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google gmail lite and click the one from technews.it or something. I sometimes use it to get around filter proxy when i need to check mail..
edit: actually jus checked it and the site now seems overrun with ads.. Guess you should look for another place.. Whether it is *safe and reliable* depends on whether it is a trusted host i gues... Does anyone know where to find the gmail lite script so i could host it for myself?
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