Got asked to shoot a wedding

angry hampster

Diamond Member
Dec 15, 2007
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A couple who are both friends of mine got engaged a couple weeks ago. I got a message today from them asking if I could photograph the wedding next summer/fall. I've never shot a wedding before, and have done very little paid work outside of newspapers. I'm very much looking forward to it. Any wedding photogs here?
 

alfa147x

Lifer
Jul 14, 2005
29,307
106
106
update on that equipment
Canon 30D
Canon 20D
Canon XT
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS
Canon 18-55 f/3.5 - 5.6
Canon 50mm f/1.8
Canon 430EX Speedlite x2

I shoot with a partner and its a blast
the last wedding we did was an indian wedding
which had the wedding x2 (Hindu and christian) then the ceremony between 2 day. That was a drain because we begin at 9 am shoot till 3 pm then break till 6 then shoot till 2ish am

Ok what is the venue? Indoors outdoors ?
equipment? (if its anything but Canon dont even bother taking your camera)
how many people are attending ?

We had about 100 people, what helps is that the groom and bride make a list of who is in what group shot then a list is placed on each table. Then numbers are called out and while one sets the people up the other takes the picture

also having two people is a life saver especially because now you can be at 2 places at once (kinda)

If i think of anything ill post. if you have any question post, ill or my fellow ATers well try our best

Oh have fun, ours had an open bar and the DeeJays didnt mind getting us drinks
 

angry hampster

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Dec 15, 2007
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Don't know the venue, setting, or crowd -- the B&G don't even have a date set yet, but I would assume around 75-100ppl in attendance.


Equipment is:
5D
24-70
17-40
50 f/1.4
extension tubes
Sigma EF 500 DG Super flash (comparable to 580ex)
Vivitar 285HV flash (will be used with umbrella as a slave for group shots)

I just sold my 20D a few months ago, but I may pick up another one before the wedding since they're so cheap now. I'll have the 24-70 mounted on it to get a little extra reach if I need to, though I like being absurdly close when I'm shooting events. Since I personally know the couple, getting close for candids won't be an issue.
 

alfa147x

Lifer
Jul 14, 2005
29,307
106
106
Originally posted by: angry hampster
Don't know the venue, setting, or crowd -- the B&G don't even have a date set yet, but I would assume around 75-100ppl in attendance.


Equipment is:
5D
24-70
17-40
50 f/1.4
extension tubes
Sigma EF 500 DG Super flash (comparable to 580ex)
Vivitar 285HV flash (will be used with umbrella as a slave for group shots)

I just sold my 20D a few months ago, but I may pick up another one before the wedding since they're so cheap now. I'll have the 24-70 mounted on it to get a little extra reach if I need to, though I like being absurdly close when I'm shooting events. Since I personally know the couple, getting close for candids won't be an issue.

oh yeah forgot those fucking candids are possibly the hardest thing for me to find at a wedding :|
 

arrfep

Platinum Member
Sep 7, 2006
2,314
16
81
I second shoot on occasion, and hope to start booking gigs as a main for next year. What gear to use depends on what kind of shooter you are. I spent the morning with the groomsmen getting ready, and shot 80% with the 50mm 1.4 on my 5D. For the ceremony and cocktails (both outdoors), I put the 24-105 on. The reception was in an enclosed tent, and while the sun was still coming in, I kept the 24-105 on the 5D, and the 50mm on my 30D, which is a good length for candids of people at tables. However, with steady hands and good technique, the 5D/50mm 1.4 combo can practically see in the dark.
 

angry hampster

Diamond Member
Dec 15, 2007
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Originally posted by: arrfep
However, with steady hands and good technique, the 5D/50mm 1.4 combo can practically see in the dark.

I can shoot 1/20 handheld, not braced with the 50mm on my 5D with no noticeable camera shake. Anything slower than that and subject movement is usually quite obvious. :)


 

OdiN

Banned
Mar 1, 2000
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I do weddings.

I have a rather long post in that other thread I bet, if it's the one I recall.

Live with that 24-70 on there.

Bounce flash is your friend.

I'd even say with a 5D, you'd want more reach than the 24-70. I love my 70-200 for the "spy" shots where you can capture things from farther away unnoticed.
 

angry hampster

Diamond Member
Dec 15, 2007
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Originally posted by: OdiN
I do weddings.

I have a rather long post in that other thread I bet, if it's the one I recall.

Live with that 24-70 on there.

Bounce flash is your friend.

I'd even say with a 5D, you'd want more reach than the 24-70. I love my 70-200 for the "spy" shots where you can capture things from farther away unnoticed.

Yeah I'll probably use the 5D for close candids and group shots only. Assuming I pick up a 20D again, I'll put the 24-70 on there.

For flashing, I've got a Joe Demb "Big Flip-It" that I use on my EF500. Love the thing -- so simple but ridiculously effective.
 

GoingUp

Lifer
Jul 31, 2002
16,720
1
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Originally posted by: angry hampster
Originally posted by: OdiN
I have a flip-it and was not impressed.

Have you tried using anything else? I refuse to use a lightsphere because they look absurd.

I just used a lightsphere for the wedding I used, and I love it. Does a fantastic job.
 

randomlinh

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
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I had a lightsphere, but sold it. Seemed a bit too expensive, figured I'd somehow just use a bounce card of sorts. I've been struggling with that a bit with my sunpak 383+multiple lighting scenarios in one house, heh.
 

OdiN

Banned
Mar 1, 2000
16,430
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Originally posted by: angry hampster
Originally posted by: OdiN
I have a flip-it and was not impressed.

Have you tried using anything else? I refuse to use a lightsphere because they look absurd.

I tried two different kinds of flash mini softboxes and also some other thing that I can't remember what it is.

I still just end up using bounce flash.
 

spikespiegal

Golden Member
Oct 10, 2005
1,219
9
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I still just end up using bounce flash.

Yeah, same here.

I used to handle *thousands* of professional weddings years ago, and have seen the results of every contraption on the market. The problem we're trying to solve with on camera flash is easy to explain, but tougher to resolve. Marketing has made it more confusing.

The most direct, consistent and effective means of getting decent, on camera flash is to get the flash head about 2-feet above the lens. This in itself will produce the best pictures...better than any other on camera technique. Having a bare flash tube elevated a couple of feet above the lens will produce better on camera portraits than any other gizmo here that's not mounted as high.

Bounce flash is a close second......actually better if you have white, low ceilings to work with and in that respect we agree. The only problem is outdoors or when dealing with very high ceilings.

Lightdomes are frankly stupid because they require surrounding surfaces to work. As a wedding photog I don't have time to worry about the color and distance to nearby walls and ceilings because my 'milk-jug-on-a-flash' might not work otherwise. If it's a large room, or outdoors, or high ceilings then a lightdome does nothing but eat light.

Omni-bounce, lumiquest and bounce cards are pretty much the same beast. They work good in respect that they move the flash point higher up and increase the size of the flash spot. Problem is they don't move the flash point up high enough. I'd like to see one of these that uses a much higher head point elevatign the flash source 20"above the lens with some kind of light-pipe tube surrounding the flash. That would be ideal in my book.

Side saddle flash like the classic Metz units are the most horriod device flash devices every made. The flash from the side produces nasty nose and eye shadows, and looks terrible.

So, how about flipping orientations? *Sigh*.....I know we have brackets that can do this, but years ago I gave up and just mounted my camera vertically and kept it that way for most of the wedding. I rarely go horizontal anyways unless it's a group shot. This is where 6x6 film shooters had it best because they didn't need to flip their camera - just crop the resulting image accordingly.