Good quit fans?

[Cappuccino]

I need another fan for my PC. Currently I have the NF-F12 120mm Premium fan. Are there any better ones? Around same price? I can pay a little more I guess. Fan (must be 120mm) must be good and quiet. Thanks

 

[UsandThem]

NF-S12B Redux 1200 (3-pin or 4-pin).

$14 at Amazon.

The only downside with the Redux 3-pin fans is they don't come with the low-noise adapters, so it would be up to a fan controller or your motherboard to prevent them running full speed.

 

[aigomorla]

what is the fan going to be used for?

on a heat sink?
on the rear exhaust?
on a intake pulling though a fan grill..

there is no single fan which can do all.
Well there are, but they can get loud really fast if not kept in check.
But if its a set specific task, there are fans that do better jobs then others at set jobs due to blade geometry.

 

[Cappuccino]

4 pins. Fans is not for the heatsink.

 

[aigomorla]

4 pins. Fans is not for the heatsink.

so u need a pwm fan, and is it for a rear exhaust? or is it pulling from the front though a fan filter?

 

[master_shake_]

the answer is noctua.

it's always noctua.

i'm even putting 4 in my arcade

2 in the top and 2 in the back.

 

[Crono]

be quiet! PURE WINGS 2 (PWM)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V3S01908

 

[JeffMD]

I picked up a pure wings 2 (PWM) to replace the Corsair air fan that was pretty much my nosiest fan. The pure wings is a super quiet fan with average air flow. I didn't have any major requirement so it was just what I needed. Now my system is eerily quiet.

 

[Cappuccino]

NF-S12B Redux 1200 (3-pin or 4-pin).

$14 at Amazon.

The only downside with the Redux 3-pin fans is they don't come with the low-noise adapters, so it would be up to a fan controller or your motherboard to prevent them running full speed.

Thank you! Bought 2

Thanks everyone! :thumbsup:

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Thank you! Bought 2

Thanks everyone! :thumbsup:

Good for you.

Just by way of comment. Aigo's question about fan-filtering could be important if you already had a strategy of choosing fans for different purposes. I use fans of lower static pressure, larger size (140 or 200mm), lower RPM and modest amperage for intake fans.

Recently, I have used end-of-month chump-change to buy DEMCiFlex magnetic filters made with medical-grade mesh. This changes the equation, but it so far hasn't shown itself in reduced cooling effectiveness. Of course, the original strategy inclined to overwhelming the case with intake higher than the rated exhaust.

On the exhaust end, I've never hesitated to put a Nidec Servo Gentle Typhoon AP-30 PWM fan at the rear exhaust port and ducted to the rear broad-side of a heatpipe cooler. I've seen many reviews about the 4,250 RPM fan, tested at different speeds under that top-end. But I have two of them deployed identically between PCs. I discovered only today that there was also an AP-31 fan with higher CFM, higher RPM, and higher top-end dBA. [Maybe someone has a few to sell new in the original package!]

The type of sound (motor/bearing or air-turbulence) is an important consideration. It is also important to understand that the former class of sound can be attenuated through use of acoustic-deadening foam rubber padding. In combination with panels of foam art-board, one can avoid getting your beautiful aluminum case-interior all stuck up with the adhesive mess when you later decide it isn't needed.

Since you don't see those fans on the market anymore, I've concluded that the best replacement -- at least for me -- is a Noctua iPPC 3000 120mm fan.

But both of these fans have a much more acceptable noise-level at lower RPMs, leaving the acoustic foam aside. Except for LinPack and other stress-testing, my AP-30s never exceed 3,250 RPM if even that, the foam-rubber does its work, and they're dead-quiet at lower speeds. The foam-rubber mod I've used seemed to give me sound at that speed similar to that heard otherwise at around 2,500. Other factors and remedies: rubber fan-mounts or "isolators," or anything else that will isolate the fan-shroud from case-metal. For instance, little triangles of the acoustic rubber padding with holes from an hand-held paper-punch can be stuck to the corners of a fan, and still work with the rubber mounts. All of this stuff adds up.

The only deterrent to using other Noctua fans is the price, which I think typically can be around $22 each, and I'd seen the iPPC fan at $30.

So the rule I follow: never use sleeve-bearing fans. If you can find a ball-bearing, "hydrodynamic," "Mag-Lev" etc., pick that fan over a rifle-bearing fan. If you can't use the fan with the highest MTBF, get the next-best. Certain fans work fine sitting upright in a vertical position, but flip them 90 degrees to the horizontal and troubles develop, so that also bears some research if it matters.

I also use Akasa Viper fans, which have about half the MTBF spec as your iPPCs. Those other Noctuas mentioned in thread respondents also look very interesting, and I can imagine how I could use a few.

 

[Crono]

I also use Akasa Viper fans, which have about half the MTBF spec as your iPPCs.

:hmm: Hmm, those Vipers look good. Bookmarked - going to order one or two for next build.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

:hmm: Hmm, those Vipers look good. Bookmarked - going to order one or two for next build.

Well, they make the 140x25mm fans in at least two models: traditional-square, and round with 120mm mounting holes. Square gives you a maximum 110CFM; round provides about 100CFM. I've never tried the 120's. I think the 140's run up to about 1,600 RPM -- could be higher but not lower. I use them for PWM-controlled intake, but could use them also for exhaust or CPU. I guess I favor them for intake over the price of Noctuas. And if an old used Sharkoon works fine in a project, it saves me the chump change for ordering more Vipers.

 

[aigomorla]

the answer is noctua.

it's always noctua.

no its not..

u need a powerful radiator fan dont care about noise...
the answer is SanAce....

Need a server fan... again the answer is SanAce / Nidac.

Need a regular fan for radiators but dont want a lot of noise.. guess what, its called?
Again the Gentle Typhoon from nidac/scythe and not the noctua....

Infact the goto fan in about 80% of the application where u think a noctua is better is pretty much outclassed by a Gentle Typhoon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6RUV..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=SMWSCFFFXYC2RBHRDQH0


The only time where one picks a noctua over a GT?
Simple, when u dont need to push a lot of air, nor do you care about pushing a lot of air, but silence is absolutely golden, because thats the ONLY time a Noctua will outclass a Gentle Typhoon.

However if the OP needed just an open air fan which was gonna do nothing but push air out of a rear exhaust, she could save herself 8 dollars, and pick up some Rosewell fans, or a Yate Loon DSL-120. At 5-6 dollars each, they are the "generic" do all fans with good performance curve and excellent noise.

This is why i kept probing her to find out exactly what fan she wanted, and not just point her to the Gentle Typhoon or a Noctua.

be quiet! PURE WINGS 2 (PWM)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V3S01908

those fans look like a good alternative to rear exhaust fans as well.
The blade geometry suggest it can move a lot of air, but it lacks static pressure.

So that would mean, while it will do good for being placed in the rear, it will probably not do so good being radiator fans, or heat sink fans.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Aigo -- I agree with what you say about the Scythe/Nidec-Servo Gentle Typhoon fans. But I'll always take the more powerful model in the same line -- provided that I test it as successful in proving no less quiet or near so to the lower-powered fan model of lesser speed -- both in the comparison running at same RPM.

So that brings me to just ask you an honest question.

Have you had occasion to evaluate a Noctua iPPC fan firsthand? I've got two of the iPPC 3000 units. Their limit is 1,250 RPM less than the GT AP-30, but they still push a lot of air. I forgot the units of measurement, but the metric static pressure was about 6.?-something.

They designed the AP-30 and AP-31 for rack-mount server configurations -- to push a lot of air with only the concern for noise other than air turbulent white noise. They were thoughtful enough to add a clever sound-cancellation feature -- with the little holes around the intake hub.

The iPPC's are in a different class than the Noctua's otherwise mentioned in this thread -- and I have had a few of those: generally double the number of Noctua coolers I've owned. I never hesitated to turn the fan-shrouds into duct components. I have some of those beige circles lying around the room as I finish writing this.

Also, a footnote -- when I choose fans costing between $14 and $30, I always have an eye in mind to using each fan in different ways over time. A fan might spend three years in a computer, three more in the parts-locker, and then get reused in a new system. So I'd obviously gravitate toward the highest speed -- all things being equal otherwise. The major distinction for me is the likelihood that you'd ever use a 140mm fan for air-cooled exhaust, but some cases are designed for it. Water would be something different. You'd want the radiator at intake and some variation of push+pull. You want high static pressure there.

In my heatpipe systems, lower static pressure, slower speed, decent to high CFM and larger size are my choice for intake fans.

no its not..

u need a powerful radiator fan dont care about noise...
the answer is SanAce....

Need a server fan... again the answer is SanAce / Nidac.

Need a regular fan for radiators but dont want a lot of noise.. guess what, its called?
Again the Gentle Typhoon from nidac/scythe and not the noctua....

Infact the goto fan in about 80% of the application where u think a noctua is better is pretty much outclassed by a Gentle Typhoon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6RUV..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=SMWSCFFFXYC2RBHRDQH0


The only time where one picks a noctua over a GT?
Simple, when u dont need to push a lot of air, nor do you care about pushing a lot of air, but silence is absolutely golden, because thats the ONLY time a Noctua will outclass a Gentle Typhoon.

However if the OP needed just an open air fan which was gonna do nothing but push air out of a rear exhaust, she could save herself 8 dollars, and pick up some Rosewell fans, or a Yate Loon DSL-120. At 5-6 dollars each, they are the "generic" do all fans with good performance curve and excellent noise.

This is why i kept probing her to find out exactly what fan she wanted, and not just point her to the Gentle Typhoon or a Noctua.



those fans look like a good alternative to rear exhaust fans as well.
The blade geometry suggest it can move a lot of air, but it lacks static pressure.

So that would mean, while it will do good for being placed in the rear, it will probably not do so good being radiator fans, or heat sink fans.

 

[MongGrel]

I have a couple Gentle Typhoons myself, but they are older and do not look the same. They are nice fans.

I still prefer Noctuas myself, but you have to pick the ones you need for an application, I like the build on them and are quiet. I started using them about a decade ago and kinda took a lot of flack from people using Loons.

Have never tried the Be Quiets myself, but really haven't bought many fans I awhile I guess.

Even still have three old AC PWM's that daisy chain in the front of the drive cages on the old Antec 1200 that are quiet and work well there, my main concern has always been spending a few more bucks on a good fan that works well over time.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

It also depends on what you're willing to do for yourself, for a computer that will last you X years and a total of Y dollars. Spire acoustic pads are cheap at $8/box, each box adequate to paste the complete interior of a mid- or full-tower case. Black art board is about $7 per square yard. If it's a matter of maintaining high airflow while deadening a certain type of sound, it's like Dylan's "Highway 61:" "It can be very easily done." And without gumming up your case with hard-to-remove Spire foam and adhesive. Otherwise, without using the art-board as a base for the Spire, you'd need to pour a quart of acetone on the panels to remove it.

Noise can be deadened and cancelled. Once you buy a limp fan of low airflow, you can only use it for applications that require limpy low airflow. But if your projects always include limpy fans for certain aspects of a strategy, then you can buy those . . . too. . . .