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Game freezes on new pc :(

K

kronnyq

Member
I am at wit's end here. I cannot narrow down what is causing game freeze problem.

I have:

Gigabyte P35-DS3L Rev 2.0 motherboard
Intel C2D e8400
MSI 8800GTS OC 512MB
4GB G.skill DDR2-1000
Acer 22" Widscreen LCD
74GB Raptor
600GB SATA
PC Power 610Watt PSU
Realtek Onboard sound


Problems with games:

WoW freezes up running at max res 1680x1050 w/ Vsync off
World in Conflict freezes at any res w/ Vsync on or off
Witcher freezes running at max res 1680x1050 didn't try Vsync

However, Crysis, COD4 and TF2 have seemed to be running fine. I run Crysis and COD @ 1280x1024 and TF2 at 1680x1050 no vsync.

So I figured it must be the OCing causing the problems. Dropped CPU down from 9x420 3.78Ghz 840Mhz memory to stock speed 3Ghz 9x333 memory @ 800Mhz, but left Vcore at 1.375. Made it through first World of Conflict mission then froze after I completed it. Can't be a temperature issue because Speedfan reported a max load temp of 51C on the cores when overclocked.

So guess what, its not the OC, its obviously something else! I was almost certain it was the PSU I was previously using which was a Thermaltake 500watt, which was really pushing it with my system since I have a GTS and 3x case fans, 2 of those 250mm. I just got my 610watt PSU today, and that didn't solve the freezing issues.

Read that Realtek onboard sound isn't liked by a lot of motherboards, so I removed driver, downloaded Microsoft UAA audio bus driver, installed that, reinstalled Realtek audio driver....no dice!

Now the only thing I have left to pinpoint is my memory. Memory still fails second test in Memtest86 immediately even after RMAing. I have the memory set to exact specifications as posted on G.skill website for my motherboard.

Last time I had a freezing issue on an older PC, found out memory was bad, RMA'd to Corsair, problem fixed.

Should I just accept the fact that Newegg got an entire bad case of G.skill memory, get rid of it and switch to a different brand?

:|:|:|



 
Your PC doesn't even use all of a 500W PSU, I wouldn't have said it was that.

Post temps too, just in case, but failing memtest immediately is pretty much a huge warning sign. I mean, your screen does turn bright red after all. Just RMA your memory back to newegg and get some new stuff. They probably didn't get a whole bad shipment, and I don't think it's right to shit on an entire brand because of one anecdotal bad experience.
 
Temp screenshot

True, its not right to shit on an entire brand from one experience, BUT this is my second experience. As I said above I RMA refunded the first batch to Newegg and bought the same exact stuff again, and got same exact errors in Memtest, even testing sticks 1 at a time.

If the memory aint busted my motherboard just must not like it. I don't get it though G.skill said it tested with this motherboard fine.

I seriously might just have to ditch it and grab some OCZ.
 
Either way, replace your memory.

You mention in the OP you're running now at stock speeds; you say 333FSB and 800MHz memory? Have you manually set a memory ratio differently or is it not at 667?

Edit: double post, kinda, sorry.
 
Originally posted by: kronnyq
Temp screenshot

True, its not right to shit on an entire brand from one experience, BUT this is my second experience. As I said above I RMA refunded the first batch to Newegg and bought the same exact stuff again, and got same exact errors in Memtest, even testing sticks 1 at a time.

If the memory aint busted my motherboard just must not like it. I don't get it though G.skill said it tested with this motherboard fine.

I seriously might just have to ditch it and grab some OCZ.
Click to expand...

If those voltages are right they are WAY off
 
Welp I'm now at 425x9 3.82Ghz without any problems, memory @ 850Mhz. I uninstalled Nvidia driver and installed new one, and also got a no-cd crack for World in Conflict, and now its not crashing anymore, however I am sticking to Vsync on still in all games. When it was at stock 333fsb and 2.4 memory multiplier.

Whats wrong with my voltages RadiclDreamer?
 
Look @ your 12v they are hugely off as is your -5v. They should never deviate more than +/- 10% of the nominal value. It could be a bum reading, checking the bios is sometimes more accurate but a multimeter would be your best shot
 
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