Garage Door Opener

[KK]

Also you may wanna post this in the garage forum.

 

[Squisher]

I'm not clear on this.

OP, do you see an antenna wire hanging out of the opener?


I have two Chamberlains (same as liftmaster) and they both have a short dangling antenna wire.

 

[cjchaps]

I had similar issues with my garage door opener. You had to press them a few times before they would work and it was annoying. bought new remotes and changed batteries and none of that fixed it. I ended buying some of this companies stuff from ebay: http://www.skylinkhomesecurity.com/


I bought their wireless garage door keypad opener(
Ebay Link ). It comes with a little button box you attach to your inside manual garage door button and a wireless keypad. I got mine on ebay for under $20. After I got that home and got the wireless keypad working I bought some of their remote units (SkyLink Keyless Entry Garage Door Opener Keychain G6M) and now we use those in our car and they work perfectly every time.

It's not the best solution but it works without having to replace your entire garage door opener and now I have a keypad to open the garage as well.

 

[Synomenon]

Our garage door opener came with a wall-mountable keypad as well. It's mounted to the wall outside right next to the garage door. It has the number pad that you use to enter the code to open the door. That one works flawlessly. I wish these remotes worked as well.

 

[cjchaps]

Originally posted by: IsLNdbOi
Our garage door opener came with a wall-mountable keypad as well. It's mounted to the wall outside right next to the garage door. It has the number pad that you use to enter the code to open the door. That one works flawlessly. I wish these remotes worked as well.

You could probably just buy the skylink receiver and remote controls then. It's a tiny little box that hooks up to your current box, and then the remotes look like regular remotes. It would probably cost you $30 or so total? You would probably want to call up Skylink and make sure the remotes are compatible with your system though if you go that route.

 

[Synomenon]

I'll have to look into those. Thanks for the suggestions so far people.

 

[Sea Moose]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: Modelworks
Keep the wire you add short, longer does not mean better.

It can have slightly higher gain with more but the resonance will probably be out of range for that trimmer.

Wifi usually doesn't mess with stuff near 54 centimeters however compact FL lamps (cheap ones especially) as well as switching wall warts certainly can muck things up then the signals are weaker.

hot

 

[Synomenon]

Well I'm going to end up buying a new remote just to see if it works better.

The suggestion above though to hard-wire the thing to my car (even though it was a joke) interested me.


Took the PCB out again and got a closer look. I'm going to try hard wiring it and installing it somewhere in my door panel (probably next to the power window and door locks / switches).

I'm going to use this momentary switch: http://www.performance-pcs.com...info&products_id=23263

The power door locks / switches in my car are black and have orange / amber lighting so this momentary switch would match. I found the spots I could solder this switch to on the PCB.

Then I'll use this to convert my car's 12V line to 3V: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/AnyVoltMicro.htm

I also found the spots on the PCB I could solder this to (so I can dump the 3V lithium battery). I have a question about connecting everything though. The LED in the momentary switch is 3V. The garage door opener remote is also 3V. Can I simply connect a 12V wire from my car to the Vin of the converter, set the converter to 3V then connect BOTH the LED in the switch AND the garage door opener remote to the Vout of the converter?

 

[BoomerD]

Depending on your car, you MAY be able to buy the Homelink system from the dealer (or maybe on ebay) and do a professional install instead of trying to jerry-rig a remote...

http://www.homelink.com/home/home.taf