Has anyone used an Atlas lift?

[jlee]

Specifically the MR-06. I could either afford:

1) The aforementioned lift, and
2) Insulating my garage, and
3) Air conditioning my garage

or

1) Pouring a slab for a future lift, which will go under a future carport.


I was talking about it with black2na, thinking of ways to compromise on space / finances required. For anything requiring the wheels off and access around the edges of the car, it'd work brilliantly. For anything requiring underneath the car, I could set it back down on some wheel stands and roll underneath. I don't foresee many instances where I have to simultaneously be under the middle of the car while having the wheels off.

Part of me says don't compromise - go for a concrete slab and a two-post with a carport, but I'm looking at what, $5000-6000 minimum, and it's not exactly going to add much value to my house (vs this setup, which can move wherever I do if I don't end up here forever). And this deal could also result in an air conditioned garage. Which isn't a big deal in the northeast, but in Phoenix it'd be like heaven in July.

Thoughts?

 

[phucheneh]

My testes get sucked up into my abdomen when I look at that lift. It's like lifting a car four feet on jack stands.

You can buy the two post for that price.

 

[manimal]

I bought my lifts at Greg smith in Indiana. Only thing i worry about is finding parts when something goes wrong.

For low volume they are fine. I of course wanted a rotary but damn 1200 for a
10k lbs lift is cheap !

I would also get the Two post. Build quality was decent.

 

[herm0016]

2 post. way more useful. and you can take it with you, just have to pour a new slab.

 

[Dirigible]

Specifically the MR-06. I could either afford:

1) The aforementioned lift, and
2) Insulating my garage, and
3) Air conditioning my garage

or

1) Pouring a slab for a future lift, which will go under a future carport.


I was talking about it with black2na, thinking of ways to compromise on space / finances required. For anything requiring the wheels off and access around the edges of the car, it'd work brilliantly. For anything requiring underneath the car, I could set it back down on some wheel stands and roll underneath. I don't foresee many instances where I have to simultaneously be under the middle of the car while having the wheels off.

Part of me says don't compromise - go for a concrete slab and a two-post with a carport, but I'm looking at what, $5000-6000 minimum, and it's not exactly going to add much value to my house (vs this setup, which can move wherever I do if I don't end up here forever). And this deal could also result in an air conditioned garage. Which isn't a big deal in the northeast, but in Phoenix it'd be like heaven in July.

Thoughts?

How long you going to be in that house?


If I had to guess, I'm guessing you'll be a car guy for a long long time. And you'll never really be satisfied until you have quality. So if you're going to be in that house a long time, I'm voting you take it slow and get a quality lift and over time get the AC and stuff.

Purchase right, purchase once.


If you might be moving after only a few years, all bets are off.

 

[manimal]

forgot to mention you can also use the 2 post to stash a car off the ground and park another one under it. Much moar useful!

 

[Gillbot]

If you don't want to do the 2 post because of the slab, i've seen many compromise on the 4 post models. A buddy had one and it wasn't the best, but it still worked well. We could change a transmission since the middle was open, and he had the tray jacks to get the wheels off the lift itself.

I also agree, I've seen people use those lifts you posted but I just don't feel safe yanking and tugging on a tough bolt using one. I saw a shop had one they'd use outside when they ran out of room and they seemed sturdy but man, I'm just not sure.

 

[skyking]

I scored a commercial two post for the neighbor for 1200. I'd say pour a slab with a thickened area, and bide your time.
Those scissors are really geared for wheel work only, and at that point is a big bulky thing to have around if it does not do it all for you.

 

[jlee]

Can they be used outside or would I have to build a carport for it? Heavy cover maybe? I'd be concerned about a dust storm trashing the insides.

 

[skyking]

I see two posts outside with a pressure washer set up quite often. It has rollers and cables, a pair of cylinders and a pump/reservoir.

 

[jlee]

I'll look into that. I just found a lift site that said they need 4" concrete unless it's a standalone pad, in which case it needs to be 8". Why such a difference?

I'm guessing an 8" slab is not going to come cheap!

 

[skyking]

I'd do thickened footings across the middle and 4" everywhere else, and put wire in it all over. I do like setting anchors in 8" no matter what. The neighbor poured one bay of his shop at 6" for the lift.

 

[jlee]

I just got a quote for 16x20ft 8" thick at $1300. That seems really, really low...is that remotely within reason, or is something wrong? I am assuming that's not counting digging the ground 7-8" deep, though, just setting forms and pouring.

 

[SyndromeOCZ]

16' x 20' x 8" comes out to 7.9 yards of concrete(Ok lets call it 8). Concrete is around $100 per yard right now. Its a little less than that here(southern Utah) but in your area I would say around $100 per yard for an established company.

That leaves 500 for the labor. I just poured 7 yards of concrete this morning with 3 guys(less than an half hour for them) and finished it myself. Forms are reusable, and I doubt their quote includes any rebar(which I think you should definitely put in, even if its only a few #3 bar going each direction.

I'd do thickened footings across the middle and 4" everywhere else, and put wire in it all over. I do like setting anchors in 8" no matter what. The neighbor poured one bay of his shop at 6" for the lift.

I poured the automotive section for the new High school here about a month ago. Everywhere that they are putting lifts is only 6" thick. No thickened edges(Though 18" on center #3 rebar)

 

[jlee]

Why would a lift manufacturer spec 8" for a dedicated slab but only 4" for an existing one?

Maybe 4-6" with 8" 3x3ft footers under the lift, with rebar? I don't want it to fail, ever, but if I could save a few bucks I could widen my driveway to lead to the lift instead of having to go off the driveway, through the side gate and then onto concrete again.

 

[SyndromeOCZ]

I would probably do a footing around the perimeter even just like 1' wide and 1' deep would work. I would put rebar coming up out of the footing into the slab, #4 bar. On the slab I would do 4" thick, with 6" under the lift, with a rebar mat of 18-24" OC #3 bar.

Those footings do a good job to keep the concrete from trying to 'run away' thats why you want it on the perimeter. And a simple 2' wide 1' deep footing can hold a 100k lb concrete tilt up wall, so the 6" should be strong enough for your lift if you have good compaction on the dirt.

 

[jlee]

I'll have to give him a call back and price that out - also have to check zoning/etc and see if I need permits to put concrete in my yard. I hope not.

 

[phucheneh]

If you're pouring new concrete, and not just excavating/repouring on a driveway or garage floor, I'd be careful. Their slab recommendations are probably assuming that the ground is there, it's already got a building on it...you're just pouring a bit of new concrete to anchor the lift on. I'd be worried about fresh stuff sinking/cracking/becoming generally unlevel, even if you poured a whole carport-sized pad.

...you should just go ahead and retitle this 'add-on garage build thread'...

 

[jlee]

If you're pouring new concrete, and not just excavating/repouring on a driveway or garage floor, I'd be careful. Their slab recommendations are probably assuming that the ground is there, it's already got a building on it...you're just pouring a bit of new concrete to anchor the lift on. I'd be worried about fresh stuff sinking/cracking/becoming generally unlevel, even if you poured a whole carport-sized pad.

...you should just go ahead and retitle this 'add-on garage build thread'...

Ground out here is pretty well packed - hopefully it wouldn't settle. Sadly, I think this will be something that'll explode far beyond what I can consider reasonable or affordable...probably stuck with floor jacks and jackstands for a few years.

 

[SyndromeOCZ]

I believe your in the tucson/pheonix area? I doubt you will have to over excavate anything. So long as you can keep the flash flood storms from washing the earth around your slab away I would say you would be pretty good with the specs I suggested. It might not hurt to over ex the footings 6 inches and do road base. Other than that it wont be much different than most commercial buildings in the area.

And about the permits, if you ask they will most likely require one, anything in my area requires one and I live in BFE compared to you.

 

[jlee]

I believe your in the tucson/pheonix area? I doubt you will have to over excavate anything. So long as you can keep the flash flood storms from washing the earth around your slab away I would say you would be pretty good with the specs I suggested. It might not hurt to over ex the footings 6 inches and do road base. Other than that it wont be much different than most commercial buildings in the area.

And about the permits, if you ask they will most likely require one, anything in my area requires one and I live in BFE compared to you.

So if it's $1300 for 8" 16x20ft, what do you think they'd quote for your specs? $2000-2500 plus excavation and base?

Thinking it's not happening, lol

 

[phucheneh]

Why are you building new instead of installing in the garage, anyway? Too small?

If it's at all possible, it's probably gonna be a lot cheaper to install a lift on an established foundation, in a place that's already sealed off from the elements...if you need to store stuff in the garage, a shed is cheaper/easier than making a place for a car lift.

What were you going to enclose it with? Metal carport? You'll probably need a building permit for that, if you want to be able to stand under a car. (8ft+ roof).

 

[SyndromeOCZ]

His garage probably only has 8' ceilings. you put a car on that, you only get about 5 feet of clearance. If you can't go to a comfortable height then why even put a lift in?

 

[jlee]

His garage probably only has 8' ceilings. you put a car on that, you only get about 5 feet of clearance. If you can't go to a comfortable height then why even put a lift in?

This. I'd just end up rolling around on my back anyway, which I can do with jackstands. Ceiling height is 8'3".

Another reason I don't really want one in the garage is because I'd like to be able to park two cars inside. With a lift, I'd be down to one.

Maybe I'll have to rent this house out in a couple of years, and get another one with a huge detached 3-4 bay garage. They're not *too* hard to find out here (well, detached 2+ car anyway), but the biggest issue there is they're way out in the middle of nowhere. I have a 5 minute commute to work...really not interested in turning that into 40 miles!

I recently met one of my neighbors and found that he is retired and has a shop less than 5 miles away, which he keeps open for friends/family. Maybe I should be friends with him and save myself $7000.

 

[xSkyDrAx]

Saw these on Costco's website a while back for about 2k. Don't see them there anymore but I'm sure you can find them for a similar price.