

from your picture it looks like there are 3 connections for each potentiometer, 2 for the pushbutton, and 4 for the metal frame.

 

[C101]

For desoldering through-hole parts, I find that this tool from radio shack works quite well.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

If you don't do much solder work, it may not be worth it, but I love mine for rework. It cleanly removes the solder from through-hole pins with the pin still in the hole. All you have to do is let the iron heat up (this takes a while), squeeze the bulb, put the soldering iron over the pin, let the solder melt, and release the bulb. You'd still need a soldering iron to solder the new part on, however.

 

[RampantAndroid]

For desoldering through-hole parts, I find that this tool from radio shack works quite well.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

If you don't do much solder work, it may not be worth it, but I love mine for rework. It cleanly removes the solder from through-hole pins with the pin still in the hole. All you have to do is let the iron heat up (this takes a while), squeeze the bulb, put the soldering iron over the pin, let the solder melt, and release the bulb. You'd still need a soldering iron to solder the new part on, however.

Don't forget the copper braid wick to remove the solder - it's also VERY useful.