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Fun with Auto Repair - Chiltons sucks

T

tcsenter

Lifer
I suppose I should not be so harsh on Chiltons. I've been using their repair manuals for years and this is the first "major" error I've encountered. They have bailed me out of trouble more times than I can count. Sh-t happens....

My mother needed the starter replaced on her 1997 Chrysler Caravan, and she has needed a tune-up for several months now, so I figger we should just get it all done at once. Yesterday, we (my brother and I) did:

- Plugs
- Plug Wires
- Fuel Filter
- Upper + lower O2 Sensors
- Thermostat and new hoses
- Coolant system flush
- Oil, filter, lube
- Rotate tires
- Replace Starter

It all goes rather well really, until we consult Chiltons Repair Manual #20302 (Sections 1-23 and 4-10) about the approach to access the firewall-side plugs (3.3L V6), wires, and upper O2 sensor. Chiltons expressly states these parts can be accessed "from the top" by removing the entire windshield wiper and motor assembly (with cowl).

Not only did this procedure turn out to be a major P-I-T-A, but after we get the wiper assembly and cowl removed, expecting there to be some miraculous opening as they depict in the photograph, there was no better access to these parts than with it on! WTF?

I called the Service Department at the nearest Chrysler dealer, explained what we were attempting to get at, and how Chiltons advised to get at it. The Service Manager's response was "Oh wow....oh man. The only access to those parts from the top would be to remove the alternator, alternator mounting hardware, and possibly the fuel injection intake. We get those parts from under the vehicle."

WHA? 😕

So my brother crawls under and looks around - BINGO! There are four bolts connecting the catalytic converter to the rear exhaust manifold, disconnect the bolts and drop the converter about three inches. All three plugs and the upper O2 sensor were accessible, not without a little arm and wrist contortion, but definitely accessible. DAMNIT!

The wiper assembly and cowl went-on about as 'easily' as it came-off. Auto Repair rocks! :Q

Ah well, Mum is happy and that's what counts.
 
I hope you got 100,000 mile plugs 🙂

Try changing them on a Northstar FWD caddy.
 
I recommend haynes, chiltons and the factory manuals....each seems to have something the other doesn't. The haynes and chiltons have the benefit of 'live' pictures whereas most factory books show nicely drawn diagrams.

I have found even factory manuals with not so much as errors necessarily, but with explainations and guidlines that are just the long way around the problem.

I hope you used anti-sieze and any types of thread coatings that were recommended on the O2's and plugs. Those O2's sometimes can be a PITA to get out, I broke one of those split sockets on one....luckily the second one worked. That always a scary situation like the 8hours plus it took to get 8-10 easily accessable 10mm bolts out that held on my ac compressor. Each one had 'fused' with the block, the heads just rounded right off....6 point or 12 point made no difference, slotted one of the heads and it broke the big flat blade on my large screwdriver and I twisted another one....finally I took it to a shop as it was just a headache (I spent about 2hours on 1 bolt and the 2nd one started doing the same thing)....the mechanic sort of gave me one of those looks and told me 30mins.

I was there until 5pm, I got there around 10am....he told me 30mins but asked if an hour would be ok....so I said I'd give him more but he wouldn't take it saying part of his job is estimating properly. He put in 12mm headed bolts of a higher grade.

Å
 
Originally posted by: Evadman
I hope you got 100,000 mile plugs 🙂
Click to expand...
We used Autolite Platinum plugs and a Bosch Premium 7mm wire set. The factory plugs were still in there (Minivan was bought used with 70K miles), looked pretty rough when they came out. heh

Changing them again won't be so difficult, now that we know how to get to them (i.e. not the way Chiltons says). DOH!
Try changing them on a Northstar FWD caddy.
Click to expand...
Oh god, I don't even want to know.
 
I hope you used anti-sieze and any types of thread coatings that were recommended on the O2's and plugs. Those O2's sometimes can be a PITA to get out, I broke one of those split sockets on one....luckily the second one worked.
Click to expand...
The O2 sensors pretty much all come with anti-seize on the threads. The last several I've bought did, anyway.

The auto parts store loaned us an O2 sensor socket kit. The sensor broke loose rather easily compared with some I've busted my knuckles on. The torque rating is only 20ft-lbs so it shouldn't be like a head bolt.
 
Man, the automotive world is just going to hell when you have to drop the cat just to get at the plugs 🙁 In my 56 Ford F 100 that I used to have years ago I could have stood between the engine and the radiator. Dodge/Chrysler does seem to be the worst about leaving you absolutely zero room to work though.
 
Originally posted by: flxnimprtmscl
Man, the automotive world is just going to hell when you have to drop the cat just to get at the plugs 🙁 In my 56 Ford F 100 that I used to have years ago I could have stood between the engine and the radiator. Dodge/Chrysler does seem to be the worst about leaving you absolutely zero room to work though.
Click to expand...

Since at least the 60's there have been cars that have required sometimes major shenanigans to get to plugs, headers, distributors, etc....sometimes it makes you wonder what 'engineering' means.

Å
 
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