Good place to find building plans for workbench?

[EQTitan]

I'd like to build a workbench on my basement but I have no clue where to begin, I've only ever put walls up, and built simple nook desks.

I've tried searching online with no good results. Any insight would be greatly appreciated....

 

[StageLeft]

I built this

a few months ago following these exact plans. I have no carpentry experience. It took me a few hours. I got the 2X4s from home depot and had them cut them, so then all I needed was the sheet of ply (also had them cut that) and my drill, a long drill bit, and some deck screws.

The thing is solid like a mother-@*#(er. I think it could be thrown off a cliff. Shockingly and quite inexplicably, after I put it together the thing ended up being totally flat on the ground; it doesn't rock _at all_ so no sanding of legs required on their bottom.

Oh, I also bought a plastic square for a few bucks (that's the thing that shows right angles).

Now, you don't have to do 32" height. I'd actually think about going a bit higher, depending on your own height. Also feel free, as I didn't and should have, to make it much longer.

That claims it can be made for $20. I think I may have spent closer to $30 in wood, but who's counting, it was a great build and I use it all the time.

 

[KMc]

I built mine in a similar fashion to the plans above, but for the top I used an unfinished interior door (solid wood core).

 

[FoBoT]

i bought a bench kit from home despot for about $50

 

[EQTitan]

That was a great article and my bench will be about 16' - 20' long (taking up the whole length of my back basement wall)

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: KMc
I built mine in a similar fashion to the plans above, but for the top I used an unfinished interior door (solid wood core).

Yes, that makes for a nice, smooth surface. You can also put "door skin" on top and if have access to a massive piece of aluminum (though that isn't cheap) put it on top, too! I think I will build another one, they are fun to build and then when it's done jump on it and it doesn't move, job well done!

 

[ravana]

I have gotten really interested in woodworking and furniture recently.

What's a good online resource to start at?

 

[StageLeft]

I just spent $120 today on more 2X4s and ply and finally a circular saw ($30!) and 5 lbs of screws. Going to build another one of these and put some smooth pegboard on the top for a smooth surface and either use this design or a similar one for a massive shelving system in the basement.

 

[trOver]

ours is about 12' long, 4' deep. made of plywood, (not cheap particle board...) and has two shelves. Actually, its two separate units, which are exact copies, stacked on top of eachother. very nice, lots of room.

we also have a peg board hung from the cieling (just attached bolts to rafters with 2x4's hanging down, with peg board screwed to 2x4's) which allows us to hang all our tools, etc

 

[skyking]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
I just spent $120 today on more 2X4s and ply and finally a circular saw ($30!) and 5 lbs of screws. Going to build another one of these and put some smooth pegboard on the top for a smooth surface and either use this design or a similar one for a massive shelving system in the basement.

I'll take a pic of the shelving system I built in the garage. I used some 7 ply "1/2 hardwood plywood for smoothness and durability, and used a table saw with a dado blade to cut a corner out of the 2x4's. This way the shelf has a solid 2x4 edge, and the plywood is recessed into that for a smooth fit and finish. I ripped a 2x6 in half for the back support screwed to the wall, since it was getting supported every "24. The whole thing was built using the phillips or square drive screws.
I designed it to fit the rubbermade "clear impressions" bins.


Edit: you can achieve the recessed effect using that circular saw and a guide, or another piece of wood screwed to it as a guide.

 

[vi edit]

This was a very easy, and inexpensive bench that I threw together in my garage:

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/viedit/bench1.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/viedit/bench2.JPG

I lagged a 2x6 the length of the bench along the wall. I then used these metal "elbow" braces that let you mount a 2x4 perpendicular along the 2x6. Those were my braces under the work surface. I used 4x4's up front for the legs and then used tapcons to secure them into the concrete floor. The work surface is 2x9's.

Instead of 2x9's you could use a formica countertop surface like I used on the return. Or you could have someone come in and put a stainless steel cover over it.

This thing will support A TON of weight.

 

[ZzZGuy]

I built this model building desk from scratch and made my own blueprints, with very limited experience (built a working catapult, not one in pic).
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...Models/5424Jan_009.jpg

Figure out what hight you want it to be, most likely same hight of some existing table. How big do you want the legs and the length/width of the top. Make a blueprint on some graph paper with all the dimensions with 3 views (top, front, side) to help get the measurements right (if it's simple enough you can skip this).

I find kitchen counter tops to work great for a work surface and it's durable, easy to clean, smooth and attractive. It's easier then getting sheet aluminum and cutting it to shape. although that would be a more durable surface.

Also note that adding triangle pieces of wood in the corners will make it more sturdy and stop it from wobbling. When using screws it's best to pre-drill the holes to avoid cracks (drill bit being smaller then the screw). Add wood glue to the connections if you feel the need (apply to both sides).

And when in doubt, find something that works (like at a store), see how it's put together and copy it.

-edit- If you use kitchen counter top, you should run some support underneath it such as 2x4 '(2by4's). The surface is quite durable but it's week when bent such as putting a heavy load in the middle. -edit-

 

[Sluggo]

For a novice woodworker, this looks like an easy system to assemble.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: skyking

Originally posted by: Skoorb
I just spent $120 today on more 2X4s and ply and finally a circular saw ($30!) and 5 lbs of screws. Going to build another one of these and put some smooth pegboard on the top for a smooth surface and either use this design or a similar one for a massive shelving system in the basement.

I'll take a pic of the shelving system I built in the garage. I used some 7 ply "1/2 hardwood plywood for smoothness and durability, and used a table saw with a dado blade to cut a corner out of the 2x4's. This way the shelf has a solid 2x4 edge, and the plywood is recessed into that for a smooth fit and finish. I ripped a 2x6 in half for the back support screwed to the wall, since it was getting supported every "24. The whole thing was built using the phillips or square drive screws.
I designed it to fit the rubbermade "clear impressions" bins.


Edit: you can achieve the recessed effect using that circular saw and a guide, or another piece of wood screwed to it as a guide.

Not sure how much you have built but the inch mark goes after a number like a foot mark does.

24" not "24

 

[StageLeft]

Sheet aluminum is an awesome surface but where can I buy any? Lowes didn't have it, hence the flat pegboard I bought...

 

[Dubb]

google for "industrial supply" places in your area.

alternatively theres mcmaster-carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[Eos]

I went a little further and have no screw heads showing unless you look underneath the surface.

01

02

03

04

The main "box" is an 8 foot 2x4 screwed to studs along the wall, with another 8 footer out front and a stringer in between to make the total depth 24". The facing 8 footer has notches in it at the ends and the middle to make space for the legs which are screwed in from the back. You can see pic 2 and it looks like two 2x4s make up the front of the box, but it's just one.

I'm using 1 1/8 t&g plywood flooring with the tongue removed so it sits flush against the wall.

The benchtop is held down by 2x2 material first screwed to the box, then to the benchtop, all from underneath. That is pic 4, looking up to the bottom of the benchtop.

As you can guess this was overkill, but I am happy with it.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Dubb
google for "industrial supply" places in your area.

alternatively theres mcmaster-carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Metal in the yellowpages too.

Those plans are the typical bench, however; I'd go with ply for the bottom even if only 1/4" over any chip/particle board.

The previous owner did this and it falls apart in humidity over time.

I have a nice 1.5 car garage sized detached workshop. They converted the carport/garage on the house to an office which is nice (I usually don't garage my cars anyway).

I am going to redo the tops and bottoms soon. I have a metal topped interior table that's great for projects. Don't know if I want metal for my workshop though, I may build on area with a thick steel insert though. I like to work on wood to prevent marring a surface.

 

[skyking]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: skyking

Originally posted by: Skoorb
I just spent $120 today on more 2X4s and ply and finally a circular saw ($30!) and 5 lbs of screws. Going to build another one of these and put some smooth pegboard on the top for a smooth surface and either use this design or a similar one for a massive shelving system in the basement.

I'll take a pic of the shelving system I built in the garage. I used some 7 ply "1/2 hardwood plywood for smoothness and durability, and used a table saw with a dado blade to cut a corner out of the 2x4's. This way the shelf has a solid 2x4 edge, and the plywood is recessed into that for a smooth fit and finish. I ripped a 2x6 in half for the back support screwed to the wall, since it was getting supported every "24. The whole thing was built using the phillips or square drive screws.
I designed it to fit the rubbermade "clear impressions" bins.


Edit: you can achieve the recessed effect using that circular saw and a guide, or another piece of wood screwed to it as a guide.

Not sure how much you have built but the inch mark goes after a number like a foot mark does.

24" not "24

I guess I am delectively syslexic

 

[StageLeft]

I went hog with the new circular saw last night. I'm very glad I didn't spend more than $30. It cuts like crazy with its (comparitively) small 10 AMP motor, no problem through 2X4s or ply and it's not like I need it to last through building a house. It's a TaskForce brand from Lowes and appears it will work well for me.

I'm going to be building a 3 level 12 foot by 3 foot shelving system based on the same overall approach in the workbench plan I put in the second post. It has to be free standing, unfortunately, hence that particular approach. I'll build another workbench, too, but at least 6 feet long and perhaps a bit deeper, too. I used all deck screws last time and will this time also. I keep its top flat where the screws go in with a special drill bit that rounds out the entry hole so that screws can be screwed in with their heads flush with the surface.

 

[HomeBrewerDude]

Originally posted by: vi_edit
This was a very easy, and inexpensive bench that I threw together in my garage:

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/viedit/bench1.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/viedit/bench2.JPG

I lagged a 2x6 the length of the bench along the wall. I then used these metal "elbow" braces that let you mount a 2x4 perpendicular along the 2x6. Those were my braces under the work surface. I used 4x4's up front for the legs and then used tapcons to secure them into the concrete floor. The work surface is 2x9's.

Instead of 2x9's you could use a formica countertop surface like I used on the return. Or you could have someone come in and put a stainless steel cover over it.

This thing will support A TON of weight.

I've built a couple of things for my garage. Basically I've used 1/4 panels of plywood so everything (two work benches, two shelving units) has a 2' x 4' footprint. This provides plenty of depth, and using framing braces (e.g., 2x4connector.jpg) they are plenty sturdy (non-wobbly).

 

[WildHorse]

One option :

visit your local public library & if available there, check out this book:

The New Yankee Workshop

by Norm Abram, ISBN 0-316-00454-5

Chapter 2 is dedicated to plans and step-by-step instructions on how to make a workbench.

Norm tends to make things a little complicated, but that could serve you as a basis for making your own excellent workbench by simplifying his plan. You could go on the web where you have to pay for the exact same plans, but your library probably has it free.


While you're there, look for this book, which is one of the better ones I've seen & read:

The complete illustrated guide to furniture & cabinet construction

by Andy Rae, ISBN 1-56158-402-9


edit: link repair

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Skoorb
I keep its top flat where the screws go in with a special drill bit that rounds out the entry hole so that screws can be screwed in with their heads flush with the surface.

countersink bit.

Deck screws will tend to countersink themselves as well.