Originally posted by: funkymatt
It looks like the 2nd to last lead on the back of the card chipped off, the card is not recognized by the computer at all now. would a dab of solder fix something like this? It's a really fine area to be working on, im not sure if im skilled nough to do this myself. any tips?
PICTAR
Originally posted by: funkymatt
It looks like the 2nd to last lead on the back of the card chipped off, the card is not recognized by the computer at all now. would a dab of solder fix something like this? It's a really fine area to be working on, im not sure if im skilled nough to do this myself. any tips?
PICTAR
Learn to spell.Originally posted by: Googer
Alternativly, if you know your schmatics; you could solder a jumper from the trace on the AGP card directly to the motherboard. Just be sure to put an electrical connector in the middle of the wire so that you can remove the card in the future. A 2 or 3 pin fan connector would be ideal
Originally posted by: SickBeast
I agree with the conductive paint idea. Just make sure to mask the other leads.
Originally posted by: Googer
Not the one that I had in mind, but it will work.
http://www.speedy3d.com/reviews/hspc_xpunlockingkit/index.shtml
Originally posted by: Jeff7
Well, going on the soldering idea - solder a whole AGP lead directly over the existing one. The wide area of the existing partial pad would provide an adhesion surface for the solder, while the thin strip would hang down to make contact in the AGP slot.
You might want to use a tiny tiny dab of superglue in behind the thin part of the strip, because it might be prone to deform when pressed into the slot. The superglue might work to hold it in place.
This is all very fine work though. You'd need a steady hand. And if you use superglue, use care not to get any on the surrounding contacts.
Learn to spell.Originally posted by: Googer
Alternativly, if you know your schmatics; you could solder a jumper from the trace on the AGP card directly to the motherboard. Just be sure to put an electrical connector in the middle of the wire so that you can remove the card in the future. A 2 or 3 pin fan connector would be ideal
One thing to watch here might be timings - while this may work, it's possible that the longer wire could slightly alter the signal timing and cause glitches with the card.
That, or the trace-drawing method. How strong and solid are those traces? They'd have to be made very thin on both dimensions so that the trace won't get squished flat by the pressure of the AGP slot's pins, and of course thin enough so that it won't short out to the other connectors. But it also must be strong enough so that it can simply survive being pressed into the slot.
Originally posted by: bruceb
You need something like this:
http://www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?id=7
Or get an old pcb with the same size edge connector and peel it off.
Then place it on the broken board with a Very Thin layer of Epoxy
and solder it to where it broke off .. It can be done if you know what
you are doing, use a magnifier, tweezers, xacto knife, static safe
work mat / station and static safe soldering iron
Originally posted by: Googer
Originally posted by: bruceb
You need something like this:
http://www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?id=7
Or get an old pcb with the same size edge connector and peel it off.
Then place it on the broken board with a Very Thin layer of Epoxy
and solder it to where it broke off .. It can be done if you know what
you are doing, use a magnifier, tweezers, xacto knife, static safe
work mat / station and static safe soldering iron
Bad link! Instead tell us the name of the product.
Thanks!