Fixing really scratched CD's -- Sandpaper?

[Chu]

Hello all. I have one CD in my collection that looks like it was dragged behind a truck. I tried the brasso routine, and it helped a ton, but it still has too many C2 errors to do a proper rip.

I was thinking, what about sandpaper? With my CPU Coolers and Circuit Boards, I usually give them a once over with 320 grit, then 400 grit sandpaper to get them nice and shiny. Would the same thing work on CD's?

-Chu

 

[cmdrdredd]

no you'd rip the protective coating right off and make it dead for sure. I'd try one of those GameDoctor or CDDoctor things that locak Video Game stores sell. Electronics Boutique and Gamestop/Babbages and Best Buy sell them for about $30. It really works, but with your situation it may not. Still worth it because it saved more than one of my DVDs.

 

[LostHiWay]

This may sound crazy but it does work.

Put them in boiling water for about 2 or 3 mins. After that dry them off and they should play fine unless the scratches are really deep

 

[RemyCanad]

I have access to a 1000 dollar CD repair machine. With it I have been able to fix a CD that had intentional scratches from some ones key.

As far as sand paper goes I would say no. (I would use 2000 grit minimum anyways )

 

[m1ke101]

you're not serious about the boiling water thing are you?

 

[LostHiWay]

Originally posted by: m1ke101
you're not serious about the boiling water thing are you?

Yep I'm serious. They won't melt. I've done it several times with CD's and DVD's

 

[SemperFi]

Originally posted by: LostHiWay

Originally posted by: m1ke101
you're not serious about the boiling water thing are you?

Yep I'm serious. They won't melt. I've done it several times with CD's and DVD's

I wouldn't be afraid of the cd melting. I would be worried about the reflective layer seperating from the plastic. Especially on those cheap cds.

 

[Vinny N]

Originally posted by: Chu
Hello all. I have one CD in my collection that looks like it was dragged behind a truck. I tried the brasso routine, and it helped a ton, but it still has too many C2 errors to do a proper rip.

I was thinking, what about sandpaper? With my CPU Coolers and Circuit Boards, I usually give them a once over with 320 grit, then 400 grit sandpaper to get them nice and shiny. Would the same thing work on CD's?

-Chu

Proper rip, no. But how about an old school analog recording at 1x?

If it plays fine, I would just record it with a program.

How important is the CD to you? I would do an analog recording before trying any method of repairing it, just in case the repair doesn't go so well

 

[Chu]

>> How important is the CD to you? I would do an analog recording before trying any method of repairing it, just in case the repair doesn't go so well

It's not that important, it is just I'd rather not have to rebuy it. The thing is though, it is not just ONE cd. I'm in the process of ripping my entire collection, and about 20 CD's didn't survive the trip through time too well. That's a huge replacement cost.

Also, from expirence, EAC in any of its advanced ripping modes does a better rip of bad CD's then the "analogue hole" method, although it certainly does take its sweet time. These CD's go down to 0.1x in some sections trying to get the most accurate rip.

-Chu

 

[Chu]

>> I wouldn't be afraid of the cd melting. I would be worried about the reflective layer seperating from the plastic. Especially on those cheap cds.

Hrmmmmmmmmmmm . . . Well . . . What holds these layers together?

I mean, for example, when I got my first electric guitar, I carried it home from guitar center when it was something like 20 degrees outside. First thing I did when I got home? I took it out. Well wood expands faster then enamel . . . You can imagine what happened. I really don't want a similar expience with my CD's, though I imagine I could try "Steaming" them, or bring it to a boil, then letting it cool down naturally could avoid said problem.

-Chu

 

[Vinny N]

Originally posted by: LostHiWay
This may sound crazy but it does work.

Put them in boiling water for about 2 or 3 mins. After that dry them off and they should play fine unless the scratches are really deep

handy trick for sometimes fixing ping pong balls too.

 

[FrustratedUser]

Thin layer of clear coat and then polish?