Flow advice

[sonicbuddha]

So, I'm a newbie to watercooling and am in the process of assembling my first rig. I've acquired parts but I'm afraid that, despite my efforts, I've put myself in a flow reducing situation and would like some advice before I start to assemble.

I have a:

Swiftech Apogee GTX cpu cooler with 1/2" barbs
Koolance VID-278 (GeForce 8800GT) w/ 1/2" barbs
Asus Maximus Formula SE with 3/8" barbs for the onboard chipset.

The chipset cooler comes with adapters to fit the 1/2" tubing but I assume, since they are only adapters, I'm still getting a flow reduction.

Would it just be wiser to switch everything to 3/8"? Does it matter that much?

Can order improve flow in any way? My plan was to go cpu -> gpu -> chipset -> radiator -> t-line -> reservoir -> pump

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: sonicbuddha
So, I'm a newbie to watercooling and am in the process of assembling my first rig. I've acquired parts but I'm afraid that, despite my efforts, I've put myself in a flow reducing situation and would like some advice before I start to assemble.

I have a:

Swiftech Apogee GTX cpu cooler with 1/2" barbs
Koolance VID-278 (GeForce 8800GT) w/ 1/2" barbs
Asus Maximus Formula SE with 3/8" barbs for the onboard chipset.

The chipset cooler comes with adapters to fit the 1/2" tubing but I assume, since they are only adapters, I'm still getting a flow reduction.

Would it just be wiser to switch everything to 3/8"? Does it matter that much?

Can order improve flow in any way? My plan was to go cpu -> gpu -> chipset -> radiator -> t-line -> reservoir -> pump

Man.. i hate to rain on your parade, but i wouldnt install that gpu block. If possible i would return it and ask for an exchange.

The Koolance block uses Annodized Alu in it, The GTX has mil spec plating over the alu. A bit different, and hence why the GTX is a bit safer, but not totally safe, What form of coolant were you intending on using?

And unless you want to nuke your water with lots of additives, you'll run into corrosion, and later on nightmares.


also 3/8 to 1/2 doesnt impact temps very much. What pump are you running? You should more try to match tube diameter with pump. Meaning if your using a D5, or a swiftech 655, the stock outlet is 1/2. Its going to be almost dayam impossible for you to slip 3/8 tubing on it.

A 355 or a DDC-3.2 will do both 1/2 with custom top and 3/8 stock top.


T-line + 3/8 tubing = NOT RECOMENDED. unless you enjoy not using your computer for at least 48 hours. Thats the average time it takes to bleed such a narrow tubing.

 

[sonicbuddha]

Ok, I hadn't even thought of the aluminum, well, anything. I was planning on using PrimoChill Liquid Utopia with distilled water as the coolant, but, by your reply, it doesn't sound like that would be enough. Since I'm not really clear on what is wrong with the Koolance (or is it the combination of the Koolance and the Swiftech cpu cooler?), m'be you could elaborate some?

The selection of gpu coolers for the 8800 gt are pretty slim. Besides the Koolance, I've seen the EK-FC88 GT, which is copper. It also comes nickel plated, but I thought that a bit over the top. I've just placed my orders so I'm pretty certain that I can make returns. In fact, the same place that sold me the Koolance, so I doubt an exchange would be difficult. Can you make any other suggestions?

As for the pump and tubing, I was going to go with Tygon 3603 Tubing with a 1/2" ID on a Danger Den DD12V-D5 fixed speed pump and use the supplied flow reducers to connect the chipset block. It ads a bit too many potential places for leaks but, hey, what are you gonna do?

 

[sonicbuddha]

I'm almost there, so I thought I'd flesh out what else is in the loop:

Danger Den DD12V-D5 fixed speed pump (1/2") -> Swiftech Apogee GTX cpu cooler (1/2") -> Koolance VID-278 OR EK-FC88 GT (1/2") -> Fusion block on Asus Maximus Formula (3/8") -> Black Ice Xtreme 2 High Performance Radiator (1/2") -> T-line w/ brass plug -> Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir (1/2")

Oh, btw, "rain on my parade"- very punny.

 

[aigomorla]

the ek by far is a much much greater block. Its not even a competition.

Alu + copper in the same loop leads to galvanic corrosion. Also the d-tek is less restrictive if you dont use nozzles. So, its more friendly for multi block loops.

Google galvanic corrosion if you need more info. Baiscally the copper eats away at the alu.

 

[sonicbuddha]

See, I knew I came to the right place. I've been using your guide as my... guide. I seriously appreciate your advice.

So, considering the alu + cu corrosion problem, should I use the nickel plated over the copper EK-FC88 with the Swiftech Apogee GTX? Or switch to a different cpu block? The Swiftech gets high reviews.

I'm sorry, and what do you mean by "d-tek is less restrictive if you dont use nozzles"? Which d-tek?

 

[sonicbuddha]

I'm about to crash (I work nights) but I hope to be able to arrange for an RMA and exchange on my not yet arrived Koolance for the EK tomorrow. One last question, though, is there any real reasonable difference between the Black Ice radiator models? Such as the Black Ice Xtreme 2 High Performance Radiator and the Black Ice Pro 2? Radiators don't seem to be a common subject of reviews.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: sonicbuddha
I'm about to crash (I work nights) but I hope to be able to arrange for an RMA and exchange on my not yet arrived Koolance for the EK tomorrow. One last question, though, is there any real reasonable difference between the Black Ice radiator models? Such as the Black Ice Xtreme 2 High Performance Radiator and the Black Ice Pro 2? Radiators don't seem to be a common subject of reviews.

sorry for the delay in responses.

The waterblock D-tek is the fusion. The GTX was the best block until the nozzles came out. However the performance gain on the nozzles is best seen on a cpu only loop.

The d-tek is a better block if your going multi blocks with a large class radiator because in h2o cooling i talk about head pressure and restrictions in each block. You want to try to preserve as much head pressure as possible, thats why when you loop it, block order only plays at most 3-5C on which block is more important to your cooling.

IE. gamers go gpu first because cpu overclocking does very lilttle in gamess: CPU overclockers like pushing the cpu, so hence cpu comes first.


Thanks for your kind words about my guide. I try hard to set people down the correct path when dealing with water. Water is very expensive, and a lot of people tend to overlook it because of the price. And if you dont know what your settign up correctly, you'll only get headaches.


Radiators:

Current ranking:
Thermchill PA series > MCR series > BlackICE series.


If your trying to preserve budget, get a Swiftech MCR series. There the best in performance/budget class.

Also try to get the largest radiator possible that you can fit on your system. The radiator is the main source in your cooling that transfers heat out of the water.

 

[sonicbuddha]

The fusion block is the chipset cooler built into the motherboard on the Asus Maximus Formula. Its also solid copper, so I'm going to go with the EK-FC88 cu thinking that it couldn't make anything worse. And are you recommending the D-Tek Fluid XP+ Vortex XP? Shadow CPU Water Block over the Swiftech? I'm really beginning to wish I had asked BEFORE buying. Its not a problem to return, I just feel... silly.

As for radiator, I had modded a case a little over a year ago for an older model Black Ice where I cut through the top of the case to combine case ventilation with radiator cooling. Now, doing even a little research, it seems I could have done better on my radiator vendor choice. Switching to Swiftech or Thermchill will require more case cutting (and repainting), but it may be worth it.

BTW, I really appreciate your quick responses; your delay is small in comparison to some forums.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: sonicbuddha
The fusion block is the chipset cooler built into the motherboard on the Asus Maximus Formula. Its also solid copper, so I'm going to go with the EK-FC88 cu thinking that it couldn't make anything worse. And are you recommending the D-Tek Fluid XP+ Vortex XP? Shadow CPU Water Block over the Swiftech? I'm really beginning to wish I had asked BEFORE buying. Its not a problem to return, I just feel... silly.

As for radiator, I had modded a case a little over a year ago for an older model Black Ice where I cut through the top of the case to combine case ventilation with radiator cooling. Now, doing even a little research, it seems I could have done better on my radiator vendor choice. Switching to Swiftech or Thermchill will require more case cutting (and repainting), but it may be worth it.

BTW, I really appreciate your quick responses; your delay is small in comparison to some forums.

dont mention it...

Also you should try xtremesystems.org/forums in the liquid and cooling section. Over there, you'll find tons of experts who sit bored at work just browsing forums.

But i see your shopping at frozencpu.com Can i ask what location as in country your at? Theres places cheaper i can recomend you to.

 

[sonicbuddha]

I'm in California, which, in a way, is its own country.

I've been shopping at http://www.performance-pcs.com and they've been very easy to use. At this point, since I'm doing mostly exchanges, my shopping alternates are slimmer.

I've been messing around with computers for a while now and this is my first brush with premium desktop parts and water cooling. A nice new job helps. I'm enjoying learning a new aspect- thanks for your help. I'll check out xtremesystems.org/forums, too.

Oh, so the D-Tek cpu cooler over the Swiftech, partially due to the cu issue?

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: sonicbuddha
I'm in California, which, in a way, is its own country.

I've been shopping at http://www.performance-pcs.com and they've been very easy to use. At this point, since I'm doing mostly exchanges, my shopping alternates are slimmer.

I've been messing around with computers for a while now and this is my first brush with premium desktop parts and water cooling. A nice new job helps. I'm enjoying learning a new aspect- thanks for your help. I'll check out xtremesystems.org/forums, too.

Oh, so the D-Tek cpu cooler over the Swiftech, partially due to the cu issue?

no that would be on the performance with the nozzle set, and also due to its less restrictive without the nozzles


You might want to check out shoppts.com there located in cali. owners name is alex is absolutely a great guy.

Jab-Tech.com my favorate store. John is a friend of mine. His store has one of the largest collection of fans and h2o equiptment at a competitive prices. My primary store of shopping.

i believe the owners name for performance-pcs is hank. He's also a great guy from what i hear.

 

[sonicbuddha]

Ok, I've finally gotten my RMA for my Koolance and am putting down the dough for the EK-FC88. My question is- is there an issue with nickel? The EK-FC88 comes in copper and nickel, the latter slightly more expensive and more available than the former.

I've seen some waterblocks come with spring screws- are these better for applying tension and less likely to cause breakage?

That and I read something from Swiftech about inducing a "bow" when using their GTX, which should increase performance. How to do that was not outlined. Thoughts?

I did some more shopping and hit up Jab-Tech and, I have to say, they are about the only place I've been that has reasonable shipping rates. I swear some places offer low prices just to bite you on the shipping. I'm glad I went there- thanks!!

 

[sonicbuddha]

A thought occurred to me- should I tape the threads for the fittings to make it more water tight? I haven't seen any mention of that.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: sonicbuddha
A thought occurred to me- should I tape the threads for the fittings to make it more water tight? I haven't seen any mention of that.

sonic if you have little questions like this, its sometimes faster just to pm me.

Nickle will play no role in corrosion with copper in your loop. Actually happens at such a low rate, you probably wont see it for the next 20 or so years.


If your using EK, you dont need any tape on the barbs. The seals work nice on ek barbs with ek blocks.

hope this isnt too late to answer your questions.