Good News - My KK266 works! Duron@1000

[White Widow]

Last month I bought a KK266 from NewEgg, and a Duron 750 in hopes of reaching 1000MHz. After penciling the L1's maybe 20 different times, and reading the awful stories here about the KK266, I pretty much figured I had a dud. The mutipliers were all over the place and when I put the jumper to "133" it wouldn't boot, even with the voltage set to 1.85v (1.91v really) in BIOS. I was sad.

However, about 20 minutes ago I read that connecting the L7's defualts the chip to 1.85v and I thought that perhaps the voltage "upping" from the BIOS adjustment might work like the multipler in that the computer boots at default settings, and then changes to the BIOS settings. So, I penciled the L7's, moved the jumper to "133" and....yes! POST at 1000MHz! Every voltage below 1.85v (1.91v) and I can't get toi Windows. Yet, at 1.85v I have a rock-stable system. At least 15 minutes of Prime95 went fine. Some more testing is definately in order.

NOTE - Since 133MHz operation works, can I assume that if I use a "better" method for unlcoking the chip then it will work fine, or ios it possible to have a KK266 that runs at 133MHz+ but still has wacky multiplier problems?

Thanks.

I installed the TurkOC 227 BIOS, and my meory scores are through the roof! Especially since my last system was a Celeron 600@900 on a P3V4X.

Sandra and WCPUID image files

 

[White Widow]

Well, the multiplier is still WACK! Does anyone know if Mr. TurkOC is modding the 305 BIOS? Does anyone knwo his email address? I have a few questions...

-Aaron

 

[PlunX]

You should consider yourself -very- lucky.. I had a KK266 that had multiplier problems (I could only overclock through the front side bus) and whenever I tried to reset, nothing ever happened.. I had to power down and turn everything back on just to get it running again. I RMA'd that one and I'm waiting for a new one to come.

 

[White Widow]

Did you RMA it to Iwill or the reatiler where you originally bought it? I am RMA-ing directly to iwill since they are now aware of the problem and only replacing RAMed boards with *known* good ones. I just hope they will ship first with a deposit...

-Aaron

 

[Regalk]

To White Widow
That is the correct procedure for the cold boot/reset problem. By pencilling in the L7 bridges the CPU can boot at 1.85 or higher which is enough to be able read the BIOS settings afterwards. I had a post on this procedure but apparently noone seemed interested! My KK266 now runs real sweet - no problems at all.

 

[White Widow]

Yeah, but I still can't adjust the multiplier. Can you?

-Aaron

 

[CichliSuite]

"1.85v (1.91v really)"

Does this refer to the difference between what the bios says and what MBM or other minotring software reads? I get teh same thing but have no idea why.

Anyone?

 

[White Widow]

My understanding is that thie board simply "overvolts" the CPU by about .6v to ensure stability. My P3V4X actually ran about .3v *under* what it was set to operate at. This is fine with me, since it is only at 1.91v that I can run 1000MHz with 100% stability. If you are concerned, set your voltage about .5v below where you really want it, and you'll be fine.

-Aaron

 

[Avatar26]

Does anyone know of the T-birds that come with the L1 bridges unlocked from the factory also have the L7 bridges unlocked? I'm getting wierd lockups and my voltage setting at 2.5 is .29!!! Any help?

 

[White Widow]

Many people are reporting very odd readings from the 2.5v line. VIA Hardware Monitor reports that I have 0.35b on the 2.5v line. I am ASSUMING that this is just a mis-read by the BIOS, but it *could* be related to the mis-placed resisitor that is responsible for the multiplier problems and the massive Iwill RMA. What revision is your board? Do you have a 0 OHM resistor at R356 or R357 (near DIMM-1)?

-Aaron

 

[Avatar26]

I have revision 1.1 I don't know where the resistor is, I can't see with everything put together and I'll be damned if I'm gonna take this puppy apart right now...

 

[White Widow]

If you have a Rev 1.1 board then it's probably not related to the resistor fiasco. It just something that affects ALL KK266's I guess. My thinking is this: if the 2.5v line were at all critical and if it were really running at .35v then someting major would not be working, and everything seems more or less fine. So, it must be a reporting error.

-Aaron

 

[soundsation]

I believe the wrong reading voltage not just for Iwill MB, mightbe all KT133A, I have Soltek SL-75KAv and the voltage reading off too.

And there is cold boot problem too with this mobo if I OC my Duron 750 to 933, for 866 there is no problem at all.

I'm gonna try to close L7, cos my Duron won't boot at all @ 1G. Luckily I have the dip switch multiplier setting, first I think this is the hassle but no problem for multiplier at all

 

[White Widow]

Yeah, I used a conductive pen on the L7's and I was finally able to boot 7.5x133-1000Mhz.

-Aaron

 

[soundsation]

WELLDONE!!!!
Yup finally 1000 MHz!!!
I read about this in many KT133 site and for me it is make a lot of sense.
For now I am happy, gonna try higher FSB !!!

 

[tigereye]

So, we just connect all of the L7s just like the L1s, and everything should be good to go?

 

[White Widow]

Crossing the L7's should get almost every Duron700+ to 1000MHz. At least it will POST. I had one Duron that I ten LOWERED the voltage in BIOS to 1.80 and would run fine at 1000. The Duron 750 I have now will run at 1000/1.85v but won't make it through Prime95 Torture Test. Crossing the L7's won't have any effect on your ability to control the multiplier, though.

On another note - Can someone recommend a good Duron copper spacer? Is it worth it? I have noticed that my entire Duron gets pretty hot, not just the core, so I thought a spacer might help keep it a little cooler. Also, I *slightly* chipped the corner of the core, and I would like to keep this from happening again. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Aaron