Garage door opener - can this be repaired?

[radhak]

My garage door opener stopped working yesterday, and after I slapped it around (put on manual mode by pulling that cord, opened it couple of times, etc), it works now. But it loud noises and grating sound etc.

Reason could be this bent central railing or the frayed belt :

So the question is - can this be repaired, or should I get a new one?

I'm thinking replacing with a similar craftsman 1/2 HP unit would help me replace just some parts of it and not have to worry about replacing the whole shebang (the motion detectors on the door sides, the roller on the top, etc). Of course, not sure if this central railing comes with every new unit.

While at that, this 1/2 HP has served for the two-car door for 7 years, so no reason to want a 3/4 HP one....right?

Thread closed on account of spammer.

Zenmervolt - AnandTech Moderator

 

[Zenmervolt]

No reason to go for more power, but I'd get something a little better than a belt-drive unit. Belt drives got popular because they're quiet, but they're absolute shit for reliability. Nothing beats a good screw-drive opener for rock solid reliability. The one at my parents' house is over 30 years old and still working perfectly.

All that aside, the belt on yours is clearly destroyed and needs to be replaced at the bare minimum. The question is why the belt shredded itself like that. If the door itself is sticking or if the assist springs are broken and putting more strain on the opener, then you need to fix that first or the next opener will just have problems too. From the looks of things the central track is where the binding is happening though, and that needs to be fixed as well.

You might be able to order just the track and the belt from Sears directly if you have the model number, so I'd try that.

A new opener should come with the central track, but the "roller" (actually the assist spring for the door) is part of the door, not the opener, and would not come with a new opener.

ZV

 

[WilliamM2]

Buying just the track and belt will probably cost more than a new opener when they are on sale. I would skip the belt drive on the new one.

I know many folks with 20 year old 1/2 hp Craftsman (Chamberlain) chain drive openers that still work fine. I have a 6 year old one myself on a much heavier dual wall insulated 2 car door. No need for more power, with the spring adjusted correctly I can open the door without the opener, using just two fingers.

 

[radhak]

An update.

Thanks guys - you were both right in all that you said - the motor works but the belt is gone, and the reason could be that bent-out-of-shape rails. But just the belt will cost me $100, so I might as well get a whole new unit for $150! Pity, seeing that the rest of my unit is still functioning, and now I'll need to trash it.

I'll check if I can replace with a screw-type without changing too much of the existing setup.

 

[cardiac]

An update.

Thanks guys - you were both right in all that you said - the motor works but the belt is gone, and the reason could be that bent-out-of-shape rails. But just the belt will cost me $100, so I might as well get a whole new unit for $150! Pity, seeing that the rest of my unit is still functioning, and now I'll need to trash it.

I'll check if I can replace with a screw-type without changing too much of the existing setup.

Throw it on craigslist for $50. Someone might need the power unit...

 

[KK]

Throw it on craigslist for $50. Someone might need the power unit...

Or get one similar and use one of them for parts.

 

[olds]

What bent up the track?

 

[cardiac]

Find the stuff you need on craigslist, as KK said.

Crapload of them in Miami:

http://miami.craigslist.org/search/...query=craftsman+garage+door+opener&catAbb=sss

 

[T2urtle]

An update.

Thanks guys - you were both right in all that you said - the motor works but the belt is gone, and the reason could be that bent-out-of-shape rails. But just the belt will cost me $100, so I might as well get a whole new unit for $150! Pity, seeing that the rest of my unit is still functioning, and now I'll need to trash it.

I'll check if I can replace with a screw-type without changing too much of the existing setup.

I did the same thing but I had a older unit with a plastic gear that drives it. It was a cheap part but at the time they had a similiar model for $75. So i picked that up. I just dumped the old one.

 

[radhak]

Thanks - Yes, I'm pursuing the ebay/CL option first - hopefully I'll find one that gives me the part(s) I need.

What bent up the track?

Good question - I'm guessing it happened when the huge trash can (provided by the city) got in the way of the closing door; happened only twice, but I can't think of anything else could have caused it. And most probably, the extensive damage to the belt is due to this bend in the rail - because of which the belt was passing thru the trolley in places and maybe chafing it beyond help.

Hopefully a new piece (or new belt/rail) will allay all those issues.

 

[EagleKeeper]

If you have to replace a bent rail, consider a pro. Depending the location of rail; you could be looking at the tension springs need to come off, the door supported on side where the rail is being replaced, swapping out rail, resetting door and attaching springs.

If at the bend or overhead, the tension springs may not need to be unloaded. At the bend, the door will need support when the rail is removed.

 

[Zenmervolt]

If you have to replace a bent rail, consider a pro. Depending the location of rail; you could be looking at the tension springs need to come off, the door supported on side where the rail is being replaced, swapping out rail, resetting door and attaching springs.

If at the bend or overhead, the tension springs may not need to be unloaded. At the bend, the door will need support when the rail is removed.

He's talking about a bend in the track that the lift attachment rides on, not the tracks for the door. You can see what he means in the photos attached to the first post.

ZV