Gigabyte 3D Mercury case with 3D Galaxy watercooling

[GundamF91]

I wasn't going to watercool but then I got the NewEgg blackFriday rebate deal on this thing so I couldn't pass it up for 71 bucks. I got it up and running in 30min and so far it's working out great. I'm wondering if anyone else has this case and any tips on using it. I poured about 1.5 bottles, or 900mL of the included coolant. I got pretty much all of the bubbles out of the tubing, but there's some bubble in the reservior. Does this matter?

It does have some issue as far as I can see. Does anyone get annoyed by the flow indicator (that swirling fan above the fluid level window). It creates a minor but annoying racketing sound as it rotates. Is it just my case, or does the sound also appear in yours? This is most obvious in silent mode where everything's quiet. Once you crank the pump up to normal, it more or less becomes blended in by pump noise.

I poured a bottle and half of the coolant in this. It's about topped off. I still have some bubbles in the reservior (and the flow indicator, which may be contributing to the noise above. How do I get rid of all bubbles?

Also it's not that much more effective than my aircooled CoolerMaster HyperTX2 (which is $0 AR). It's definitely better for load temp, but my overclock stability has not improved much. It could just be the processor though.

 

[CrashX]

I got mine in on Wednesday. I put it all together that night.
I also have some SMALL bubbles in the lines and tank, but I'm not really worried about them, I figured they will work their way out eventually.
The flow indicator is annoying. It looks cool, but is too "rattly". It is by far now the noisiest thing in the system.
I also used about 1.5 bottles.

My BIGGEST complaint is mine has something bad in the power switch. Here's the deal. When the power switch lead is plugged in to the motherboard, the computer turns on, then 5 seconds later turns off. The power switch is stuck on. So it's send a constant closed signal to the board, turning it on, then back off. If I unplug it, and short the power pins manually, it stays on.

So I traced the cable out and found out it passes through the board that controls the pump and monitors the coolant level. I think the board thinks that one of the two is having a problem, either the level is low, or the pump is down, and is sending a power off signal. I unplugged and replugged in EVERYTHING and it didn't make a difference. So I had to hook the reset button in as the power button for now.

I contacted Gigabyte over email, and they responded VERY quickly. I told them my problem, and even pointed out that several customer reviews on Newegg stated the same thing. They replied back and said they would ship me the part. Question is, what are they shipping and will it be the right part? We will see.

But besides that, I love everything about the case. High quality, looks nice, light weight, tons of value and excellent price.

 

[aigomorla]

from my impression, that kit isnt very good.

You need to bleed all the bubbles, expecially in the blocks. The reason is if a bubble gets stuck inside your block or rad, the cooling is greatly hindered. Your transfering heat from metal air water, which isnt very good compared to metal water.

The easiest way to get rid of the bubbles is pinch the tubing and release. I hope you fully bleed the system b4 you went live.


Lastly, it not being that much greater then your past air setup, leads me to believe its a low tier watersetup. Low tier usually matches air, but once you goto medium tier, you greatly destory air.