My front brakes i have noticed make a grinding sound, its kind of like the sound that you get after its been raining and there is a thin layer of rust on the surface of the discs that usually goes after a couple of stops. At first i thought it was the brake pads worn out, but im pretty sure its not because from my experience when the pads are going they start to squeak, mine dont do this. Anyone have any insight?
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Grinding Brakes
- Thread starter Jahee
- Start date
Either pull the wheels yourself and examine BOTH sides of the rotor (make sure the car is on jack stands and level concret or asphalt with ebrake ON before you stick you head in the wheel well). With a drop light or flashlight you shoud be able to see the pads on most vehicles.
Otherwise have a tech check it out. Get an oil change at a place where they do free brake checks. You probably need it anyway.
Edit: Of course if the pads are riveted, seeing them from the side doesn't mean they are down to the rivets. If they are glued then any pad remaining means you are on the backing plate yet, but you don't know without removing them. But a good look at the rotors will tell you a lot. If they are scraping they are not necesarily trashed yet. They can probably be turned on a lathe.
Otherwise have a tech check it out. Get an oil change at a place where they do free brake checks. You probably need it anyway.
Edit: Of course if the pads are riveted, seeing them from the side doesn't mean they are down to the rivets. If they are glued then any pad remaining means you are on the backing plate yet, but you don't know without removing them. But a good look at the rotors will tell you a lot. If they are scraping they are not necesarily trashed yet. They can probably be turned on a lathe.
JulesMaximus
No Lifer
Agreed, just because the outside of the rotor isn't scored doesn't mean the inboard pad isn't worn down to the metal plate and tearing up your rotors.
Grinding noises in the brakes are never a good thing. Get it checked before you really do need new rotors.
thomsbrain
Lifer
if it does it all the time, the pads are shot and your rotors probably are, too.
i had an interesting experience with my car where the pads got thin, but not totally gone, and the rotors were very thin after several pad-slaps with the same rotors. the pads would overheat so quickly that they would get all scorched up during brutal stops. i'd get huge pulsations in the brake pedal, and noticeable brake fade and grinding. the grinding and fade would continue the next time i hit the brakes, regardless of the length of time the brakes had to cool. after i ground off the scorched layer through regular braking, they would work fine again. i got the pads replaced (still same rotors) and all of these symptoms went away. no pulses, no fade, no grinding.
i had an interesting experience with my car where the pads got thin, but not totally gone, and the rotors were very thin after several pad-slaps with the same rotors. the pads would overheat so quickly that they would get all scorched up during brutal stops. i'd get huge pulsations in the brake pedal, and noticeable brake fade and grinding. the grinding and fade would continue the next time i hit the brakes, regardless of the length of time the brakes had to cool. after i ground off the scorched layer through regular braking, they would work fine again. i got the pads replaced (still same rotors) and all of these symptoms went away. no pulses, no fade, no grinding.
Ok i checked both sides of the rotors, they both seem fine, no scores or anything, the inside side of the disc does feel a bit rougher than the outside side though, maybe theres a buildup of pad material?? that could possibly make that sound? Otherwise im stuck, the cars booked in for something to be fixed under warranty next week so i'll ask them to check that out at the time time...
Because its a mistake i always make, i guess i jus didnt see that one haha.
Because its a mistake i always make, i guess i jus didnt see that one haha.
Soccerman06
Diamond Member
How new are they? Cause certain types of brakes are known to have a warm in period of like a week or two (ceramic).
Turin39789
Lifer
Did you jack the care and take the tire off? How did the pads look? If you did'nt I would
Sorry ppl i went out, but thanks for ur answers... To soccerman, the pads are older than 2 weeks i think they are way past that wear in period, to turin no i didnt jack the car up just turned the wheel to full lock and stuck my arm behind the wheel and felt the backside of the disc. but when i get the time i'll check them visually too,
You need to look at the PADS, not the rotors. See how much pad there is left, if any.
Usually one side goes before the other. Both sides don't usually go metal-to-metal at the exact same time. When pads get thin, even though it looks like there's a couple thousand miles of wear left, sometimes they crack and fall off the backing plate and you don't get to use that last little bit.
Oh, and if you caught it right when they went metal-to-metal, there probably isn't a gouge in the rotor...yet.
Usually one side goes before the other. Both sides don't usually go metal-to-metal at the exact same time. When pads get thin, even though it looks like there's a couple thousand miles of wear left, sometimes they crack and fall off the backing plate and you don't get to use that last little bit.
Oh, and if you caught it right when they went metal-to-metal, there probably isn't a gouge in the rotor...yet.
Turin39789
Lifer
That's where I'd look for grinding noises, even if it hasn't seriously scored the rotor yet it could be causing damage. I've had pad's seperate from their backing, move around to where they werent supposed to be, causing grinding noise and eventually failing brakes. I know it can be hard to find the time, but I'm pretty sure that's where your problem is.
It's nice if you have another car handy to run to the parts store so you can get everything you need after you take a good look.
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