GMC 1500 brake pads (Also brake problem help) (UPDATE: Half done! One rotor replaced)

[kherman]

OK, my brakes are making a gridning noise. Time for new brakes is my guess. If I'm wrong, let me know.

Info; 1996 GMC 1500 4.3 litre V6, 4x2

Anyways, I went all over the place online looking for new brake pads. No where can I find a place that says "brake pads, $X.XX". There are shims and all this other crap. What do I need? I have hte service manual at home and plan on doing it myself.

Karl

 

[MajesticMoose]

IIRC the grinding sound is often from the rivets that hold the pad together digging into the rotor. I wouldn't want to drive with that happening if i were you. Best thing to do is just go to a autozone or other such place and pick them up,but using a different car.

 

[kherman]

Oh boy, I'll be picking them up after work! Auto zone is on hte way home, thankfully. It's been making this noise for a while now, but hte thing is, the brakes never started making that loud high pitched wanring nose that brakes have built in now. Just started grinding....

 

[kherman]

Not bad, $50 bucks forsome good ones. Found themat Auto Zone's web site.

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: kherman
OK, my brakes are making a gridning noise. Time for new brakes is my guess. If I'm wrong, let me know.

Info; 1996 GMC 1500 4.3 litre V6, 4x2

Anyways, I went all over the place online looking for new brake pads. No where can I find a place that says "brake pads, $X.XX". There are shims and all this other crap. What do I need? I have hte service manual at home and plan on doing it myself.

Karl

Look through the Wheel and see if you can see the rotor, is it still flat for the most part or is there major grooves in it. If there are major grooves, like metal to metal, then you will need some new rotors.

But when you go to Autozone they have 2 types of brakepad, one the standard and heavy duty. Get the standard if you don't plan on keeping the truck more than 30K, get the heavy duty if you plan on keeping it more than 30K. Price should be $18standard and $35Heavy duty, give or take.
BUT please replace the rotors if they need it, if not just turn them, some Autozones will turn rotors.

But for prices you can go to Autozone.com and look up parts and prices.

 

As was just stated, you have worn the pads down to either the rivits or right down to the backing plate.
If this is the case, you must either turn the rotors or replace them.
Be careful when retracting the Caliper pistons, some GM pistons tend to cock sideways in the bore of the caliper.
Don't forget to apply Anti Squeal to the backside of the brake pads before you install them.
(Some Gm's do have anti squeal shims from the factory)

 

[kherman]

Oh boy, this doesn't sound good.

OK, I've never done this before and it seems like I need this fixed ASAP. Maybe my entrance into replacing my own brakes should be put on hold. Is this something a "newbie" can do in less than 4 hours? I guess, that includes new pads and turning the rotors. Should I just take my truck to a shop?

Karl

 

[kherman]

If there are groves in the rotor, what would happen if I didn't rotate the rotors?

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: kherman
If there are groves in the rotor, what would happen if I didn't rotate the rotors?

I don't think rotateing the rotors will do you any good , But if they have grooves that are not that bad then you need to turn them or they will just rip into your new pads and they will not last long and you will probable have a nice shake everytime you hit the brakes.

I think the 96 still ueses the rotor as a hub. So you need to take the Caliper and Caliper bracket off then there is a nut under the cap in the center of the rotor. Take this off and the rotor will comes off. Just be careful as there is a bearing on the outside you need to take out so you don't damage it. Then take the rotor off and remove the rear seal and there will be the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with brake clean and repack them in some good bearing grease AFTER you turn the rotor or replace it. Then with Turned/NEW rotor put the greased bearings in teh rotor and install a NEW seal in the rear of the rotor. Installation is reverse of removal.

Sounds harder than it is, get a haynes manual from Autozone if in doubt, they have good brakes pictures on how to do it. Once you do it you will never pay for another brake job, expect mabye drums

 

[kherman]

Oh boy. OK, I'm leaving work early today.

I need to know everything I need to get at autozone.
1) break clean (brand, etc)
2) Brake Grease (brand, etc) Need a grease gun, right???
3) Brake pads
4) maybe a rotor.
5) Anit squeal (brand,etc)

What stuff is behind the counter normally and what's usually out on the floor?

Do I need a C-Clamp? I have a 5" at home. I can pick up the poper sized ones at home depot.

If the rotors have never been rotated in the past, is there any reason I would need new ones now??? Jsut rotate them.

I laready have the haynes manual, jsut never got around to doing the brakes At work right now, so I don't have access to it. Also need to puyt a new thermostat in. That will be next weekends post

I've packed bearing in grease before (on my mountain bikes), so that's not much of an issue, other than the fact that Idon't have the grease/grease gun right now.

 

[Aceman]

If it's grinding, just drop $50 or so on new rotors for both sides.

<------Aceman's Grand Am goes through brakes and rotors twice a year lately. (The big problem is that my rear breaks are out of whack and need tightening)

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: kherman
Oh boy. OK, I'm leaving work early today.

I need to know everything I need to get at autozone.
1) break clean (brand, etc)
2) Brake Grease (brand, etc) Need a grease gun, right???
3) Brake pads
4) maybe a rotor.
5) Anit squeal (brand,etc)

What stuff is behind the counter normally and what's usually out on the floor?

Do I need a C-Clamp? I have a 5" at home. I can pick up the poper sized ones at home depot.

If the rotors have never been rotated in the past, is there any reason I would need new ones now??? Jsut rotate them.

I laready have the haynes manual, jsut never got around to doing the brakes At work right now, so I don't have access to it. Also need to puyt a new thermostat in. That will be next weekends post

I've packed bearing in grease before (on my mountain bikes), so that's not much of an issue, other than the fact that Idon't have the grease/grease gun right now.

1. Just get cheap kind, I use Autozones brand
2. Bearing grease, just get some Hi-Temp bearing grease, about $3
3. Like I said before, more than 30K good ones, less than 30K then get the standards
4. See if yours can be turned, if not just get a set from the AZ
5. When yu get the brakepads, ask for a small single pack of Brake pad grease

Your C-Clamp should do fine.

And don't rotate your rotors from one side to the other, if thats what you are talking about. Either have them Turned, if they can't be turned, then just pick up a couple of NEW ones. And don't forget new seals, about $2 each, and only need 2(one for each side).
Also you don't need a grease gun, just buy a tub of Hi-Temp bearing grease.

 

[kherman]

OK, I'm off to autozone. WISH ME LUCK! I have about 8 hours to complet e my task I'm going to rotate(flip) the rotors unless I find they need much more work than anticipated.

Karl

 

[Ornery]

Wow, I'll give ya an 'A' for effort on something you've never done before, but wow...

You've got lots of good info so far, but you're not tuned in to some of it. You're confusing "turning the rotors" with rotating them. You have no choice but to take the ones on the truck back to AutoZone and have them "turned" (machined). If there's not enough meat on them, you'll have to buy new ones. Make sure you find a place that has them in stock before you go.

The more expensive pads have more metallic content and are able to still function under heavy use. Screw those, they're the ones with the built in squeal. The only other odd parts you may need are spring clips used to prevent rattle and for holding them in place. Wouldn't hurt to have the kit handy, in case you need them. Just return them if you don't use 'em.

I'm assuming you're reading this after you've returned from work and the first trip to AutoZone. Good luck from here on out!

 

[kherman]

UPDATE!!!

I did the driver side's front today. Not bad. Never did it before and it only took about 2.5 hours. Did a sh1tty job lubing the bearings, but there is plenty of grease(bearing lube, whatever it's called) in there. Just wanted it to be fixed. You should see how bad the rotor was. In all seriousness, about 25% of the rotor was gone! Well, one side of it anyways. The pads were just pieces of metal.

Was going to do the passenger side too, but the damn hex wrench got stripped. My truck requires one.... Anyways, went to Sears afterwards(at night) and bought a crastsman brand set of hex heads for socket wrenches. Also picked up a 1 3/16" socket for the damn bearing nut. Had to use a metric wrench that was almost perfect to do it the first time. Was very close in size, so no damage occured.

Fortunately, the drivers side front brakes were the ones making the grinding noise, so the passenger side's can wait one day. I'll most likely be returning the second rotor unless I get it off and it's a mess. From what I saw from taking the wheel off, it's in very good shape right now.

Ornery - Thanks for the props in doing this as a first timer

I also had the priveledge of buying a 3.5 ton jack today. Went balls deep on that one $150 Could have got the 2.25 ton jack for $50, but I have rules about things that I only intend on buying once. "Only buy it once "

Not bad. A new set of front pads, one new rotor. About $80 total so far. Another $50 if the passenger side needs a new rotor. Wow, never going to a shop again for repairs like this!!!! What a savings. The jack, literally paid for itself!!!

At this time, I must say THANK YOU to everyone for the advice and encouragement. It was very much appreciated.

 

[kherman]

Originally posted by: Ornery
Wow, I'll give ya an 'A' for effort on something you've never done before, but wow...

You've got lots of good info so far, but you're not tuned in to some of it. You're confusing "turning the rotors" with rotating them. You have no choice but to take the ones on the truck back to AutoZone and have them "turned" (machined). If there's not enough meat on them, you'll have to buy new ones. Make sure you find a place that has them in stock before you go.

The more expensive pads have more metallic content and are able to still function under heavy use. Screw those, they're the ones with the built in squeal. The only other odd parts you may need are spring clips used to prevent rattle and for holding them in place. Wouldn't hurt to have the kit handy, in case you need them. Just return them if you don't use 'em.

I'm assuming you're reading this after you've returned from work and the first trip to AutoZone. Good luck from here on out!

Took me a second. I finally understand what is meant by having the rotor turned means. Thanks Ya, I'm new to this ....