Gigabyte Z68-UD4-B3 - need a case recommendation

abekl

Senior member
Jul 2, 2011
264
0
71
This motherboard has those darn front mounted SATA ports. It is impossible to hook up my drives because my Antec Nine Hundred two V3 case has front fans that push the drive cages back, and they in turn, interfere with the SATA ports. I hope I have described this adequately.

I need a case with ample room in front of the motherboard where the SATA ports are. I'd like to keep it to under a hundred dollars if possible, and I require at least one USB 3 port on the front panel.
 

lsv

Golden Member
Dec 18, 2009
1,610
0
71
Will these fit with the 902?

SA-45R-B.jpg
 

lsv

Golden Member
Dec 18, 2009
1,610
0
71
This case suffers from the same design flaw as the antec it would replace. Notice how the lower drive bays are pushed back toward the motherboard? That's the same problem I'm facing now.

Is there any way to remove the lower drive cage?
 

dawp

Lifer
Jul 2, 2005
11,347
2,710
136
This case suffers from the same design flaw as the antec it would replace. Notice how the lower drive bays are pushed back toward the motherboard? That's the same problem I'm facing now.

I put an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB that has the sata ports pointing to the side in that case so unless your board is not a standard ATX it should work.

what you see are drive caddies that comes out towards you with the side off, not like the 900 where the connectors are facing the board. in this case, the drive connectors are facing away from you when you are facing the motherboard. they are turned 90 degrees from what the 900 is. It's the same orientation as that Lian Li case Slugbait linked to.

review:
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/cooler_master_cm690ii_advanced/3.htm
 
Last edited:

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,660
2,036
126
In 2007, I was obsessive about resurrecting a 1994 ProLiant-Server case, did some cooling experiments, ducting -- quite a "whole enchilada." I posted pictures and a "journal" of case-mods on this web-site.

I'm not inclined to do that sort of sheet-metal work soon again, although it was fun.

Focusing on high airflow, low-noise and the ability to direct and control air-flow from intake to exhaust, I've looked at several cases but bought only two since then: The CoolerMaster Stacker (the later model with the plastic frame in the sidepanel to mount as many as four 140mm fans), and the HAF (full-tower and 922 mid-tower.)

Although not the cheapest recommended here, and not a more expensive aluminum case, the HAF model line has a lot going for it. the 922 comes with two 200mm x 30mm fans, spinning at only 700rpm but moving between 75 and 90 CFM each (if I recall). Cases like the Stacker and the HAF are very well-vented, offering a chance to actually cover some vent-holes with carefully-cut black (paintable) foam-art board. For instance, you can move the 200mm fan mounted on the top of the HAF 922 as shipped, and put it on the left side-panel (which is vented). There's also a bottom vent for a 140mm intake fan. It seems to do pretty well, with the front, side and bottom fans as intake, you can push a lot of air through your heatpipe cooler to exhaust through the only exhaust port at the rear (besides the venting provided by the PSU with the fan-side face up.)

EDIT: [following day]: One more point about the HAF models or some of the less expensive steel cases. The Aluminum $300 art-masterpieces often come with small caster wheels -- some of which have locks. Well, for what you pay, they're still disappointing for what you COULD have!! They're usually 1" casters, which don't navigate your carpet pile very well.

Run a web-search for place in Ohio or Indiana (can't quite remember) named "Lawless Hardware." You can get 2", 2.5", 3" or larger double-wheeled plastic casters for maybe $10 or so -- set of four -- with thumb-locks. Some of these have the square flat metal plate with four holes.

If you look at the bottom of some of these cases, there are four rubber or plastic feet, often affixed with the standard 6-32 computer screws. Buy a hand screw-tap and matching drill kit from Sears -- less than $10, about $5 -- do some very careful measurement of these holes.

Go down to your metal supply store, and buy two pieces of 1/4" x 2.5" x 12" aluminum bar, or have them pre-cut to the width of your case-bottom chassis. Do the measuring; drill holes for the 6-32 screws using the next or second-higher drill-bit size (you won't thread the bars, and the threads are already tapped in the case). carefully measure, mark and drill the four holes for each caster-wheel on the ends of the aluminum bars -- using the drill-bit for the 6-32 screw tap. Lubricate the screw-tap; tap the threaded holes; use your regular computer case screws in your "parts-locker-screw-collection" to affix the casters; use slightly longer 6-32 screws for the aluminum bars attached to the holes in the bottom of the case.

You never "modded" the case in a way that can't be returned to its original condition as shipped.

Now that your case-chassis sits 2" off the floor, your bottom-intake fan(s) (if you can install them -- definitely already built into the HAF design, though) -- can work most effectively, with reduced fan-noise.
 
Last edited: