Fixing up some wood siding

[Howard]

http://www.rootminus1.com/howa...ixerupper/IMG_1313.JPG
http://www.rootminus1.com/howa...ixerupper/IMG_1316.JPG
http://www.rootminus1.com/howa...ixerupper/IMG_1317.JPG
http://www.rootminus1.com/howa...ixerupper/IMG_1318.JPG
http://www.rootminus1.com/howa...ixerupper/IMG_1319.JPG

My game plan:

1) Go shopping for lumber, oil-based primer, acrylic latex paint, nails
2) Rip out trim boards
3) Scrape/sand off paint on the back panels and sand off some of the weathered top surface, tack cloth clean
4) Cut new boards to length with miter saw and scuff with sandpaper, tack cloth clean
5) Nail boards in place either by hand (maybe with a brad nailer if I can get my air compressor - are brad nails suitable for this type of work?)
6) Fill nail holes with drywall spackle
7) Prime everything
8) Paint everything

If I find that I have caulk that can be painted, I'll probably caulk whatever needs to be caulked in between 7) and 8), otherwise I'd do it after 8).

What's wrong with this picture?

 

[richardycc]

doesnt look too bad, you might be able to just power wash the paint off, spackle, prime and repaint it.

 

[bctbct]

You are pretty much on the right track. Thin your oil primer so it sucks into the wood and prime all surfaces(backside).

GL matching the trim, that might be difficult and you may have to have it milled.

Use galv. nails or they will rust, most brads for guns are galv, but not warranteed for rust since they are made from wire and the clipped ends remove the galv coating. I have never had any problems though.

I use caulk for nail holes, spackle will not perform well outside.

Tack cloth is not necessary, dust w/ old paint brush. Redwood or cypress will perform better but cost more.

I wouldnt spend a whole lot of money because looking at it it looks like in a few years you will have to do a major overhaul.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

Better check for water damage on the corner post. Are there no rain gutters?

 

[iRONic]

Originally posted by: MagnusTheBrewer
Better check for water damage on the corner post. Are there no rain gutters?

Yup. I have a feeling you're not going to like what you see behind that damaged stuff.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: MagnusTheBrewer
Better check for water damage on the corner post. Are there no rain gutters?

There are, but I think they're clogged.

This is my friend's place (more than 50 years old, I might add) and she hasn't had any repairs done at all. You don't want to look inside.

 

[Safeway]

That siding looks like shit. mainly the flaking paint. Good luck.

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: bctbct
You are pretty much on the right track. Thin your oil primer so it sucks into the wood and prime all surfaces(backside).

GL matching the trim, that might be difficult and you may have to have it milled.

Use galv. nails or they will rust, most brads for guns are galv, but not warranteed for rust since they are made from wire and the clipped ends remove the galv coating. I have never had any problems though.

I use caulk for nail holes, spackle will not perform well outside.

Tack cloth is not necessary, dust w/ old paint brush. Redwood or cypress will perform better but cost more.

I wouldnt spend a whole lot of money because looking at it it looks like in a few years you will have to do a major overhaul.

:thumbsup:

Matching that molding might be tough. You might want to scrape the shaped molding, apply a "wood hardener", remove what can't be salvaged and fill with "high performance" wood filler (rated for use outside).

Unless you're willing to do some wholesale demolition, so it doesn't look like a patch job.

 

[Greenman]

My guess is that you will find problems beyond what can be seen in those pics.

And one thing left out of your sequence of events is building paper, make sure the existing tar paper is in good shape (it won't be) and patch as necessary.

 

[Howard]

Paper?

Why would I need to match it? I was planning on getting something similar but not exactly the same.

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: bctbct
You are pretty much on the right track. Thin your oil primer so it sucks into the wood and prime all surfaces(backside).

GL matching the trim, that might be difficult and you may have to have it milled.

Use galv. nails or they will rust, most brads for guns are galv, but not warranteed for rust since they are made from wire and the clipped ends remove the galv coating. I have never had any problems though.

I use caulk for nail holes, spackle will not perform well outside.

Tack cloth is not necessary, dust w/ old paint brush. Redwood or cypress will perform better but cost more.

I wouldnt spend a whole lot of money because looking at it it looks like in a few years you will have to do a major overhaul.

:thumbsup:

Matching that molding might be tough. You might want to scrape the shaped molding, apply a "wood hardener", remove what can't be salvaged and fill with "high performance" wood filler (rated for use outside).
Unless you're willing to do some wholesale demolition, so it doesn't look like a patch job.

Thats probably the best answer. Less work and cheaper.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: bctbct

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: bctbct
You are pretty much on the right track. Thin your oil primer so it sucks into the wood and prime all surfaces(backside).

GL matching the trim, that might be difficult and you may have to have it milled.

Use galv. nails or they will rust, most brads for guns are galv, but not warranteed for rust since they are made from wire and the clipped ends remove the galv coating. I have never had any problems though.

I use caulk for nail holes, spackle will not perform well outside.

Tack cloth is not necessary, dust w/ old paint brush. Redwood or cypress will perform better but cost more.

I wouldnt spend a whole lot of money because looking at it it looks like in a few years you will have to do a major overhaul.

:thumbsup:

Matching that molding might be tough. You might want to scrape the shaped molding, apply a "wood hardener", remove what can't be salvaged and fill with "high performance" wood filler (rated for use outside).
Unless you're willing to do some wholesale demolition, so it doesn't look like a patch job.

Thats probably the best answer. Less work and cheaper.

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

 

[Greenman]

Originally posted by: Howard
Paper?

Why would I need to match it? I was planning on getting something similar but not exactly the same.

Yes paper. Under the siding is a layer of tar paper, thats what keeps moisture from getting into the framing. If said tar paper is torn you need to repair it. Don't skip this step.

 

[Rogodin2]

Why are you using solution for free?

You should know better hooward.

Rogo

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: Howard

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

After the paint peels off wood it's open to rot. The hardener is kinda of a cross between a varnish and a plastic to stabilize the wood, but it's not magic. If the wood is so soft that you can push your finger into like butter, then it's not salvageable. Dig that part out with a screwdriver or butter knife and just fill it in with the wood filler. It'll kinda be like doing body work on a car. Now this only applies to the molding, the flat stock isn't worth fixing unless it's under the molding and you think you'll destroy the molding trying to get to it.

Don't even try to work on any of this wood until it's dry. A lot of the time water will get soaked up into it behind the paint and the paint will shade the wood to keep it from drying. Brushing off the old paint with a wire brush and heating it with a heat gun might be needed.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

After the paint peels off wood it's open to rot. The hardener is kinda of a cross between a varnish and a plastic to stabilize the wood, but it's not magic. If the wood is so soft that you can push your finger into like butter, then it's not salvageable. Dig that part out with a screwdriver or butter knife and just fill it in with the wood filler. It'll kinda be like doing body work on a car. Now this only applies to the molding, the flat stock isn't worth fixing unless it's under the molding and you think you'll destroy the molding trying to get to it.

Don't even try to work on any of this wood until it's dry. A lot of the time water will get soaked up into it behind the paint and the paint will shade the wood to keep it from drying. Brushing off the old paint with a wire brush and heating it with a heat gun might be needed.

And the reason to do this over pulling off the trim is because the new boards might not match?

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: Greenman

Originally posted by: Howard
Paper?

Why would I need to match it? I was planning on getting something similar but not exactly the same.

Yes paper. Under the siding is a layer of tar paper, thats what keeps moisture from getting into the framing. If said tar paper is torn you need to repair it. Don't skip this step.

I wasn't planning on taking off the back panels; I'll see if I can access it from the inside.

I know of tar paper, just didn't think it would be used here. I'm not that familiar with house construction.

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

After the paint peels off wood it's open to rot. The hardener is kinda of a cross between a varnish and a plastic to stabilize the wood, but it's not magic. If the wood is so soft that you can push your finger into like butter, then it's not salvageable. Dig that part out with a screwdriver or butter knife and just fill it in with the wood filler. It'll kinda be like doing body work on a car. Now this only applies to the molding, the flat stock isn't worth fixing unless it's under the molding and you think you'll destroy the molding trying to get to it.

Don't even try to work on any of this wood until it's dry. A lot of the time water will get soaked up into it behind the paint and the paint will shade the wood to keep it from drying. Brushing off the old paint with a wire brush and heating it with a heat gun might be needed.

And the reason to do this over pulling off the trim is because the new boards might not match?

Yes, that would be the only reason.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

After the paint peels off wood it's open to rot. The hardener is kinda of a cross between a varnish and a plastic to stabilize the wood, but it's not magic. If the wood is so soft that you can push your finger into like butter, then it's not salvageable. Dig that part out with a screwdriver or butter knife and just fill it in with the wood filler. It'll kinda be like doing body work on a car. Now this only applies to the molding, the flat stock isn't worth fixing unless it's under the molding and you think you'll destroy the molding trying to get to it.

Don't even try to work on any of this wood until it's dry. A lot of the time water will get soaked up into it behind the paint and the paint will shade the wood to keep it from drying. Brushing off the old paint with a wire brush and heating it with a heat gun might be needed.

And the reason to do this over pulling off the trim is because the new boards might not match?

Yes, that would be the only reason.

I don't understand why it would have to match, if we're taking off all the trim boards.

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

After the paint peels off wood it's open to rot. The hardener is kinda of a cross between a varnish and a plastic to stabilize the wood, but it's not magic. If the wood is so soft that you can push your finger into like butter, then it's not salvageable. Dig that part out with a screwdriver or butter knife and just fill it in with the wood filler. It'll kinda be like doing body work on a car. Now this only applies to the molding, the flat stock isn't worth fixing unless it's under the molding and you think you'll destroy the molding trying to get to it.

Don't even try to work on any of this wood until it's dry. A lot of the time water will get soaked up into it behind the paint and the paint will shade the wood to keep it from drying. Brushing off the old paint with a wire brush and heating it with a heat gun might be needed.

And the reason to do this over pulling off the trim is because the new boards might not match?

Yes, that would be the only reason.

I don't understand why it would have to match, if we're taking off all the trim boards.

There are no adjoining areas that are being left intact? Then go for it.

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: Howard

Alright.

What did you mean "remove what can't be salvaged"?

After the paint peels off wood it's open to rot. The hardener is kinda of a cross between a varnish and a plastic to stabilize the wood, but it's not magic. If the wood is so soft that you can push your finger into like butter, then it's not salvageable. Dig that part out with a screwdriver or butter knife and just fill it in with the wood filler. It'll kinda be like doing body work on a car. Now this only applies to the molding, the flat stock isn't worth fixing unless it's under the molding and you think you'll destroy the molding trying to get to it.

Don't even try to work on any of this wood until it's dry. A lot of the time water will get soaked up into it behind the paint and the paint will shade the wood to keep it from drying. Brushing off the old paint with a wire brush and heating it with a heat gun might be needed.

And the reason to do this over pulling off the trim is because the new boards might not match?

Yes, that would be the only reason.

I don't understand why it would have to match, if we're taking off all the trim boards.

There are no adjoining areas that are being left intact? Then go for it.

Oh, ok.

 

[Howard]

I pulled off one of the backing boards and there are fiberglass insulation behind it. No vapor barrier or anything. Is this right?

 

[Howard]

What's the best way to fix something like that, if necessary?

 

[Squisher]

The vapor barrier goes on the warm side. So it should be on the far side of that insulation between the insulation and the drywall/plaster inside the house.

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

there should have been tyvek or tar paper between the siding and the sheathing/studs. If not, there is a high probability of moisture infiltration.