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GF's 1995 Ford Taurus headlights stopped working...

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arcas

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Headlights (normal and high beams) no longer work. The headlight dashboard indicator still works. The switch is still able to turn on the parking lights.

My first thought would be the fuse. As I understand, the headlamp fuse is contained within the switch itself. Looks like I'd need to take the dashboard apart to get to the switch. Does the fact that the switch can still turn on the parking lights suggest that this fuse is still intact? Is there a headlamp relay somewhere?

Thanks
 
Before you take anything apart go find a Haynes or Chilton manual. They will tell you where the fuse is and give a step by step set of instructions on how to get to it. They sometimes leave a bit to be desired on the instructions but they are significantly better than diving into this sort of thing blind.

If the fuse is easy to get to I'd do that first. If it's not pull a headlight and go get a cheapo volt meter. Use that to see if power is getting to the bulbs when the switch is on. Then step back through each component in the circuit. Your manual will have a wiring diagram to help you trace everything.

I once lost my headlights on an older jeep. It turned out to be just some corrosion in a connection. A bit of sand paper cleaned it all out and it was back to normal.
 
why would the fuse be in the switch? it's not protecting the circuit if it's not near the power source.

get the owner's manual out and find the fuse locations. headlights are often fused seperately, though, so that may not be your problem.

the relay is probably in the same box with the fuse. put your finger on it and feel if it's clicking when you turn the headlamp switch. if it's not, it's probably either a bad relay or a bad switch.
 
If both low and high beams are not working then it is most likly the headlight switch. If the switch was telling the rest of the car to turn the headlights on the either the high or low would work as they run on a different path, usually.

That and the headlight switch is probable the easiest, cheapest, and most likyl cause to try.
 
Wait, before you take anything apart!

My sister-in-law's truck did this. It wasn't the switch (it is also one of the least likely things to break). In her case, it was the headlight relay under the hood. Solder joint in it broke off after 13 years. Instead of buying a new relay I fixed it for her instead 😛 but it is more likely for the relay to break than the switch, simply because the relay has to handle the higher amounts of current than the switch does.

Easy test for this: Find the relay and remove it. Use a tester and find which pins are hot and which are not (should be one pin hot all the time). Now turn the headlight switch on and test the pins again. You should have 2 hot pins now. If you do, the headlight relay is most likely bad. If you don't, it is either the switch or the wiring in between (more likely the switch).

Better to test stuff first than to go buying parts and hoping that it fixes it.
 
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