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H50/60/70

EliteRetard

EliteRetard

Diamond Member
Whats the diff?

Im guessing the H60 is simply an H50 with the new H70 block so they dont have to make two types? But then the H50 would be phased out...

Am I wrong?
 
I think also Corsair partnered with Coolit on the H60 whereas before they partnered with asetek.

Edit: its also a different block its square

h60_new_viewa.png
 
OK somebody really needs to do a review of all these and then dismemeber them to see whats really going on.

And they really need to make a freaking GPU bracket. Ive been saying it since the H50 first came out and everybody kept saying it was stupid. Now somebody has done it and its the coolest thing 3VAR!
 
Are you suggesting multi GPU? 😀

It does seem odd that they havnt converted any of these yet...sure you can get watercooling other ways...I think there is an all in one GPU kit out there (it requires a different cooling plate for every card), but they are all really expensive.

~65$ for a corsair unit and ~5$ extra to get a bracket for the GPU. Being able to easily switch to either or would make it very usefull and the price is pretty fair already. Top end air units cost about the same, but you cant stick them on a GPU.

This gets you a much cooler quieter setup in an easy 15 minutes...theres nothing else really out there for GPUs that could do the same. Depending on the card you may need heatseanks for other parts, but cheap aluminum heatsinks could be made for those and would work well (probably better than getting sandwiched under a hot flat plate like usual).

Ive got a card now that has cooling issues...the computer doesnt get used because it keeps crashing. Cant justify the cost of a new card or some stupid expensive aftermarket cooler for it, but one of these would be great. Use it untill the card is no longer worthy and then I can swap it to CPU duty...or just move it to the next card. A simple cheap bracket change would be the most required to get it to fit.
 
H50 was the original. Call it 1st Gen if you like. The H70 was the next in the series. It had a larger rad than the H50 which made it very difficult to work with. The H60 is basically a remake and improvement of the H50. Its what the H70 should have been. Its also supposed to be better than the H70 as well. So If you want the latest and greatest of the series go with the H60. If you cant find it or are still confused just go with the original H50.

From best to worse it goes like this:
H60
H50
H70(IMO the larger rad makes it a worse choice than the H50)

This is just my OWN PERSONAL OPINION based on what I have used and seen posted by others, both enthusiasts and professionals, on the net.
 
i love the new base on the H6O
I HATE the ALU rad tho. When you mix copper + Alu in the same wetted loop, i cringe.. because we don't need to go there anymore, and i don't understand why they still insist they do.

If i had to pick one... H7O all the way.
H7O radiator has the most optimized FPI + Thickness.

If you recall, its the one thing i was whining the most about on the H5O, that they immediately fixed.

And can easily dish out more heat then the H5O and most definitely the ALU H6O.
 
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EliteRetard said:
wut?
Click to expand...

H5O = Copper radiator + Copper plate @ cpu.
H6O = Alu Radiator + Copper Plate @ Cpu.... its mixing metals.
H7O = Copper radiator + Copper plate @ Cpu.

I was wrong... they are all ALU radiators...

Now the real difference is in the radiator at most.

The H6O has a nice copper plate, however its ALU radiator scares me.

If your picking one for the best cooling potential the H7O wins, because it has the best radiator.

The Radiator does all the heat transfer... the copper plate only picks it up.
So your system is limited to what the radiator can release in relationship to the air temperature. This is what we call a Delta Air / Coolant..

Without making it more complicated i'll end it there.
Now u see why i tell people research b4 u change mediums.... not doing so is really shooting your self in both the left and right feet.
 
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Oh I gotcha now...I saw ALU and it didnt click. Yeah I think thats galavanic corrosion if I recall corectly. I didnt realize the H60 had aluminum.

And yeah I got no problems with a bigger radiator (it only makes sense that bigger is better, you gotta transfer that heat to the air to send it away), I just didnt know what all the differences were. So whats the diference between the cooling plates? Are there pictures of them (inside)?

Whats FPI?

And doesnt the H70 come with two fans? Im assuming they are optomized for use against a radiator, or are they some generic? For the cost, it seems to make more sense to go H70 as well, its like 10-15$ more but one extra good fan will cost that much.

And if the H60 is aluminum why does it cost more than an H50?

Oh and how hard would it be to put an H60 block on an H70 rad?
 
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1. FPI = Fins per Inch... represents what Fans the radiator was intended.

2. H6O costs more... yeah i have no idea why on that either.. i blame coolit.

3. how difficult would it be to frankenstien one? Not very difficult, however bleeding will be a PITFA, and well, with all that, you might as well spend a bit more and go custom from getgo while learning watercooling and having a lot of fun with it on top.

The H#O lines are best left as it is, unless u know what your doing.
And even then, the pump can not handle a high restriction load, so ive seen cases where modded units die from having too many stuff in loop.

Leave it with warrenty intact.. is my best advice... if u want to play with water... go custom from getgo and have fun customizing it to your wants.
 
You know what u guys i think im wrong...

http://www.corsair.com/cooling/hydro-series/hydro-series-h70-cpu-cooler.html

i could of sworn they used Copper radiators, and not Alu...

but on the web site it says all of them use alu now?

Someone care to correct me?

EDIT: 2... the rads are all ALU.. so material is MOOT...
The main differences between the units will be the rad thickness + FPI only on the rads.

Blah.... this is really new info for me, as i could of sworn the H7O at least was copper.
 
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Skott said:
H50 was the original. Call it 1st Gen if you like. The H70 was the next in the series. It had a larger rad than the H50 which made it very difficult to work with. The H60 is basically a remake and improvement of the H50. Its what the H70 should have been. Its also supposed to be better than the H70 as well. So If you want the latest and greatest of the series go with the H60. If you cant find it or are still confused just go with the original H50.

From best to worse it goes like this:
H60
H50
H70(IMO the larger rad makes it a worse choice than the H50)

This is just my OWN PERSONAL OPINION based on what I have used and seen posted by others, both enthusiasts and professionals, on the net.
Click to expand...

meh, my i7 930 @ 4+GHz pushed the limits of my H50 (and this is with much more powerful fans in push pull that I replaced the stock fan with), I switched to the H70 (demoting my H50 to a s775 rig where the H50 is more than adequate for) and never looked back

IMO the H50 and H60 are only for those who don't want to mess with the hassle of a large tower cooler and want a cleaner look to their rig setup. If they also want top end performance the H70 is where its at.
 
EliteRetard said:
Whats the diff?
Click to expand...

H50 original Asetek design just like all the Asetek coolers in boutique systems.

H70 is also from Asetek and is updated with dual fans, thicker rad and new base/pump.

H60 is from CoolIt and is based on their Eco II. CoolIt will be supplying the Eco II to system integrators, while Corsair will be the sole retail source of the Eco II, branded as H60.

aigomorla said:
The H6O has a nice copper plate, however its ALU radiator scares me.

If your picking one for the best cooling potential the H7O wins, because it has the best radiator.
Click to expand...

Why does Alu rad scare you? There are additives in the coolant to deal with it.

Anyways, the performance (according to a few reviews I read) is between the H50 and H70, thus making the H60 model name make perfect sense.
 
well cuz there's copper with it.

and the amount of additives required to slow down corrosion will be significant.

That means if it were to ever leak, it would be one hell of a nasty mess.

But in short... ive had galvanic corrosion happen, and believe me... its not fun.
 
Probably better cooling at the expense of noise. Isn't the Kuhler 920 just the pump/block from the H70 with the fan/rad from the H50?
 
Zap said:
Probably better cooling at the expense of noise. Isn't the Kuhler 920 just the pump/block from the H70 with the fan/rad from the H50?
Click to expand...

It has the thick rad with push/pull fans as well. You might be thinking of the Kuhler 620?

If the 920 is identical to the H70 I guess its only benefit is that it has the software to change fan RPMs based on the temp of the liquid (it has a plug that goes into a motherboard USB header).
 
I used the H70 in my last build and yes, the rad was ALU. The included Corsair fans were stupidly loud for how much air they were moving in a push-pull. The 140mm Noctuas made the difference by many decibels, and feel like they move far more air through the rad. Also made the cooler cost $150 when the fans are added, so there might be better options...like building a kit? /shrug

When I reinstalled the H70 after swapping my P67 RMA board out, it dropped idle temps by 4 to 5 degrees, and load temps by up to 8...apparently on the first install I hadn't tightened the block-pump with the retention ring enough, and the TIM also hadn't spread very well. 2600K is now running at 4.0GHz is 27-29 degrees at idle and <65 at full load.
 
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