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Goop on Battery Cables

S

shawn130c

Senior member
In February of this year I bought a 06 Chevy Equinox. Today, I had my first major issue. I just got done filling up the tank when my car completely lost all power in the middle of a right turn. Luckily I had enough room to pop the hood, giggle the battery cable and I was able to reverse and get into a safe area.

While inspecting everything, I noticed two things. Fist was that Battery nut that holds the cables down where loose and I tighten it. This is what I expect caused my main issue with loss of power. Though I am more concerned about the second issue. It appear that my cables have either gotten real hot or something happened to them to look like they have melted and there is some type of "goop" that has hardened on it.

See picture:

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9964/carbatterygoop.jpg

Currently the car is at the dealership and they said the battery and everything is fine and they did not replace the cable. Is this something I need to worry about or just leave as it is?

I am still covered by the gm certified warranty bumper to bumper for another 2000 or so miles and really don't want this to become a problem. I am currently still at work and haven't had a chance to talk to the dealership but wanted to get some info before talking to them.

Thanks for any assistance,
Shawn

Cliff Notes:
-Car lost power today
-Goop on battery cables, dealership says everything is fine
-Should I be worried?
 
That "goop" is actually dielectric grease which is used to preserve the life of the battery terminals and the associated connections. It's a good thing and by the looks of it, you need an application of it..
 
The Boston Dangler said:
are you sure it's dielectric?
Click to expand...
I had the exact same colored stuff on my sister's Volvo S60 battery terminals... The stuff I use is silicone based while the stuff on hers could be based on something else.. Either way, it's basically grease and it's to prevent corrosion which is definitely a problem in an area like near the battery.
 
fleabag said:
I had the exact same colored stuff on my sister's Volvo S60 battery terminals... The stuff I use is silicone based while the stuff on hers could be based on something else.. Either way, it's basically grease and it's to prevent corrosion which is definitely a problem in an area like near the battery.
Click to expand...

2l8fbwl.jpg
 
Looks like grease that has been there for a while...

GreaseDripping_2.gif


I can't tell if it is dielectric or not just by looking...

Adding some dielectric grease should reduce the corrosion of the terminal -

DSC04520-main_Full.jpg


I'm not sure about the battery being the cause of the power loss though, shouldn't the alternator be capable of providing electric power while the engine is running?

Any other problems recently?
 
The loose connection would have caused the heat.

However, the loose battery cable should not have caused any loss of electrical power.

Arcing from the loose connection could have bothered the engine computer and caused a stall.
 
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Yeah, the loose connection -> high resistance -> heat -> the black sheathing melting/splitting. The 'goop' doesn't look like dielectric grease but maybe a byproduct of the plastic melting.
 
About 2 months ago the battery terminal that was around my battery in my Ford Expedition cracked. The cables attached to that "terminal." When it cracked it caused a short that would drain the battery anytime it rained (needed rain water to connect the two sides).

Depending on if the problem continues you may need to replace the spade on the cable or the cable itself, depending on which is more practical to replace.
 
PlasmaBomb said:
Looks like grease that has been there for a while...

GreaseDripping_2.gif


I can't tell if it is dielectric or not just by looking...

Adding some dielectric grease should reduce the corrosion of the terminal -

DSC04520-main_Full.jpg


I'm not sure about the battery being the cause of the power loss though, shouldn't the alternator be capable of providing electric power while the engine is running?

Any other problems recently?
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the helpful replies. To answer your question PlasmaBomb, everything been good. The only other issue i have had recently with is that one day the car would not start but all electric were working. I figured out it was the sekurit anti-theft system. The keyfob battery was loose and once I reseated it started up fine.

I think your right that the alternator should have prevented the stall unless there was some type arc/short.

I will be talking to the dealer this afternoon after I get out of school. I am going to verify that they checked the alternator, should I verify anything else?

Also i am not sure if the cables are covered by the gm certified warranty, should I try to to get the dealer to replace the cable since there is obliviously some type of melting or just see how it works and if there are anymore power issues replace?

In addition on a completely separate topic, since I have it at the dealer I was thinking of having them change the transmission fluid (Basic Tranmission Fluid Exchange) for $190.00, If I recall correctly, the manual states that it only needs to be replace at 100K for normal service or 50K for severe. Since it is a used car and still under warranty I was thinking of just having them replace it to be safe. I don't know of a local place that I would trust with transmissions, but I can find one. Though is $190.00 a good price for this:

Install Transmission cleaner kit
Complete Fluid Exchange
Install Transmission conditioner
Adjust throttle linkage or cable (as needed)
Inspect transmission shift operation

or will a independent place be alot cheaper? I know it is tough to compare labor rates in different parts of the country and I am willing to pay to have the job done correctly but if this is an easy job that an independent place could do an equivalent job for cheaper that would be nice.

Thanks for all the great help,
Shawn
 
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Let me clarify something for you.... your car will DIE (meaning STALL) if you disconnect the battery cable while it's running. The battery is part of the circuit and if you disconnect it from the circuit, it is not complete and therefore the car won't run. It doesn't matter if the battery is providing electricity, if the circuit is incomplete, the car will die which is why a good connection with your battery is so important.

If you don't believe me, test this out yourself.
 
fleabag said:
Let me clarify something for you.... your car will DIE (meaning STALL) if you disconnect the battery cable while it's running. The battery is part of the circuit and if you disconnect it from the circuit, it is not complete and therefore the car won't run. It doesn't matter if the battery is providing electricity, if the circuit is incomplete, the car will die which is why a good connection with your battery is so important.

If you don't believe me, test this out yourself.
Click to expand...

or not...

You need the battery to start your car, as this will provide power for the starter and the fuel pump.

Once the car is started you can disconnect the battery and the car will run off of the alternator.

However, without a battery installed the alternator will continue to run higher and higher amperage trying to charge the battery that isn't there and without it, the alternator can go WAY overvoltage and fry things - Engine control unit, etc.

Granted I haven't tried it on any cars recently...

YMMV
 
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Oh noes, don't take the cable off your battery while the engine is running you'll bake the ECU... I've done it and my car continues to run and the ECU is just fine. Consult the manual for your vehicle though, not all are electrically the same.
 
fleabag said:
Let me clarify something for you.... your car will DIE (meaning STALL) if you disconnect the battery cable while it's running. The battery is part of the circuit and if you disconnect it from the circuit, it is not complete and therefore the car won't run. It doesn't matter if the battery is providing electricity, if the circuit is incomplete, the car will die which is why a good connection with your battery is so important.

If you don't believe me, test this out yourself.
Click to expand...

Okay, I don't believe this at all, but I have a company car I can test.

Be right back.
 
kornphlake said:
Oh noes, don't take the cable off your battery while the engine is running you'll bake the ECU... I've done it and my car continues to run and the ECU is just fine. Consult the manual for your vehicle though, not all are electrically the same.
Click to expand...

In case you didn't read or fail at comprehension... I have done it too.
 
kornphlake said:
Oh noes, don't take the cable off your battery while the engine is running you'll bake the ECU... I've done it and my car continues to run and the ECU is just fine. Consult the manual for your vehicle though, not all are electrically the same.
Click to expand...

I suppose I should also mention that there is a difference in doing it at idle and doing it before a high speed run on the interstate...

(for belt driven alternators at least).
 
1996 Lumina 3.1L V6

Connected Scangauge and started engine. 14.7 Volts.

Disconnected + cable (too hard to get to -)

Engine did not skip a beat. Scangauge indicates voltage is fluctuating a little, about .5V.

Turned on headlights, rear defogger and A/C.

No noticeable change. Car seems fine. Voltage still okay.

No dash lights.

Car is still running without a battery. About 15 minutes now.

It could not care less that there's no battery.
 
LTC8K6 said:
1996 Lumina 3.1L V6

Connected Scangauge and started engine. 14.7 Volts.

Disconnected + cable (too hard to get to -)

Engine did not skip a beat. Scangauge indicates voltage is fluctuating a little, about .5V.

Turned on headlights, rear defogger and A/C.

No noticeable change. Car seems fine. Voltage still okay.

No dash lights.

Car is still running without a battery. About 15 minutes now.

It could not care less that there's no battery.
Click to expand...

Congratulations... your alternator isn't broken.
 
fleabag said:
Let me clarify something for you.... your car will DIE (meaning STALL) if you disconnect the battery cable while it's running. The battery is part of the circuit and if you disconnect it from the circuit, it is not complete and therefore the car won't run. It doesn't matter if the battery is providing electricity, if the circuit is incomplete, the car will die which is why a good connection with your battery is so important.

If you don't believe me, test this out yourself.
Click to expand...

omfg lol... Total fail.

YAFP: Yet Another Fleabag Post =Posted based on information read from random places on the internet and garnered from experience driving older sister's car.
 
The Boston Dangler said:
shawn130c, any news?
Click to expand...

Called the dealer early afternoon and verified they checked everything of importance. I also asked if we could replace the cable and they said they would but they would have to order it... I was hoping it would be a quick thing and just pickup up tomorrow, but it isn't the case. I need my car with final week coming up and decided against having them replace the cable and see what happens.

So I just picked up my car and so far everything seems fine.
Worst case if it happens again or any other weird power issues my original problem is documented and was checked by them.

Thanks for all the help.
 
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