Front brake/rotor change "Walk through" needed :)

[dabuddha]

Need to replace my front pads and rotors and was hoping there might be a car repair website out there. Worse comes to worse, I'll grab a Haynes Manual for my car but I'm hoping there might be something online. I've tried google searching for half an hour but haven't had any luck.

TIA!

EDIT:

few pics my wife took of one of the rotors before I put the wheel back on

http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic1.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic2.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic3.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic4.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic5.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic6.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic7.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic8.jpg
http://www.sanika.net/brakes/pic9.jpg


EDIT2: Just so I don't leave the millions of people hanging, I ended up getting my front two brakes, rotors and cv joints replaced for $210 labor. Parts were $26 for the brake pads, $25 for each rotor, and $75 for each CV joint.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Is the hub in front of the rotor on your car? If it is, have a shop do it, unless you have lots of experience or just really want to do it

Go search around on the accordtuner.com forums and look for other forums for your car's gen

 

[Colt45]

re move wheel
remove caliper
remove carrier
remove & replace rotor
replace carrier
push piston on caliper in with clamp, put pads in caliper, replace caliper
replace wheel

 

[thomsbrain]

mmm, my mechanic was saying that at least for 4th gen accords, you practically have to remove the entire axle to get the rotors off. they changed the design later on to make them easier to swap, but i don't know when.

 

[wischeez]

Look to see if the rotor on that one will just "fall off" when you pull the caliper and mount loose. If it does not, you are better off having a mechanic do it as the rotors will have to be pulled off with a slide hammer. Can you see bolts coming through from the back side of the rotor?(you will see the ends of the bolts on the outside)If so, see above.

 

[NutBucket]

Sorry, your car doesn't have a rotor-over hub setup. Basically the hub is bolted to the rotor and many times you need a press to seperate them. I've heard of techniques involving hammers/mallets but thore aren't a sure thing. The worse that can happen is that you won't be able to seperate the two and you'll have to take the knuckles to a shop and have them press 'em out. Still much cheaper then having them do the whole job.

 

[GroundZero]

call junkyard
have wrecker pick up car
have junkyard crush car for pot-metal to sell back to japan
go get a real car

problem solved

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: GroundZero
call junkyard
have wrecker pick up car
have junkyard crush car for pot-metal to sell back to japan
go get a real car

problem solved

:roll:

 

[dabuddha]

Originally posted by: GroundZero
call junkyard
have wrecker pick up car
have junkyard crush car for pot-metal to sell back to japan
go get a real car

problem solved

Not a viable solution because I don't have loads of money laying around like you


Thanks for all of the information guys!

 

[dabuddha]

Updated with few pictures.

 

[TechnoKid]

Your gonna need a ball joint seperator, and socket to take off the axle nut. What you're gonna need to do is to take out the axle from the hub, then take out the whol steering knuckle so you can unbolt the wheel bearing/hub from the spindle. After you get the hub out, you can then unbolt the rotor from the hub.


Illustration #1
Illustration #2


Also looks like your cv boot is torn. Youre gonna need to fix that too. If the joint isn't making any noise, clean and redo the boot. If not, may be easier to just replace the whole axle.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Colt45
re move wheel
remove caliper
remove carrier
remove & replace rotor
replace carrier
push piston on caliper in with clamp, put pads in caliper, replace caliper
replace wheel

Well, you left out a few important details but that's basically it in a nutshell.

Go buy the Haynes manual. It isn't difficult to replace rotors or do a brake job. You should have them turned even if they are new to make sure they are not out of round or warped.

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Colt45
re move wheel
remove caliper
remove carrier
remove & replace rotor
replace carrier
push piston on caliper in with clamp, put pads in caliper, replace caliper
replace wheel

Well, you left out a few important details but that's basically it in a nutshell.

Go buy the Haynes manual. It isn't difficult to replace rotors or do a brake job. You should have them turned even if they are new to make sure they are not out of round or warped.

It is a bitch-anda-half to replace rotors on honda accords, see my post above and the pics to see why. I wish it were as easy as just removing the caliper carrier, but its not. Why honda had to change the "generallyexpected" way on the accords is beyond me.

Get some new Brembo Blank rotors and be done with it, they are pretty cheap at http://www.importrp.com

 

[NutBucket]

On the bright side you can convert the setup to rotor over hub quite easily; only problem is the cost of one of the parts went through the roof:|

 

[dabuddha]

Originally posted by: TechnoKid

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Colt45
re move wheel
remove caliper
remove carrier
remove & replace rotor
replace carrier
push piston on caliper in with clamp, put pads in caliper, replace caliper
replace wheel

Well, you left out a few important details but that's basically it in a nutshell.

Go buy the Haynes manual. It isn't difficult to replace rotors or do a brake job. You should have them turned even if they are new to make sure they are not out of round or warped.

It is a bitch-anda-half to replace rotors on honda accords, see my post above and the pics to see why. I wish it were as easy as just removing the caliper carrier, but its not. Why honda had to change the "generallyexpected" way on the accords is beyond me.

Get some new Brembo Blank rotors and be done with it, they are pretty cheap at http://www.importrp.com

I don't know which brand I got but I got 2 of them from Advanced Auto Parts for $24.88 each. I think they were called Wearever

 

[ScoobMaster]

You may want to follow the advice given for a trip to the mechanic. I noticed in the last pic that your CV joint boot is split wide open and has been letting the grease out (and contaminants in). You are going to need a new CV joint there very soon (if not already). I thought something was leaking after looking at pic1 (looked greasy and "wet" in the wheel well), but pic9 clearly shows the problem.

 

[AnyMal]

Originally posted by: GroundZero
call junkyard
have wrecker pick up car
have junkyard crush car for pot-metal to sell back to japan
go get a real car

problem solved

Define a real car please. Like piece of sh!t Ford or GM car?

 

[imported_cello]

Get a factory shop manual for the last word on vehicle service..then check the net for "service bulletins" issued from the factory. With all that in hand decide if you really want to do it.

 

[kosstamogen]

You may want to follow the advice given for a trip to the mechanic. I noticed in the last pic that your CV joint boot is split wide open and has been letting the grease out (and contaminants in). You are going to need a new CV joint there very soon (if not already). I thought something was leaking after looking at pic1 (looked greasy and "wet" in the wheel well), but pic9 clearly shows the problem.

That guy is absolutely right, your car looks just like mine before i changed my cv boots, had all the grease all over the place.

I have actually spent the time to change my rotors on my 94 honda accord lx and it was pretty easy except for two things. First, the central hub nut is REALLY tight, if you don't have an impact wrench it's going to take you like 5ft of breaking bar to unscrew it yourself if it was installed to the factory spec of 180 ft-lbs. 2nd on my accord it was easy but on my friends car it was hard to pop the joint out of the arm, sorry don't know the exact term, but it's the screw directly behind the rotor at the bottom facing the ground (that has a cotto pin or something) The book says to use a puller but it can be a bitch either way. On my car i just used a jack to push up and it popped up real easy, but we tried that method on my friends accord and it didn't work so we gave up. Then it was easy to just pull the axle through the middle of the rotor and u unscrew the 4 nuts like that one guy posted a picture of. The 2nd time i did it I had an impact wrench and it was a lot easier. A guy above mentions that you have to press out the bearings which is true if you just remove the bearings from the hub, but to replace the rotors only, you only need to unscrew the 4 front bolts to remove the hub from bare rotor. Let me know if you want more details.

 

[IHateMyJob2004]

Buy the haynes manual for your car. $10. All quaestions are answered there with pictures.

 

[NutBucket]

You don't need to press the bearings out but most of the time its nearly impossible to seperate the rotor from the hub without a press.

 

[dabuddha]

Originally posted by: IHateMyJob2004
Buy the haynes manual for your car. $10. All quaestions are answered there with pictures.

I'm looking at it now and I'm just trying to get a step by step procedure typed out before I attempt to see if it's something I can do. Only problems I really have are:

A) It's my only car so if I screw it up, I'll be in a little trouble
B) I have no family/friends local (most of my friends live in Maryland, I live in Virginia) so I don't really have a good backup plan "just in case"

 

[NutBucket]

backup plan = tow truck

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: NutBucket
You don't need to press the bearings out but most of the time its nearly impossible to seperate the rotor from the hub without a press.

The rotors on the accords are bolted onto the bearing/hub, nor pressed onto/into them. Unlike many other hondas, the hub unit is not pressed onto the knuckle; the bearing is pressed into the hub, and the hub is bolted onto the knucke. The rotor is bolted onto the hub. See my previous post for a pictorial account of this.

 

[jagec]

Originally posted by: ScoobMaster
You may want to follow the advice given for a trip to the mechanic. I noticed in the last pic that your CV joint boot is split wide open and has been letting the grease out (and contaminants in). You are going to need a new CV joint there very soon (if not already). I thought something was leaking after looking at pic1 (looked greasy and "wet" in the wheel well), but pic9 clearly shows the problem.

you should replace the CV joint if it gets cracked/split. However, you can drive for tens of thousands of miles on a cracked CV boot with no adverse effects.