Geeky Talkies Build

[JK Saabh]

This post has been deleted. I will be posting progress on: http://geekytalkies.wordpress.com/

 

[JK Saabh]

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[fralexandr]

:thumbsup:

things that might help:
you can buy some sound permeable projection screens so the center speaker can go behind the screen.
It should help with positioning the TV, since you'll have a TV mounted behind the screen, and you probably want the center close to the TV (above or below) and the TV at a passable viewing height.
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/topic/325206-mount-center-channel-above-or-below-projector-screen/

If the center channel is placed too far up or down, it might sound a bit off.
I have a center speaker that isn't even hooked up, since it sounds too weird having dialogue coming from too far below ear level (polk monitor 60 L/R; CS2 Center).
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1997039

comparison of sound permeable/acoustically transparent screens
http://www.accucalhd.com/documents/accucal_front_projection_screen_report.pdf
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1475648-best-screen-my-application.html

If mounting the center behind the screen, you might want to consider going with front speakers that offer an in-wall center if you want the projection screen to be closer to the wall, since a lot of center channels jut out a bit.
That might not matter depending on what TV you're mounting, what wall mount, and what speakers you're buying though.

 

[sania250]

Can I build it?

 

[JK Saabh]

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[JK Saabh]

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[JK Saabh]

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[westom]

So I spent some time designing how I want to do my electric pre-wiring. My media center will not be in the home theater, rather be under the stairs. Originally, I was planning of using a power conditioner in the media center. However, on doing some research I read about how it makes more sense to use an Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) instead.

Your concerns without learning why they are concerns make them bogus.

For example, why does a projector lamp that is off and cooler need a fan to make it more cooler? Because a hot lamp can be damaged by vibration. Cool the lamp in a second so that moving does not damage the lamp. If a projector is not moved, then no fan and a longer cooling time has no adverse effects.

Same with your UPS reasoning. You ignored the numbers. A UPS claims to absorb hundreds of joules. Destructive surges are hundreds of thousands of joules. That near zero UPS protection will do what? Virtually nothing. Numbers were ignored to assume 100% protection. Again, learn reasons behind each solution rather than use advertising soundbytes as knowledge.

Which electrical anomaly concerns you? Open neutral, high voltage, EMI/EMC, reverse polatity, noise, current spikes, floating ground, blackout, surge, ground loops, brownout, etc. Completely different solutions are required for each. No magic device that 'cleans' all anomalies. If surges are a concern, then best protection at electronics is already inside electronics. Your concern is an anomaly that can overwhelm that existing protection. That solution must be elsewhere at the service entrance. And connected low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to single point earth ground. Increasing distance between electronics and that solution increases protection.

UPS has one primary function. Temporary and 'dirty' power so that data is not lost (ie so that a movie can continue uninterrupted). It does nothing for hardware protection. Read its spec numbers. Its hundreds of joules will absorb a surge that is hundreds of thousands of joules? Yes - when reasoning subjectively. No - when reasoning with perspective (ie numbers).

Which anomaly concerns you? Then a solution for each anomaly can be considered. Best power conditioning and surge protection at eledtronics is already inside electronics. They simply forget to mention that when hyping a high profit and miracle solution UPS. First define the problem. Best protection from surge is something completely different that costs about $1 per protected appliance.

 

[Anubis]

if your worried about massive power spikes just get a whole house surge protector, it basically goes in the breaker box and protects everything,

if you want secondary protection any decent power strip will work, or you can spend money on a panamax or whatever if it makes you feel better

 

[JK Saabh]

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[JK Saabh]

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[westom]

I should have mentioned this in my previous post, the CP1000PFCLCD protects my gear up to 1030 Joules. In your opinion, do you think it's enough?

First off, those concerns are bogus. Those concerns are not you. You are not the topic of conditioning. Please do not associate yourself as part of the topic.

Second, 1030 joules will do what with a surge that is hundreds of thousands of joules? Stated previously, near zero protection. But just enough above zero so that advertising can claim 100% protection. That protection is a bogus and quite popular belief often generated by hearsay. Assumptions made without perspective (numbers) are often bogus.

1030 joules means it absorbs 345 and never more than 690 joules. Your electronics may absorb that near zero energy; even convert it to DC electricity to power its semiconductors. A completely different solution (again, that costs about $1 per protected appliance) means hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate elsewhere. So that superior protection already inside electronics is not overwhelmed.

Did you know your cable, satellite dish, and telephone must already have that solution (often installed for free) according to codes and regulations? AC electric does not.

Third, output from this 120 volt sine wave UPS in battery backup mode is 200 volt square waves with a spike of up to 270 volts. Perfectly good power for all electronics. Again, because electronics are so robust. Why does your power need conditioning? A fear of 'dirty' power was hyped without numbers? Do you really need to clean (condition) power? Or has fear created an obscenely profitable marketplace?

UPS has one purpose. Temporary and 'dirty' power during a blackout. So that data (ie a movie) is not lost. UPS does not do hardware protection - as stated previously. Do you need protection from a blackout? If not, consider other conditioners.

Nothing 'conditions' all types of anomalies. Are you worried about brownouts, high voltage, reverse polariity, blackout, massive current spikes. floating ground, open neutral, etc? Even a solution for noise (ie a series mode filter) is completely different from conditioning for surges. Conditioning is a subjective term that successfully gets consumers to spend massively on unnecessary boxes.

Fourth, most everyone should have effective surge protection because it is so inexpensive (ie $1 per protected appliance) and because destructive surges might occur once every seven years (a number that can vary significantly even in the same town). If your entertainment system needs surge protection, then so does every bathroom GFCI, dishwaser, all clocks, CFL bulbs, telephone equipment, furnace, and the refrigerator. What most needs protection during a surge? Smoke detectors. That is one power conditioner everyone should consider.

 

[JK Saabh]

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