Flashlight gurus - looking at Fenix TK41

[jlee]

I have a Fenid PD20 and I like it a lot, but I'm looking for something a bit brighter (with a longer run time) that takes rechargeable batteries. I already have a La Crosse BC700 and some Eneloops, so I'm looking at the TK41. I'm not overly familiar with rechargeable lithium 123 cells, but that could potentially be an option as well.

What say you? ~$100 range preferred (TK41 is $115 at Amazon right now).

 

[MotF Bane]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php

Might find some good help there too.

 

[the DRIZZLE]

I have a Fenid PD20 and I like it a lot, but I'm looking for something a bit brighter (with a longer run time) that takes rechargeable batteries. I already have a La Crosse BC700 and some Eneloops, so I'm looking at the TK41. I'm not overly familiar with rechargeable lithium 123 cells, but that could potentially be an option as well.

What say you? ~$100 range preferred (TK41 is $115 at Amazon right now).

I've been eyeing that for a while but I can't justify the purchase at the moment. Personally I wouldn't buy that light unless I was also going to but an 8 battery charger.

 

[FleshLight]

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-157/JETBeam-BC40-XM-dsh-L-Neutral/Detail

 

[Ms. DICKINSON]

You'll have to convert to something like 18650 batteries. I have so many Eneloops so I can't jump ship yet. I'm running 2xAA on a Cree Q5 from dealextreme. But dinodirect.com has the high power Fenix, good price too.

 

[mugs]

I'd strongly recommend the TK45 instead. Similar output, but the TK41 is a long thrower and the TK45 is more of a flood light. The flood is more useful in more situations.

TK35 is also nice, and cheaper, but it takes 4x 123s. Not worth it to spend $4 on a set of batteries for the TK35 when you can put eneloops in the TK45.

I think the TK35 works with the lithium rechargeables, but I haven't gotten into that stuff yet. Not sure it's worth the fire risk.

 

[jlee]

I've been eyeing that for a while but I can't justify the purchase at the moment. Personally I wouldn't buy that light unless I was also going to but an 8 battery charger.

For now I'll just swap out 4/4 in my charger, but I may buy an 8 battery charger (or another BC700) in the future.

I'd strongly recommend the TK45 instead. Similar output, but the TK41 is a long thrower and the TK45 is more of a flood light. The flood is more useful in more situations.

TK35 is also nice, and cheaper, but it takes 4x 123s. Not worth it to spend $4 on a set of batteries for the TK35 when you can put eneloops in the TK45.

I think the TK35 works with the lithium rechargeables, but I haven't gotten into that stuff yet. Not sure it's worth the fire risk.

Thanks for the tip - you're right, flood would be more useful overall than throw.

 

[squirrel dog]

18650's are better than eneloops?

 

[Rubycon]

18650's are better than eneloops?

Enloop is a brand name of nimh that has better charge retention. Enloops have a nominal terminal voltage at full charge around 1.4V whereas an 18650 has a voltage (off the charger) around 4.2V.

18650 is a size of Li-Ion cell that's very common. You can recover LOTS of 'em from "bad" notebook packs. Usually just one cell goes bad leaving the rest intact. Just measure the terminal voltage. If it's above 3VDC you typically have a good cell that will take a charge and can be used. One word of caution however. 18650s from these packs are direct terminal or "unprotected". What this means is there is no internal protection to deal with a charger problem, over temperature, short circuiting, and over discharge. Be sure your charger is adequate AND when using them in torches there is circuitry designed to work with unprotected cells. Usually this will cause the light to flicker slightly when the cell voltage drops to where it needs to be charged. Over discharging a Li-Ion cell that's unprotected is a good way to kill it.

If this scares you then you can purchase protected 18650s. These will cut power automatically when discharged safely and if shorted or exposed to high temperatures (or become too high while charging). This prevents fires and other possibly dangerous things from happening.

18650s are economical in both forms, have strong output for lighting applications and are rugged enough for outdoor use. Just keep them out of a parked vehicle in summer (or tropical) sun! If they get over 140F they're done! Keep 'em cool and they will last a long time. They also keep a charge for a good while too.

 

[jlee]

Enloop is a brand name of nimh that has better charge retention. Enloops have a nominal terminal voltage at full charge around 1.4V whereas an 18650 has a voltage (off the charger) around 4.2V.

18650 is a size of Li-Ion cell that's very common. You can recover LOTS of 'em from "bad" notebook packs. Usually just one cell goes bad leaving the rest intact. Just measure the terminal voltage. If it's above 3VDC you typically have a good cell that will take a charge and can be used. One word of caution however. 18650s from these packs are direct terminal or "unprotected". What this means is there is no internal protection to deal with a charger problem, over temperature, short circuiting, and over discharge. Be sure your charger is adequate AND when using them in torches there is circuitry designed to work with unprotected cells. Usually this will cause the light to flicker slightly when the cell voltage drops to where it needs to be charged. Over discharging a Li-Ion cell that's unprotected is a good way to kill it.

If this scares you then you can purchase protected 18650s. These will cut power automatically when discharged safely and if shorted or exposed to high temperatures (or become too high while charging). This prevents fires and other possibly dangerous things from happening.

18650s are economical in both forms, have strong output for lighting applications and are rugged enough for outdoor use. Just keep them out of a parked vehicle in summer (or tropical) sun! If they get over 140F they're done! Keep 'em cool and they will last a long time. They also keep a charge for a good while too.

Would you recommend a light that runs on 18650's over one that runs on AA's? I'd have to buy a charger for them, though...not sure what a good one costs.

 

[Rubycon]

Would you recommend a light that runs on 18650's over one that runs on AA's? I'd have to buy a charger for them, though...not sure what a good one costs.

Absolutely. This opens up a new realm in runtime and brightness!

Battery Junction is a popular place to pick up this kind of thing.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/tlunlichfor1.html

They also carry 2600mAh protected 18650s.

 

[CurseTheSky]

I've been toying with the idea of grabbing a "tactical" flashlight, to use when a really good light is needed (searching for my dog, in the woods, in the dark for example). Would you recommend 18650's or CR123's? I'd really prefer something that I can get fairly easily (Amazon) if possible.

 

[jlee]

Absolutely. This opens up a new realm in runtime and brightness!

Battery Junction is a popular place to pick up this kind of thing.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/tlunlichfor1.html

They also carry 2600mAh protected 18650s.

Does that charger automatically stop charging when the batteries are full?

Candlepower forums suggest the Pila charger and AW 18650's. This could get expensive fast.

 

[Rubycon]

Yes I have several of those and they work with unprotected cells too. The light flashes green-red rapidly when cell is in place. When a discharged cell is inserted it glows red. When the charge completes the LED glows green.

Pilas are nice but expensive. I do have them (nearly 10 years old!) that I use in my surefire L4 and they still work well. They are lower voltage (3.8V) and don't last as long per charge as the 18650. 18650s don't fit in the L4 tube though. They are just ever so slightly too fat. Aftermarket tubes are made that allow this and you can have the tube turned (lose the chemkote though!), but I never made any changes. I have a lot of lights but have not "kept up with the Joneses" like the CPF guys and gals.

My latest (large) light is a Olight SR90. I also like my EagleTac lights. A pair of 18650s and 750 lumens on high (five settings accessible via rotary ring) make it a popular and not so cumbersome semi-EDC light. For LEO work it would be a very nice replacement for a mag light. (but don't retire your club!)

Since I have access to notebook battery packs I recover the 18650s from them and have LOTs of 'em at my disposal. If a cell acts up it goes to the recycle bin.

 

[jlee]

I've been toying with the idea of grabbing a "tactical" flashlight, to use when a really good light is needed (searching for my dog, in the woods, in the dark for example). Would you recommend 18650's or CR123's? I'd really prefer something that I can get fairly easily (Amazon) if possible.

I have this light and I really like it...it's incredibly bright for being so small (3" long), but I want something that's silly bright and will last longer.

I think 18650's are essentially two CR123's combined in a rechargeable cell.

 

[Rubycon]

I have this light and I really like it...it's incredibly bright for being so small (3" long), but I want something that's silly bright and will last longer.

I think 18650's are essentially two CR123's combined in a rechargeable cell.

Physical size, yes. Two CR123s in series provides you with 7.6/8.4V at half the capacity of 18650 at 3.7/4.2V. If the light is designed to run off the lower voltage an 18650 is always better as the primary source. If you lose/blow a cell then a pair of primary 123s (6V) is a good back up in survival mode.

Step up to the TK35 and you will be amazed at the brightness/throw.

 

[jlee]

Yes I have several of those and they work with unprotected cells too. The light flashes green-red rapidly when cell is in place. When a discharged cell is inserted it glows red. When the charge completes the LED glows green.

Pilas are nice but expensive. I do have them (nearly 10 years old!) that I use in my surefire L4 and they still work well. They are lower voltage (3.8V) and don't last as long per charge as the 18650. 18650s don't fit in the L4 tube though. They are just ever so slightly too fat. Aftermarket tubes are made that allow this and you can have the tube turned (lose the chemkote though!), but I never made any changes. I have a lot of lights but have not "kept up with the Joneses" like the CPF guys and gals.

My latest (large) light is a Olight SR90. I also like my EagleTac lights. A pair of 18650s and 750 lumens on high (five settings accessible via rotary ring) make it a popular and not so cumbersome semi-EDC light. For LEO work it would be a very nice replacement for a mag light. (but don't retire your club!)

Since I have access to notebook battery packs I recover the 18650s from them and have LOTs of 'em at my disposal. If a cell acts up it goes to the recycle bin.

Heh, an SR90 would be pretty awesome, but it's just a tad out of my price range.

I found the EagleTac T20C2, but I noticed one of the reviews said it wouldn't work with his 18650's.

 

[jlee]

Physical size, yes. Two CR123s in series provides you with 7.6/8.4V at half the capacity of 18650 at 3.7/4.2V. If the light is designed to run off the lower voltage an 18650 is always better as the primary source. If you lose/blow a cell than a pair of primary 123s (6V) is a good back up in survival mode.

Step up to the TK35 and you will be amazed at the brightness/throw.

TK35 with the above linked charger, and protected 18650's from BatteryJunction would do okay for a while, then? I don't have notebook batteries to disassemble, so if something dies I'll have to replace it.

 

[Rubycon]

I found the EagleTac T20C2, but I noticed one of the reviews said it wouldn't work with his 18650's.

Not familiar with that one but it should work with 18650s.

They last a while if you take care of 'em!

Try not to get them wet. They really don't like that. Especially sea water.

 

[jlee]

Not familiar with that one but it should work with 18650s.

They last a while if you take care of 'em!

Try not to get them wet. They really don't like that. Especially sea water.

That shouldn't be too much of a problem here, at least not for most of the year.

Leaning towards the TK35 at the moment - just have to decide on batteries. I have $20 in Amazon gift cards burning a hole in my pocket, as well as $40.xx in American Express points..so it's basically half off.

Seems that charger can also charge RCR123's...any reason I couldn't pick up a couple of those for my other lights?

 

[Rubycon]

I have the EagleTac M2SC4. Don't know if it's still available. The TK35 should have a similar beam profile/brightness. I love the tint of the M2SC4 (or at least the one I have). It's literally like sunlight coming out of a can!

 

[RGUN]

Heh, an SR90 would be pretty awesome, but it's just a tad out of my price range.

I found the EagleTac T20C2, but I noticed one of the reviews said it wouldn't work with his 18650's.

I have an that EagleTac light with the XM-L led. It works with the 18650 that I bought with it (which is eagletac branded).

Very happy with it, super bright, although yesterday it was having trouble starting in normal mode and I had to turn it to turbo to turn it on.

 

[Pia]

I've been toying with the idea of grabbing a "tactical" flashlight, to use when a really good light is needed (searching for my dog, in the woods, in the dark for example). Would you recommend 18650's or CR123's? I'd really prefer something that I can get fairly easily (Amazon) if possible.

4Sevens is a very similar manufacturer to Fenix. They have free shipping.

http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_429

I have the Quark 123^2 "X" Tactical model. Great size/power ratio (a lot smaller than comparable Fenix models), disappears into pocket.

- "Regular"/Tactical: regular Quarks offer easy access to all light modes. The Tacticals give you reliable and instant access to two modes of your choice, reprogramming takes 15 seconds or so. For me, it's max power for emergencies, and lowest power so I don't disturb anyone in a dark environment by having to go through a high-power mode.
- Turbo model gives a lot more brightness and throw at the cost of a little more bulk. Would still be fine in a jacket pocket.
- The Maelstrom series is bulkier than the Quark, fits rechargeable batteries whereas Quarks only take 123 or AA, has weaponswitch accessories etc.
- Non-rechargeable 123's hold their charge reliably for a very long time, are more powerful than rechargeables and enable the flashlight to be smaller. Rechargeables' only point is cost saving. I would only consider them if the light sees a *ton* of use.

 

[jlee]

4Sevens is a very similar manufacturer to Fenix. They have free shipping.

http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_429

I have the Quark 123^2 "X" Tactical model. Great size/power ratio (a lot smaller than comparable Fenix models), disappears into pocket.

- "Regular"/Tactical: regular Quarks offer easy access to all light modes. The Tacticals give you reliable and instant access to two modes of your choice, reprogramming takes 15 seconds or so. For me, it's max power for emergencies, and lowest power so I don't disturb anyone in a dark environment by having to go through a high-power mode.
- Turbo model gives a lot more brightness and throw at the cost of a little more bulk. Would still be fine in a jacket pocket.
- The Maelstrom series is bulkier than the Quark, fits rechargeable batteries whereas Quarks only take 123 or AA, has weaponswitch accessories etc.
- Non-rechargeable 123's hold their charge reliably for a very long time, are more powerful than rechargeables and enable the flashlight to be smaller. Rechargeables' only point is cost saving. I would only consider them if the light sees a *ton* of use.

Thanks - I'll look into them. This will be externally carried on a duty belt, so size is not a concern (unless we're talking larger than a D-cell Maglite).

 

[shortylickens]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php?