As always, no two CPUs will be truly identical even at stock. Much the same way you cannot buy two hard drives and have them be truly identical either, even if they are the precise same model and the serial numbers are sequential.
With SB and previous, things were much more predictable at least on the stock side of things. With Ivy and HW, things can vary quite a bit more from chip to chip. One of the best ways to check, outside of voiding the warranty, is by testing with the stock HSF and then putting a known great HSF like a Noctua or even a 212+ on it, and comparing baselines of stock settings and identical application loads.
So let's count the lotteries.
(1)- Silicon lottery.
This is the actual die of the CPU. Intel guarantees that this will work effectively at stock speeds in all supported extensions with the stock cooler on compatible motherboards/memory/yadda. This can be skirted a bit by finding out batch codes that indicate more robust overclocking batches. Ask any old timer about which 300A to get, or even G0 vs. B3. In newer cases, we've seen generally massive improvements with delids of seemingly 'bum' Ivys and Haswells, but occasionally one will still be terrible for OC, and that's the silicon lottery in effect (assuming the lack of user error, and I've seen enough experienced users simply find a gimpy K chip regardless).
(2)- TIM Lottery.
This is new to Ivy and Haswell. Of course, Intel has changed over from soldered to a simple squirt of proprietary paste to bridge the gap between the top of the die and the integrated heat spreader. This has been shown to be pretty wildly variable, so this is a big one to 'win' if you want to OC and/or have low temps even on stock.
(3)- IHS lottery.
This is the quality of the IHS itself. On both the inside cap, the outside mounting rim, and the top surface of course, there can be small imperfections and variations that will affect heat transfer. Dedicated souls will sand/polish this (lapping), in order to improve this (with varying degrees of success) the actual contact area that gets heat off of the thing and into the heatsink for dissipation. If you've ever looked at something under very high magnification, it can be shocking how something that appears smooth can actually be pretty gnarly in actuality. Of course, modding the IHS in this way voids warranty and means you'll want to mark the CPU in some way for visual ID.
These are far from the only factors, as you have local AC line quality, other components that may be contributing to stability, ambient and case temperature/humidity/airflow/fluctuation, it really gets quite granular to the obscure the more you think about it.
I've built and worked on tens of thousands of systems for portions of four decades now, and can say confidently that (A)- The stock Intel HSF is more or less adequate for stock use and potentially mild OC, and (B)- I absolutely
hate using them and feel that they are of low quality, and obviously designed to be as cheap as possible to make while still hitting their targets (namely, cooling the chip enough for average use to make it through warranty).
The pushpin design annoys me to no end. Take any normal board, even a moderately high end one, mount the chip and attach the Intel (or 3rd party model even) push-pin HSF and it WILL flex the mobo a bit. Of course this is all more or less fine technically, but I hate it even more so for that effect.
Ugh. I vastly prefer using a quality aftermarket unit of not too high an expense, as I like to really take care of my stuff. Yes, it will be of little value in a short amount of time either way, and yes the stock stuff works all right, but I just feel better knowing I'm lowering the operating temperate substantially and not putting undue stress on anything. With very low power processors and dirt cheap builds I will forgo this, but anything that will see heavy use and any high-clock/K series/etc will get at minimum a 212+ Evo.