Okay, I'm going to start crunching some numbers for you to see how this all works out with your budget. I fully believe you can do both if you're smart about where you spend your money.
First off, the difference between the performance of a 4770K @ 4.4 vs. 4.2 is nearly nonexistent. I understand the fun factor, but OC is not guaranteed, and the way the things run, WC is usually not worth the price and hassle on chips that have less than optimal IHS/TIM situations like Ivy and Haswell (eg; the actual heat problems can't be solved no matter how good the cooling is on the surface of the IHS, because the chip is having trouble conducting heat from the die through the poor quality TIM into the IHS for dissipation). There's some absolutely stellar work done by Idontcare (a legendary member here) that shows the potential for huge HUGE improvements by delidding examples with bad IHS (concave/convex IHS are also an issue even on older procs with soldered IHS).
So here is a rundown on the variables that can be at play overclocking an Ivy or Haswell that are difficult to really run down. Let's call this the 'lottery card', where you have to pull a good number in every category to hit your target OC :
--------------- SECTION ON VARIATIONS IN CPU QUALITY -----------------
(1)- Quality of the die (this goes for all chips of course)
(2)- Quality of the TIM (this varies pretty solidly from example to example)
(3)- Quality of the IHS (bad IHS that are not flat enough can be buffed flatter at the expense of warranty, this is known as lapping)
Now Sandy Bridge is too old to consider for a new build at this time, but they were the last mainstream CPU from Intel to use solder to attach and conduct heat from the bare die into the IHS. So basically you have a triple lottery with Ivy and Haswell, and only a double lottery from the older Core CPUs. It's frustrating because unless you got a really bum Sandy (super rare), even a bad IHS could be buffed out pretty quickly, and it responded REALLY well to extreme cooling. With Ivy/Haswell, you can get very frustrating examples that even with a perfectly lapped IHS, perfectly applied thermal compound, and ludicrous cooling will still OC poorly due to a bad TIM lottery draw.
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Okay, I said all of that to make the point that there are of course no guarantees that every 4770K will hit 4.4 regardless of anything you try (perhaps short of delidding). It's not a crazy target by any stretch, but certainly not one that requires a really expensive motherboard, nor the hassles of watercooling. Because Ivy and Haswell are so power efficient, and do SO much on the CPU instead of motherboard logic circuitry, the difference between an $80 and $400 motherboard really comes down to what actual FEATURES you need, rather than anything at all to do with performance beyond optimistically 1-2%. I've had 3770K and 4770K chips that would run happily at 4.6+ on cheap boards, and similarly some duds that wouldn't crack 4.2 on massively expensive boards.
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Your current build spec priced out at newegg (don't necessarily use a single vendor for everything, I just want to show how you can save a ton, and still get top tier performance, which will open the possibility further for you to get BOTH an awesome desktop AND a decent laptop)
4770K $335
Corsair H80 $90
Maximus Formula Z97 $370
3GB 780ti $560 AR
8GB 2133 Ram $80
840 Evo 500GB $250
2TB Seagate HDD $85
RM850 PSU $130AR
$1900
Now, drop the WC due to it being unneccesary, go to a sane mobo that can still perfectly run dual GPU should you later want to, improve the memory, and let's get a better deal on a PSU (if you aren't planning on dual GPU for a while yet).
4770K $335
CM 212 Evo $30AR
AsRock Z97 Extreme3 $120
4GB MSI Gaming R290X $520AR (or the 3GB 780ti as above for $560)
8GB Gskill Trident DDR3-2400 $90
840 Evo 500GB $250
2TB Seagate HDD $85
Antec TP650C 80 Gold PSU $65AR
$1495 - $1535, or a savings of about $400. I can guarantee based on my personal experience that that build will be quiet, will OC nearly identically, and the PSU is more than up to the task given to it there. $400 alone can buy a nice laptop for non gaming purposes. When traveling, I like to keep to devices that I'm not going to be heartbroken if they get dropped, lost, broken, or stolen. My only advice is to buy a cheapish SSD (250GB Evo maybe) and stick it in whatever you buy for an immense performance boost and you get a less fragile unit as a result. If you bang a laptop suddenly that has a mechanical drive, you are more prone to losing the drive or some data on it. With the SSD, it's unlikely that would be the case (though of course the laptop can become damaged in other ways from impacts).
I like expensive motherboards, I like overkill power supplies, all of that stuff is great. But if you want to get both a killer PC and a decent travel laptop (that can still even do light gaming and be speedy with an SSD), then it's worth dropping the stuff that doesn't really do you any good. An H80 isn't going to take a 4770 much if anything beyond what a properly installed 212 Evo can do. A nearly $400 maximus isn't going to overclock that any better either than a $120 AsRock. And why spend $120+ on a PSU for a single GPU system? Etc.
Just think about it.
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