friction between brass and bronze?

[Jaepheth]

I've been searching through all the tables I can find online, but can't seem to find one that lists a coefficient of friction between brass and bronze.

Does anyone here have access to a more comprehensive table?

The bronze is 841 oil impregnated sintered bronze
Not sure what kind of brass I have.

I'm trying to determine what the best material for a shaft (~1/8" diameter) would be through a bronze bushing: Nickel silver, mild steel, stainless steel, or brass. I would like for brass or nickel silver to work because I was planning on peening the shaft into place, and it'd be a pain to peen steel. However; I only have brass rod in my inventory at the moment, so I'd like to know if that would work well.

My last attempt was to use an acetal bushing, but it got worn out very quickly. (at the bushing/stainless boundry)

Picture:

 

[stargazr]

Brass is pretty soft and will wear quickly with movement over time. Stainless will hold up well. Mild steel would be ok also. I would make the pin slightly larger (0.0005 or less depending on the finishes of the pin and hole) than the hole in the galvanized plate for a light tap fit to hold it in place.

 

[Howard]

What is the application? I try to use ball bearings, mounted or bare, as often as possible.

I have used 304 rod in a bronze bushing with success, although the duty cycle is fairly low.

 

[BladeVenom]

You basically already have a bronze bushing. So steel just seems the natural choice.

 

[Jaepheth]

What is the application? I try to use ball bearings, mounted or bare, as often as possible.

I have used 304 rod in a bronze bushing with success, although the duty cycle is fairly low.

It's a butterfly knife. I was trying to reduce the play in the blade by over drilling the blade's pin holes and inserting a bushing material slightly thicker than the blade itself to more closely match the handle's slot

 

[phucheneh]

You don't want two soft metals. I don't think you'd even want one soft metal, really. All my folding knives are steel pins going through steel frames (and blades, obviously). Copper/brass/bronze is usually just used as washers so that you can tighten any wiggle out of the pivot point without making it hard to open.

 

[Howard]

It's a butterfly knife. I was trying to reduce the play in the blade by over drilling the blade's pin holes and inserting a bushing material slightly thicker than the blade itself to more closely match the handle's slot

Do you have a picture or a diagram?

One way you can reduce play is to replace the shaft or pin with a shoulder screw. The part that spins around the shoulder screw can have the bushing to reduce friction, and a nylock nut or similar device on top of a plastic thrust washer can squeeze it all together.

 

[phucheneh]

Do you have a picture or a diagram?

One way you can reduce play is to replace the shaft or pin with a shoulder screw. The part that spins around the shoulder screw can have the bushing to reduce friction, and a nylock nut or similar device on top of a plastic thrust washer can squeeze it all together.

This may be what I was referring to. Basically, you have a pin that looks a small bolt, but the threads are on the inside? Then a smaller bolt threads inside it?

As I said, that's how all my folders work, and radial play has never been an issue. Just side to side wiggle, which is fixed by snugging the fastener up (and modifying washer thickness if necessary).